Daily Life in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Great Gift Ideas for the far away little loved ones

My dad (Big G) and stepmom (Granny Lola) found some really cute stuff for the Canadoca for Christmas this year. One item was her own little teddy bear wheely luggage (soon to be seen being lugged through an airport near you - um, no actually. It's not meant for the kind of travel we do. But it's fun and the Canadoca loves it!). Another, which is a great idea for all grandparents far away from their grandkids - Record a Story.

This little book has my dad's voice trapped inside of it, reading Twas the Night Before Christmas to the Canadoca personally, as she turns the pages! It's so cute. I cried and cried and cried when she opened it. I am really turning into a wimp.

Record a Story has a few other titles too, a book called "Guess How Much I Miss You" and Dora and Sesame Street as well. Check out their web site here.

 

Want to Take a Course on Brazilian Culture?

I think I certainly should! In fact, I'm strongly considering it. Click here to link to the full story from the Gringo Times but the gist of it is that Lagoa's Casa do Saber is launching a ‘Brazil For Beginners’ course. It runs evenings, starting October 14th, and will cover subjects such as . I'm sure it will be R$360 well spent. Click here for the course page on Casa do Saber's site.

Rio Reinvented?

Much has been written in the media lately about Rio being reinvented, particularly with the Olympics and World Cup coming. When I am asked about the current state of Rio I am always hesitant to answer. I realize that my answer is totally dependent on my experiences there, which are in no way representative of what is going on in the city as a whole. We've been in Rio for over two years. Touch wood, we have not had any "incidents" happen to us, a few near-misses, sure, but nothing major. My opinion of Rio's current security state is largely dependent on this continuing to be true.

I also realize that after living in the big city for as long as we have, we've become hardened to certain things, again, we are not objective.

Nevertheless, in true Brazilian fashion, I will still offer an opinion! I do think that Rio is changing for the better, and it is being cleaned up. I hear about less incidents of horrendous crime, the drive to the airport doesn't seem to scare my guests the same way it used to before the "walls" along the road went up, and I feel safer overall. Maybe it's the Polyanna in me, who knows.

Smithsonian magazine put out an interesting article on Rio's reinvention this month, check it out here. It talks about the opportunity Rio currently has to repair itself, and the hows and whos, shortcuts and challenges of getting Rio "there". 

On the other hand, an interesting quote from a piece The Guardian put out on the recent gunfight at the Intercontinental Hotel in Sao Conrado:

"We have been sharing in the illusion that Rio is entering another chapter, turning the page on the horror," he said. "But this shows that the pacification units are merely islands of excellence in an ocean of barbarity that is very much alive." 

My only comment on this incident is that since living in Rio I have not heard of a single incident of a tourist being killed here, though I have heard of SEVERAL meeting such unfortunate fates in countries such as Mexico. Yet people seem to have no fear of going there, but Rio is terrifying to them. Strange. Apparently this incident was enough to scare off the stars of Twilight from filming in Rio!

Anyway! I think I have been sharing in the illusion, too. I have relaxed, about a lot of things. Or maybe just become lazy?  Maybe I have changed.

What do you think? Is Rio getting safer? Has it changed?

 

How to Justify Airfare Home: The Price of Kids' Stuff in Brazil

Because it would only take buying a few items back home rather than here to pay for your airfare. No wonder so many Brazilians hit Miami for shopping... meu deus! Mr. DRL will be in the US and already has a ton of stuff waiting for him at the hotel that he is bringing back with him (yes I warned him and sent empty suitcases).

Lately there have been a number of articles and studies put out about the exorbitant cost of living here in Rio, these examples highlight it as well. If you are moving to Rio, these are things you need to think about. 

These are just a few things that I saw while out and about this week that I felt the need to price-compare as examples for you. By the way I'm not searching for the lowest prices online, I'm just using Amazon, and xe to convert today's exchange rate. I would also like to mention that it is significant that some of these items are even AVAILABLE here now, as many of them weren't as recently as a few months ago. 

Anyway - here we go:

 
 

At a drugstore - the MAM Bite & Brush teether. R$24.90. Today that's $14.08 US.

The same product on Amazon:

Next up:

 
This is a Fisher price Rainforest play mat - the price tag is pretty clear though $R329.50. Which is US $185.69 today. Or you could buy it on Amazon and save yourself ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS.....

At this rate you might even be able to justify first class airfare...

Next up, the bumbo chair.

 
See for yourself, it's R$212 here, which is US $114. Only triple the price in the states.

Sling:

 
The same Munchkin Jelly Bean sling... here it's US $112.70 today, or on Amazon below for less than a quarter of the price.

So, this is why it is always always always worth the extra $100 or so for an extra piece of luggage. It quickly pays for itself.

The Rio Bucket List

Maybe it's the fact that so many people are abandoning me leaving Rio these days, or that Mr. DRL and are starting to think about a "departure schedule" of our own (we are currently here indefinitely as he's an employee of a company here, not on contract), but I've become a bit more urgent lately about doing some of the things we've been meaning to do since arriving here but haven't gotten around to. Time FLIES. So we're trying those new restaurants rather than visiting old favorites, and in the past couple of weeks we've visited Visconde de Maua and took in the Rio Feira Antigo (blog posts with tons of pics coming soon on both of those little adventures).  I've even resumed taking Portuguese lessons!

It's funny, 90% of the people who were at the Canadoca's baby shower just over a year ago have since left Rio. Most were not planning to leave so soon.

In talking with those who have repatriated, many have regrets on how they spent their time here and wished they had appreciated more of the lifestyle and taken the time to see and do more. In many cases it is those who were unhappiest while here who miss it the most.

So, I've started a bit of a Rio Bucket List - things to do before we peace out (in approximately 18 months, mais ou menos). Any suggestions of what should be on it that I may have missed?

No Canada Day!

Well you saw my post a couple of days ago about the cute little Canada goose and now I will post about a little bit of good old fashioned Canadian shame! Every year on Canada day since we've come down here I've read about celebrations other expats have with their consulates and embassies in other cities (street hockey tournaments and the like) and thought wow that would be fun. A couple of years ago, the consulate offered to buy Canadians dessert if they came out to a luncheon, this year when I inquired I was told that there is absolutely nothing planned in terms of Canada Day celebrations in Rio. Sad!

So what's an expat to do? I'll dress the Canadoca up in one of her Canada shirts, sing the anthem, break out the maple syrup and..... maybe watch some Rick Mercer reruns.

Notes from Readers

I receive emails daily from readers of this blog. I really appreciate it all! Yes, even the ones that criticize the blog. For they too have their purpose...

This email in particular I wished to share with my readers, (its author OK'd it).

Trying to better understand Brazil, its culture and its citizens is a huge part of my journey. Emails like this help. So without further adieu...

"As I said in my commentary I found your blog on the site expat-blog. I was searching information about Canada (what a coincidence!), I study architecture at university and I’ve read somewhere that in Canada, as in Brazil, there is a huge market of work for people in my area (architecture/engineering). So that’s why I have interest in move for Canada. I was thinking if I should or not send this e-mail to you, but I decided it isn’t a big deal, if I had a blog I’d love to receive some of my readers.

Foremost I’d like to introduce myself, my name is X (18) and I study English for few years (about 3), so be tolerant with my English. I’ve read all your blog since the first post, and some comments of the visitors in the most “polemic” ones, I’m happy because I understood around 70% of everything you wrote. Of course I didn’t agree with every single opinion of yours, but I think you were very fair and exact in the most of the things you said, and that’s something very rare for a foreign – I say this by self experience. I “worked” as a volunteer in an Interchange company called AFS. For me it would be a good way to improve my English skills and make a kind of cultural share, I also hosted a boy from Germany for one year (the worst experience in my whole life). I can say I talked with many kind of people from many countries: Sweden, Canada, Australia, Germany, Italy, France, Indonesia, Iceland etc. Talk with them about Brazil was a frustrating experience, it was the same stereotyped vision (I’m truly tired of this), I think they weren’t mature enough for an experience like that.

In one of your posts you said something about Brazilians be very negative with their own country, I think it is absolutely true (with some exceptions), I usually say the patriotism of Brazilians is limited to football, for sure it is the only thing Brazil is 100% good in the world. It is very easy understand why Brazilians are very negative with Brazil. We see the problems of Brazil every day on TV: corruption, urban violence, drugs, pollution etc, add to this the fact of really few people say good things about Brazil, so it created a culture of “complaint”, people sit on their chairs in front of the TV, or in bar, hear the problematic news and just shake their heads (the most of times rolling their eyes) and say: “Oh, it just happens in Brazil, in a developed country it would never happens” or worst “This country isn’t a serious country… tsc tsc”, well, in my opinion it is the most typical Brazilian, and it is the type of Brazilians that Brazil doesn’t need. The most of people here ignores the situation of our “neighbors” in South America, mostly of them with a worst situation than Brazil. My uncle works in a oil company, he lived in Angola (also speaks Portuguese) for two months, and he said he looks different for the Brazilian poverty after know the real poverty there, the favelas in Brazil are bad, but I dare to say it is a better situation than the mostly slums in Africa and India, for exemple, here the favelas has a small (but present) structure, with sidewalks, small hospitals, schools, a modest trade, lan houses and also banks (the example in the bank Bradesco in the Heliópolis favela, São Paulo)! While in the other countries they literally lives over their garbage. I can be wrong, but it is how I think.

It’s difficult be proud of Brazil (and it is not my case, I love my country and I know the exact position of Brazil in the world) when the people has the addiction of say bad things about the country, minimizing the good things and maximizing the problems. Many Brazilians has the puerile fantasy that the other countries in the world, specially Europe and North America are just perfect, and the wrong/bad things just happens in Brazil. We know that’s not true, I visited Portugal and I were really impressed with the newspapers, it could be perfectly a Brazilian newspaper, the same things: corruption, violence, poverty etc (in Portugal 18% – data of 2009 – of the population lives in misery, something difficult to understand, Portugal is member of EU). The corruption in Italy is the same or bigger than in Brazil, but nobody knows about it, right? We think Brazil is a very corrupted country (I’m not saying it isn’t true) because the people know it, the newspapers say the “secret” cases all the time, and in my opinion this freedom of expression is one of the positive things in Brazil. Some people say: “Oh, in the government of Lula there was much corruption”, I simply don’t agree, the difference of the Lula’s government and the government of the previous president (Fernando Henrique Cardoso) was because in Lula’s time we knew all the cases, while in the other government many of the news were censured or hidden. Your father said the drivers here are mad, well in Italy is twice worst, and Italy is a developed country.

In beginning I didn’t agree of Rio hosts the Olympic Games in 2016, for the same reasons of all people that were against: favela. Slums are the most shaming thing for me about Brazil, but now I’m 100% into the idea of those games here, and I totally agree with Lula when he said those games could make better the low self-confidence of the Brazilian people and their relationship with the nation. I am very impressed with all the projects for Rio, that goes beyond the stadiums and arenas. The security project let me with my mouth wide open, they will contract a company of NY to project the security system of Rio, this company is the same that made the project of the New Yorker security system in the government of Rudolph Giuliani. I know the current security in NYC isn’t the same of the Canadians cities, but ask any New Yorker and you will know the big difference of this before and after his government. Rio is planning with the help of the federal government the most modern department of public safety that already existed in Brazil. For you have an idea, they will install pickups sound of shots throughout the city. Just a shot sound be captured, the center will be immediately activated and the next cameras will monitor the location of the shot and within minutes a car will come to the site. This system exists only in Israel and in U.S. (If I’m not wrong). It is just about the security, the public transport (don’t forget the high speed train) and many other things will be improved.

When Rio de Janeiro won the games many television reporters of many countries arrived in the city to make a “special” about it, and the biggest example was given by an Australian television, they came here and just showed the worst side of Rio, the most deprived areas. OK, it will help a lot Rio with tourism. When I knew it, I were very sad, because as a writer said “being Brazilian is an ache”, this ache begins without much fanfare, partly in the belly, partly through the stomach. Then it goes and settles in the left breast. So It’s how the pain of being Brazilian looks like. Give up of Brazil is easy, but the pain of being Brazilian that’s more complicated. I just hope this e-mail don’t look very tireful for you, I liked very much your blog and how you write, and it is good to know your baby is partly Brazilian! But I want to say, before you move from Brazil, you need to travel to the historical cities in the state of Minas Gerais, such as Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, São João Del-Rey, Diamantina, etc."

I replied to my reader and asked him what he thought would help his country. Here is what he had to say:

"Well, I don't think there is a thing that can help, Brazil is in the right way to development now, if you read more about PAC you will find out, it is a program to improve many areas: health, education, security etc, it is like a list of goals, and some of those goals are already being made. This year it will be the presidential elections, an important step for the future in this moment we are living."

Getting A Brazilian Driver's License: Prepared for a Psychological Exam?

It was tempting to name this post "the biggest load of malarkey I have encountered in my two years living in Brazil" but I figured that I should at least try to keep on topic. Besides, I may need the title for something else in the future. 

Mostly for tax purposes (to keep ourselves at arm's length a bit from Canada and show our intent to stay in Brazil, as Mr. DRL's license was expiring, and he didn't want to get a new Canadian one), Mr. DRL and I both underwent the process for obtaining Brazilian driver's licenses. As to be expected, there were countless forms to fill out and fingerprints to be stamped, a few visits to DETRAN (the Brazilian version of the DMV or Registry as we'd call it in Canada) but we got through that part a few months ago. Since we had valid Canadian driver's licenses we did not need to do an actual driver's test behind the wheel, but we did complete small physical exams (eyesight, blood pressure, etc.) as a requirement.

Then, we had to take a 2 hour long psychological test. Which is where the malarkey comes in.For the record, I passed (surprised, are you? Maybe a little?). 

I arrive, fill in some paperwork, do some fingerprints, have my physical exam, meet some nice people (mostly young Brazilians, one other gringa), then am brought into a room with about 8 others to complete the exam. The instructor speaks a tiny bit of English, which is helpful. But before the exam begins she goes on a tirade in Portuguese about foreigners coming in and taking Brazil's oil resources, THEIR resources, and how if you were to go for a driver's test in another country there would be no help with translations. The part about the translations probably true, but not super for making us feel all that welcome/comfortable in this tiny room for two hours with all that hostility. But anyway!

The test is the biggest joke I have ever encountered. I was warned by Mr. DRL and a friend that it was bizarre but no amount of warning prepared me for it. Every opportunity I had I stealthily took photos to share with you. Because that is the only way you can ever understand begin to understand... what is involved to get a Brazilian driver's license. OH.MY.GOD.

Exhibit 1:

Pin the horseshoe on the??? No, I am not kidding, this was an actual multiple choice question on the test.

This part was interesting too - you had to put a tiny dot in each of the triangles on the line (far left box), then in the middle you had to complete a maze with a steady hand, finally on the right, put two small check marks in each box. I feel so much safer on Rio's roads knowing that the driver's have completed these crucial tasks.

The ducks were pretty funny too...

This page took the cake for me. Really, swastikas? Finger + Ring = Finger with ring on?

There was also a section of the test which required us to memorize items in a picture and write them down, and a bizarre exercise where we had to write matching straight small lines on a paper for a predetermined amount of time, then count them up. It's a mystery as to what they are looking for in that exercise? Is it better to have more lines or for them to be uniform? I went for more uniform and was glad after as I didn't have to count as many tiny little lines in the end but who knows?

2009 Rio Expat Survey: Advice for those moving to Rio!

This entry concludes the results of the 2009 Rio Expat Survey that I conducted. I hope it's been helpful for some of you, particularly those considering a move to Rio!

My final question: If you could give a single piece of advice to someone moving to Rio next month, what would it be?

• Bring sheets and comfort foods atleast to cover you untill you adapt and are able to make your own comfort foods.
• Bring more money than you thought you might need.
  Learn some Portuguese before you get here!
• Learn the language.
• Call and talk to someone when you are determining what to bring and what area to live in. Discussion can provide you with information that you might not have known would be useful to you
• enjoy it - the Brazilians do
• Come with an open mind because you will NOT find all the familiar brands you have back home, but their equivalent is sufficient to compensate!
• ake language lessons seriously in the beginning and speak to several other expats to find a good local support network for housing issues (searches, repairs, cleaning, etc). accept the sunga as your beach attire and really research your visa consultants.
• try to learn some of the language before you arrive
• Bring good walking shoes: sneakers or sandals.
• time has a different meaning in Rio, take it easy, lower your expectations and enjoy the wonderful landscape!
• Study Portuguese before moving here + participate in an intense cultural training
• Make the most of your time here. Keep yourself busy and involved in as many things as impossible. Embrace the Rio life, it is fun, but you have to make it fun and make the most of it.
• Open your mind, there is not just your way of getting along with life!
• Your visa may take about 6 months, so be prepared not to see your shipment for a while.
• Done enough research on what need to brings.
• Consider twice.
• Relax and be prepared for the unexpected.
• learn portuguese asap
• BUY BUY BUY...
  Buy what you can't live without...for women, bras or other personal items you need from day to day. For men, a nice pair of running shoes. For families with children, buy anything you can think of that you will need or need to restock. Having things shipped with your container beats having to travel and deal with customs at the airport.
• Be open-minded, venture out to see the sites, and try new things at least once -- from the odd-looking Amazonian fruit to skimpy Brazilian swimwear!
• Have a look at the things that you use daily, and bring a lot of them as a stockpile.
• Learn Portuguese
• Get in touch with the American and British Society's and the Canasta Group. Be active, make yourself get out and explore.
• If you like biking, attend Kraft Bikes free weekly rides. Safer to bike with a group, and the shop owner (Alberto) is friendly and knowledgeable.
• Pack light
• Be prepared to fall in love with Rio, don't judge the city until after you have spent at least 2 full months living there.
• Enjoy the simple things. Use your common sense and when things get too be too much, have a beer at a breathtakingly beautiful spot!
• Enjoy and relax
• Find a friend who knows the code here and relax. Be careful. Let go of your timing and take advantage of one of the most beautiful cities the world has to offer!
  Do your research well, so it will be less of a shock. Also, learn some of the language before coming.
• Do you research on everything--housing, schools, etc.
• Expect things to get better after 6 months
• Relax and get ready to enjoy, you should be as careful here as you would be in New York or Miami.
• place where you'll need a lot of a patience.... but you can really enjoy life
• PORTUGUESE, PORTUGUESE, PORTUGUESE.
• Move all of your major appliances from home- all local made machines break weekly! Also bring your furniture if the company is not buying it for you- it is very expensive here and not well made.
• think about what you enjoy and continue
• This is a really hard question.
  I think my advice would be to learn the language as quickly as possible. Speaking and understanding the language is the key to really enjoying the richness of carioca culture.
• Don't live in Barra!
• Learn Portugese in a group setting like IBEU.
  Don't live in Barra
• Be open and excited. It's a magical place.
• Take the sun oil with you.

2009 Rio Expat Survey: The Difficulties

I asked survey participants what is the most difficult thing about living in Brazil as a foreigner. This is not meant to be Brazil-bashing, of course living everywhere has advantages and disadvantages. it is meant to be helpful to those considering a move to Brazil. The responses are as follows:

• language barrier (multiple mentions!)
• Family is in America
• difficulty cooking because lack of ingredients and finding everyday things especially in Leblon...and getting things fixed, furniture delivered...EVERYTHING seems harder except there is delivery to my kitchen from Zona Sul which is so great!
• The cops
• lousy pay
• Not mastering the language and rarely having a conversation... though I guess new moms have that problem no matter where they are....
• Brazilians tend to tell you what they think you want to hear, which is not always the truth. They want to please, but do not always come through with what they promise, schedule, etc. They don't like to say they can't do something.
• the price of everything and the summer weather and the poor quality/price of and lack of apartments in leblon/ipanema area
• general hygiene of the streets! ugh!
• taxi drivers, people not asking for help or stating that they do not know how to do things, the quality of how certain things work, safety issues, lack of community initiatives, lack of standardization
• the people and the lack of respect for others (being late, not calling, etc)
• Security issues and a fairly low quality of housing (compared to what you would get back home for the same price).
• The craziness (buses, taxis, noise, chaos) and the bureaucracy.
• Far away from home, Security situation
• Language barrier. Safety issues. Not feeling fulfilled at all times. Culture is different to what i am used too to.
• Language, crime, it's not home
• Restrictions for the kids
• Language / lack of luxuries / flight time home
• The availability of decent appartments, most of them are obselete and the landlord do not put enough effort to refurbish
• Language, traffic jams, lack of security.
• My husbands company, because we never know how long we may stay and the almost non-existent operationg time of light bulbs.
• violence and paranoia that comes with high crime
• things happen on their own time and not N. American time
• Nothing, really.
• The pollution and congestion and lack of good places to ride our bikes and train like we used to. My husband is working a lot more and is more stressed, and he is on call on the weekends so we can't go anywhere. Also, I do not have a work permit (although I volunteered then worked at THRio for six months), so some days that drives me nuts.
• Difficulty in getting anything done right, regardless of how long you might be willing to wait
• Langauage barrier, but my fault. Crime.
• Noise and concern over personal safety
• Concerns about security, finding work for other-half
• Rain, Rain, Rain. Language, Being away from family, cost of certain goods (electronics, clothes)
• Lack of personal commitment in business and the utter chaos and self-serving approach to societal behavior
• Crime and Dirt
• relaxed schedule
• General security fear, schools not as good as I could get in the States, and its hot hot hot
• I drive all my past maids and present maid crazy with it. Constant battle and will never get use to it, although we use air all the time, it is still present
• Very expensive and not too easy to get around. The expat women's group (INC) wasn't really set up like other international groups
• Missing family and rain
• crime... I am trying not to get over-paranoid.... but the danger is there and it would be silly to ignore it
• crime
• Hmm, that gets less and less with every year. I would say being so far away from family and friends. You need a lot of patience to live here. You need to get accostumed to seeing a lot of people living in conditions much less than your own. Rio can be bad, but I have seen far worse in the NE and North of Brasil...makes favelas here look desirable
• so many people - I realize the big city life isn't that great.
• 1. Paperwork
  2. Language
  3. Incredibly high cost of electronics
• Insecurity although I think Brazilian and international media tends to sensationalize things. If you watch the news, you'll see hundreds of violent cases in Rio (some of them extremely trivial or at really distant, marginalized neighborhoods) and you won't hear much from other cities, although Rio is not one of the five cities with the highest crime rates. Weird...
• When it rains there is nothing to do!
• The language
• traffic, crime
• The constant feeling unsafe. I didn't think I was too worried while I was in Rio, but upon returning I realized how unconsciously afraid I had been the entire time I was there. It is nice to go running down the street with my ipod at dusk in my mid-western town.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: How Have You Changed?

I asked how living in Rio has changed participants, if at all?

• Immense changes. More adaptable now, cultural norms here are norms to me now, more flexible. Im sure the list goes on and on.
• i think I definitely have more of an open mind about living in different countries.
• It has blown my mind to smithereens
• More peaceful, calm, patient
• I'm more open. I am more social. I seldom spend a weekend nights at home. I have a higher sense of self, community and spirit.
• I have become more laid back about getting things done.
• happier
• It has made me aware that there is life...a whole new world OUTSIDE of the US culture
• more focus on exercise, realizing that commuting really sucks, managing people, really appreciating how well things work in a first world country
• Life is too short, so travel and see the world!
• Too soon to say and all mixed up with having a baby, but maybe I'm relaxing a little about some things. Especially in interactions with strangers. I feel less static between people.
• thought me to be more spefic about things and to be more flexible about expectations
• I define myself less through my job and appreciate more other (personal) things of my life.
• I appreciate things a whole lot more back home, things I used to take for granted - like it driving and getting to your destination quickly. I've also become a whole lot more PATIENT.
• Hasn't really. Not yet anyway...... Well makes me appreciate the things i have back home more.
• I now have a greater appreciation of my home country.
• I am much more relaxed
• Next time we move I will ensure we have all the info and visa issues sorted before we leave our existing country. Rio has changed me as we thought previously that we had company support. Not every country is the same !
• More relax
• Patience
• Improvising and always have a back-up plan.
• made me much more street-smart.
• Still the same me.
• I have learned another language and been fortunate to live and experience yet another country, it's culture, customs and culinary delights!
• This is the first time that I haven't worked for an extended time period and I no longer feel that my self-worth is determined by my job and am more happy to just "be". I think that I take more pleasure out of life in general. But that has taken me a long time - the first year we moved here I was very depressed and angry....
• It has taught me patience that I never knew I had.
• Spoiled me.
• I've realised that I am very adaptabile and don't miss home as much as I thought I would.
• I enjoy the days more.
• I am able to communicate in another language!
• I am much more relaxed and less over-scheduled
• Style - I've got a more stylish look as a result of living here. Family - I see how Brazilians put a great focus on family life and hope to emmulate that.
• I am still me and so is the family, if anything more laid back.
• Appreciate the good ole USA.
• It made me closer to my family.
• I am a happier person
• well, I had to learn another language... already my 5th one
• Way more laid back!
• I have been humbled. I am more patient. I value living life and enjoying life like never before. I find more joy in smaller things. I need less. I want fewer things. I think I have become a little simpler. Oh, and I have relaxed a lot! I don't try to plan-out and organize every second of my life anymore.
• I am much more easygoing now and don't let things stress me out anymore.
• it hasn't changed me, just made me realize how I don't want to live
• It sounds cheesy, but I think I've learned how to enjoy the simple pleasures of every day life... a great day at the beach, a fresh fruit juice, meeting with friend to have a beer without needing to plan a party or invent a reason. Before, all I thought about was my commute, my job, my stress.
• I think it made me more relaxed
• I'm not sure it has.....
• I've 'learned' another language, become lazier, and a more hardened drinker (if that were possible). I'd say open minded, but I think that's part of being an expat anyway, and as we lived in Nigeria before....
• Meeting people from all over the world has strengthened my understanding of how wonderfully different and special we all are. The more I learn the more I want to know.
• I think I am much more open to new things and that I now want to see much more of the world.
• it changes me for sure during the stay but not afterwards

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Safety and Restrictions

I think every expat living in Rio and every person considering potentially moving here has had concerns about safety and security in Rio. Rio has quite a reputation internationally...

But really what it comes down to is how people are affected personally on a daily basis. So I had to ask the questions: Have you been personally affected by crime in Rio? Have you witnessed crime in Rio?

71% of respondents have not been the victim of any sort of crime in Rio.

Just 25% have WITNESSED crime in Rio. (DRL's note - public urination, prostitution and littering are not considered crimes here!)

I thought that this was pretty good/encouraging. I provided space for participants to leave comments, and here is what they had to say (most are descriptions of what the crimes people have encountered have been):

• a thin gold necklace was ripped off my father-inlaw's neck by a guy jogging.
• simple pick-pocketing at the beach
• My best friend was kidnapped for one day. She was waiting for a real estate agent to see a house in Barra.
• It was not random, but by house staff... thief!
• We got mugged - 3 guys took friend's bag and my shopping bag.
• Plainclothes police holding someone at gunpoint.
• Credit Card was copied, saw a mugging, nothing serious just inconvenient
• Mugged at knifepoint
• Bike theft
• theft in stores, purse stolen, and vendor being robbed
• I was with two people that had necklaces taken. Do not wear gold or gems.
• Witnessed assault on two british tourists (involving a very large knife), no one injured, but scary.
• late night mugging
• Mugged in Leblon
• I witnessed someone being shot a street corner near Lapa while riding in a cab

Now, in an attempt to protect employees from such incidents, some employers impose restrictions on expat employees. I asked respondents if they were subject to such restrictions. 77 percent were not. Of those who were, these are some of the restrictions they have:

• Restricted movement
• Not allowed to drive
• Certain activities restricted
• Only allowed to live in certain areas
• Not allowed to go to the Zona Norte or favelas

Stay safe out there!

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: How the Expats Shop

1) I asked where they most frequently buy food/groceries in Rio - they were allowed to list up to 3 options:

Zona Sul was most popular by far, followed by Hortifruti, Feiras (the open air markets), Sendas, Pao do Acucar, Extra, Carrefour and Wal-Mart.

2) I asked which creature comforts Rio expats bring back with them from home countries on a regular basis.

83% bring back beauty products and toiletries

73% bring food products

56% bring electronics

30% bring other household items (DRL note: I know of several people who bring in garbage bags and dish soap!)

Other items participants specifically listed with this question:

• Baking soda
• facial creams
• peanut butter
• coffee maker, dvd player, kids' cereal, candy
• oriental herbs and spices, dutch treats
• syrup, granola bars, peanut butter
• spicy food, spa treatments
• chips chips and more chips
• Perfume, Clinique, Mac, -makeup in general. Ipods, car stereo, telephone, answering maching, computers, printers, cameras, children's toys, strollers, bedding, and lots of clothes, adults and kids clothes/shoes/accessories...the list goes on!
• Walkers Salt and Vinager Crisps

3) Not what the folks at Shopping Leblon want to hear...  when asked where they buy their clothing, ex-pats in Rio responded that they buy most of their clothing back home:

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: What you miss

I asked respondents what they missed back home (besides the obvious answer of the people - family and friends). Here is what they said, somewhat categorized:

Intangibles:

• The easiness of everything familiar.
• not having to worry about money
• efficiency and reliability
• Immediate networks from city to city. I'm building my newtworks now... it's challenging, but exhausting at 46 - a bit like starting over.
• familiarity
• The efficiency of things back home.
• The conveniences and easiness about life - everything here is a bit more of a struggle.
• Efficiency.
• less bureaucracy
• accountability
• Having things work the way they are supposed to.
• Orderliness.
• The average level of education.
• intellectual interaction with friends
• Ease of everything
• conveinence
• Rio is NOISY, I miss the silence

In the tummy-ables:

• Mexican food. I'm from Houston, and there aren't any Mexican food places that I know of here. (DRL note: There is Rota 66 and Blue Agave - try them out!) 
• Brooklyn bodegas
• the food :)
• The food...The healthy food (Whole Foods, Trader Joes), yummy salads, good avocados and sour cream!
• The grocery stores
• Good, real bread!
• Food and comforts.
• Organic food - always, everything and almost everywhere.
• food (from New Mexico)
• The wide variety of tasty, inexpensive ethnic foods (Indian, Thai, Ethiopian, Italian, Mexican, Chinese...)
• chili dogs, pizza, dunking donuts
• mexican food
• american desserts
• Chips .. LOL They are not the same here in Rio
• Chinese food and Indian food.
• Mexican food
• Vietnamese food
• Being able to order a cappucino and have it arrive without sweetened condensed milk, chocolate, sugar, or all of the above mixed in.
• curry, salt and vinegar crisps
• Donor kebabs and curry

Infrastructure:

• community spaces
• Availability of anything!
• my public library

In the Weather/landscapes:

• seasons
• Hikes in the woods.
• I miss the cold.
• Cool weather.
• Fresch crisp air of autumn
• Fresh air.
• grass
• different seasons... I hate cold...but I like the diversity

In the Ring:

• watching a sport event with friends over cold ones
• watching American Football
• Pubs and warm beer

In English!

• I miss speaking English as my first language.
• News in english and general TV.
• communication
• to speak my birth language
• BBC tv
• UK TV

In Matters of Taste and Culture:

• Good music.

All In the Family:

• my family
• Nothing. Home is where the family is together.

"Housekeeping" Items:

• cleaniness
• I miss the puncuality of service men back home.
• my lovely garden
• my house

Freedoms/Security:

• The freedom to get in my car and drive myself where ever I want to go, whenever I want to go there without any logistical work
• A life without such great security worries, i.e. for me personally: to be able to just "be" (without having to previously think about what to wear, when to go, if possible to walk, etc.)
• I miss being able to walk freely around my town without having to worry about the dangers.
• My independence.
• Driving
• strolling at night without concern
• Reasonable driving.
• Driving a nice car
• The safety and cleanliness.
• Personal freedom
• back yard with no walls, suburban lifestyle
• Nicer cars
• Driving in the car with no known destination...just getting lost without worrying about safety.
• Flying small planes in the US, the US is a pilot's country...here it is very different.
• Being able to walk on the street with my camera in plain view without worrying about being robbed.
• Good driving
• Freedom to go where I want, when I want without concern.
• Being able to get or do anything I want, any time.

Shopping:

• online shopping
• access to things
• SHOPPING SHOPPING SHOPPING and then there's SHOPPING -- more specifically, discount/off price shopping and high quality products for a reasonable price
• Dillards, Macy's, the Galleria, Kroger's
• Stupid UK soaps that I can't see online. I'm getting over it.
• H&M clothing stores
• my favorite stores
• Marks and Spencer, topshop
• cheap candles...a lot of everyday little things.

Other:

• I miss the medical care!
• not much, that is why I am an expate - I do love going home to visit though.
• cheap international flights

Our Fall Adventure: Chile!

From the moment we stepped out of the airport in Chile, it felt like we were in Canada. The cars, the temperature, the calm...  we felt right at home.

Santiago is a great city, situated near the mountains and ocean, clean. Lots to do. 

We took in a day of snowboarding at Valle Nevado. The road up to this resort is really something else. We ran the a/c, passed cacti, numerous treacherous switchbacks sans guardrails, cattle grazing and about 150 crosses on the way up....

Love this next photo: what are the chances?

Whenever anyone asks how we managed to get in a day on the slopes with a little one, we quite enjoy teasing them and saying that we strapped Canadoca on our backs, then wait for a reaction.  People generally raise their eyebrows and nod their heads vigorously and say okay a few times while taking it in (granted, I haven't told any Brazilians this yet!) The truth? We split a pass and switched off every few runs. It was great - the lodge at Velle negado is a wonderful place to spend the day.

The chairlifts were pretty funny = they have little guardrails that open and close to let each person through individually, and then you step onto this rubber moving ramp. It is dummy proof that is for sure...

We sort of hummed and hawed over whether or not to go up for a day or not but are we ever glad we did. It was a highlight of our trip to see the lodge/resort lifestyle there, the views were SPECTACULAR, and although it was just a week until the end of the ski season, the snow was great. OTIMO!

We toured Concha e Tore winery as well while in Santiago - what a gorgeous place. Yes, Canadoca was the only baby on the  tour...

Back in my college days when I worked as a server, I sold a lot of "Diablo" wine - and we learned all about it when at the winery. Years ago, the locals were stealing wine from the cellar of the winery, so the owner decided to spread a rumour that it was haunted by the devil. It put a stop to the stealing, and the legend lives on today - as part of the tour we were locked in the cellar with the "devil" - which made for some great photo ops, see below. Also note that Mr. DRL assured everyone that our little angel would protect us all...

During our time in Santiago we also enjoyed some fantastic meals... we just seem to be VERY good at finding those amazing restaurants... some recommendations to pass along: Astrid y Gaston (Antonio Bellet 201, Providencia), Rivoli (Nueva De Lyon 77), The Santiago Fajita Company (Santa Magdalena 92 Local 10 and by the way - is owned by Alex, a great Chilean-Canadian guy from Vancouver!), and Osadia (photos below).

Food at Astrid y Gaston, below (SUCH an incredible meal):

2009 Expat Survey Results: Working in Brazil, the rewards and frustrations

55% of respondents said they work more hours here in Brazil than they did in their previous job.

I also asked what was the most rewarding thing about working in Brazil and the most frustrating. Let's start with the frustrations and finish on a positive note with the rewards:

Participants reported that their biggest frustrations working in Rio de Janeiro are:

• getting people to do something "right now" is almost impossible. Everything takes more time here
• I teach English largely to rich kids. Some of their attitudes and sense of entitlement drives me nuts.
• the cost of living, quality of apartments available for rent
• Working in Brazil is more work as a expat...longer hours.
• because of lack of standardized bureaurcracy, I find that people sometimes neglect common sense in making decisions as they are always trying to make it fit the process instead of designing a process that solves the issue
• too much to do in too little time
• resistency against changes
• There is always expression for para manha...
• inefficiency
• low pay
• you need to micromanage here in Rio.
• the language barrier - I worked with 5 people who spoke no English so it was pretty much an immersion experience.
• For me, language... I'd like to speak more portuguese to help improve my work relationships here.
• Time difference with US and UK markets, government red tape (you will know what I mean about this after you attempt to get any work papers, open a bank account, get clarification on any laws, etc.
• Lack of commitment, inability to separate main issues for side issues the role of large egos that need stroking above the "greater good" of the deal/business.
• how slow things can be sometimes
• The most frustrating thing is that Brazilians are not direct, they beat around the bush like you wouldn't believe it!
• (DRL's note: I'm guessing this person is a teacher): the parents
• not being able to buy/fix camera equipment here in Rio because it's too expensive.
• The most frustrating thing is dealing with overly dramatic Brazilians!
• The most frustrating was the lack of quality teaching materials. A lot of basic supplies that I use here in the states were not available there. I had to get very creative to effectively teach.
• simplicity (commitment to a deal, agreement or date)

Participants commented that the following makes working in Rio de Janeiro the most rewarding:

• Teaching the local staff new things. The desire to learn is very strong.
• How passionate Brazilians are about their work and life in general...
• making lifelong friends
• having the opportunity to be in another country
• Closeness of the team
• long lunches, long holidays
• rio lifestyle
• Reward is that you get to experience a new culture and that for me is priceless.
• working with a lot of talented Brazilians
• speaking more and more portuguese, basic experience and challenge.
• Getting past the language barrier
• (DRL's note: I'm guessing this person is a teacher): the kids
• The warmth of clients when they are pleased with my work.
• It allows me to get to know Brazilians and it pays much better than being in the UK.
• It was great to be around young children who were bi-lingual. They were so fluent in English at such a young age (1st grade).
• simplicity (take it easy)

New on the site?

Click here to start from the very beginning... Note that in the past year and a half in Rio I have 1) Relaxed about a lot of things 2) Changed my mind about a lot of others. I figure I'm allowed....

Recent Inquiries & Responses: 3

This is part of a new series in which I am posting excerpts from reader emails and my responses in hopes of helping more people who may have the same questions or concerns.

I received an email from a Brazilian living in Canada recently:

Question:

I will be on my way to Rio, to visit family, next month. I'm going with my spouse ... and I am kind of freaking out. I have been here for so long, I am terrified of all the violence, and high rate of car accidents and things like that. It's all just so different here! I actually don't think twice about going out with my digital camera, iPod and cell phone... whereas I wouldn't dream of doing it in Brazil (granted I haven't been there in nearly 3 years... but still).

Now I am sure I am amping it all up... I did live there for 20 years and was never even mugged... but still! Heh. I was just wondering if you had any thoughts on that, as a foreigner in Rio. I can't talk to my relatives or friends about that as they just wouldn't understand why I'm so scared. So yeah...

My Response:

I just flew back to Rio from Canada myself. I understand how you feel, and had a lot of the same feelings myself coming back this time, especially with having a daughter now, but I think when you arrive you will feel okay. I understand not wanting to talk to your relatives/family about it as they could take it the wrong way.  Just be sure to take precautions - and walk around like you own the place - I think body language is a huge thing! Also remember that much of the violence is segregated into the favelas, which is not the case withgang violence in other cities! You have to remember that things can happen no matter where you are in the world, so we always need to be careful but to try to live without too much fear.  I hope this helps?

The FIRM

Just had to share this little story with you...

Many of my friends and acquaintances work for a company that I will only refer to as "The Firm".

In my opinion, The Firm controls a few too many details of their lives, mostly disguised as perks (mortgages, invasive medical exams, drivers who monitor and restrict their movements, safety training that scares the heck out of people, and rules rules rules). Don't get me wrong, some of these things are incredibly nice and convenient and I have certainly appreciated when I've benefited from my friends' situations, but the reality for them is that there are times when they come at a cost (mostly privacy).

The Firm has a policy for everything, and from what my friends tell me, there is very little deviation from the policies. Meaning, every situation is not handled individually, with a brain.

My example: a friend came to Rio to live in temporary housing (which is another story altogether... after living here much longer than a year she and her husband, daughter and large dog are still in cramped temporary furnished housing, simply because they were not initially intended to be here longer than a year... as per the Firm's policies, can't make an exception...) which meant she was not sending a shipment of furniture. Her family did, however, want to have bicycles in Rio. Shipments = expensive. Our friends suggested to the company that perhaps it would be more cost effective to just purchase them some bikes (which could then be company property, or whatever). Instead, the Firm shipped their three bikes in a container which cost $5,000.

I realize that to buy the family bikes could have set a precedent that could get out of control, but personally I think this is the kind of stuff that should make shareholders livid. I could give endless examples. Expats are NOT cheap.

Mr. DRL works for a small company and we are the only expats. There are benefits and drawbacks to this. The benefits are that the expat policy is basically nonexistant so we make it up as we go and as needs arise. The drawbacks are that there are very limited resources for us, but that has meant we've just had to get resourceful ourselves!

The Magic Mountain Man

One of my friends lives in Lagoa, sort of across from Ipanema, in a building that backs onto a mountain. From her apartment, the views are spectacular, a view of Christo from nearly every room, the beautiful lake, the ocean off in the distance, and Dois Irmaos. She hosted my baby shower when Canadoca was born and my mom and sister still  mention the views on a regular basis.

However, as I've mentioned once or twice before, one never knows quite what to expect in Rio. The views she has the opportunity to take in are not limited to these panoramic scenes.

One day, she was looking out the window towards the mountain and she saw a man. Er, maybe I should mention that he was NAKED. At the time, she thought he may have hung himself in fact, but it turned out he was just doing some sort of yoga pose or exercise.

Knowing that it would be difficult for people to picture this naked mountain man, she decided to document the experience.

I thought about blurrinng these photos in select places but then decided that it would be best to show the mountain man in his true form. You know, maintain some sort of "journalistic integrity". Consider this your warning that there is FULL FRONTAL male nudity below.

 

It wouldn't be the last time she saw the mountain man. He reappears every once in a while, showing off his moves (he exercises in the nude on the mountain). My friend who sees the mountain man speculates that he does have to pick and choose which times of year to appear, as he wouldn't want to get a, well, sunburn...

So after hearing about this mountain man for over a year we were all quite tickled to see that he'd made the paper:

 

The article calls him the hermit of the lake, claims he lives alone in a cave, climbs trees to pick fruit, and is disconnected when spoken to (talks about God and the Devil).

Current Cravings

I think I'm getting fairy accustomed to the expat life. If I seem particularly weary lately, keep in mind that I have not been home in a year, (going home for 4 days for a funeral does not count, in my books. I didn't even get to see my parents!) and have a new baby I want to share with my friends and family. Most expats I know here go home MUCH more frequently (4-5 times a year in many cases, often spending 2-3 months of the year back home).

Having many visitors has helped with the homesickness. As it is the people we miss, not the things. Well, mostly.  There are a few exceptions, namely (this list can also be known as the "what DRL will be hitting up upon landing back home):

• Chinese food
• Good Salads. Mostly from places like The Cactus Club and Joey Tomato's.
• Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc (and I am not even a white wine drinker... but I want some)
• Silver Sage Raspberry Merlot, or any dessert wine from here. Seriously, if you are ever in the Okanagan, you MUST MUST MUST visit this winery it is incredible!
• Sephora (every time we ever go home on the next Visa statement Mr. DRL asks "What is this Sephora again? And why did you go eight times?")
• Blueberry Pancakes from Nellies in Calgary (I think we went every morning when we were in Calgary in Feb...)
• Magazines
• Bras that fit
• Power Bars sans nuts (I'm allergic). This ORSKI one is one of my faves.
• Cereal... mmmm Kashi GoLean. I admit I brought a costco box back with me last time.
• Finally, COSTCO. Going to Costco will just seem like such a treat...

Really, the list is not any longer.... that I can think of now, anyway... my, how I've evolved...

Canadoca's Brazilian Passport

She has her dress picked out:

but will she get to wear it? (Dress is from Fabula - a children's boutique here in Rio).

Canadoca's aunt is getting married two weeks from today somewhere in Canada. Will we and the Canadoca be there to show off her mad air guitar skills (aided by mom)? Not sure. Why? No Brazilian passport yet.

To be fair, this should have been a fairly easy process. IF we had already received our Residency Cards, which we applied for over a year ago.

I was told by other gringoes to make an appointment at Shopping Leblon at the passport office and that from there on it would be quite simple and we'd have the passport within days. Our appointment was in mid-June.

We arrived at the appointment accompanied by an agent from the company my husband's firm employs to take care of passport and visa issues. When our name was called, we were told that since we didn't have our Residence Cards yet, we could not be issued a passport at that office and rather we would have to go to the Federal Police at the International Airport. This was frustrating for two reasons: 1) Mr. DRL took the day off work for this appointment, but more importantly, 2) Our agent should have realized that this was the case since they were involved in applying for our residency cards.

The next day, we headed to the international airport. A different agent met us there and asked us what we were there for (!! I am not even going to go there.... I am just not...) and basically stood around. Mr. DRL dealt directly with the officials, who told us that our presence wasn't really required, we could have motoboyed in some forms, and that they would need to launch an investigation into our daughter's birth since we don't have our residence cards yet. We were told that this would take about 30 days. Around this time the agency also admits that there was some sort of error or mix-up on their part with our application for residency cards. Strike three.

We are now applying for permanent citizenship based on the fact that we have a Brazilian child. Which will apparently take about another year, but allows us to work here, for any company, rather than being tied to the company because it holds our visa. Nice to have flexibility for sure.

However, currently we are waiting to hear if the signatures from FOUR doctors present in the delivery room are enough to prove that Canadoca is ours. I have heard horror stories of people having to undergo DNA testing in this scenario so we are hopeful that their word will suffice (I guess I should have opted for the birth video at the hospital!). 

Clearly our agency dropped the ball. I just hope that it can be retrieved in time, so that we can attend Mr. DRL's sister's wedding, and so that he can be there when his family first sees Canadoca. (I'm going home once the passport is issued, regardless, but he is only going to go if he can attend the wedding).

Lessons learned:
1) If you are a foreigner having a child in Brazil, make EVERY effort to ensure you receive your residence card before the child is born. It will save you a lot of hassle.
2) Carefully check the reputation of any agency you entrust with these matters. This particular agency deals with many companies here and seems to do a great job with the actual workers' visas/passports, etc. but drops the ball when it comes to the dependants/families. I know another woman whose husband works for another company who was stuck in the US for WEEKS earlier this year because the same agency made mistakes with their family's visas.

Canasta - Truly a Cultural Experience ;)

After learning to play canasta with a group of expat ladies, I started noticing that there are people playing canasta everywhere in Rio.  On the streets, it is not unusual to spot tables of four playing the game, or alternately, dominoes.

I then learned that Canasta does in fact have South American roots - it was invented in Uruguay. So now I feel like we're being "all cultural" when we attend... haha.

Canadoca has sort of become an unofficial Canasta Mascot (or Canascot...) for our group.

To read more about the history of Canasta, click here.

Canadoca's Passports - Part 1 - Canadian Passport Requirements

I'll soon get into the wild goose chase tale that outlines the adventure of getting Canadoca her Brazilian passport... until then, here are the details for obtaining a Canadian Passport/citizenship for children born to Canadian Citizens in Brazil.

The Application for Canadian Citizenship can be downloaded and printed out of the CIC website: www.cic.gc.ca  form CIT0001.

Besides the application, we will:
- 02 photos (following sizes and instructions provided on the form);
- original birth certificate of the child in Portuguese;
- translation of the birth certificate by a Sworn Translator (available at www.atprio.com.br);
- original proof of Canadian citizenship (Birth Certificate or Canadian Citizenship Card) of the applicant (mother or father of the child);
- marriage certificate (not mandatory);
- original document of mother and father (passport or ID with picture and signature);
- processing fee R$140,00.

Please note that in order to apply for a Canadian Passport you need a proof of travel. No Canadian Passport will be issued without it.

For the passport the application can be downloaded and printed out of the Passport Canada website: www.passportcanada.gc.ca  form PPTC 042 (For Children under 16 years of age English).

Please note that the back of one of the pictures need to be sign by a guarantor (refer to the instructions).

Form PPTC116 will be signed at the Consulate General, as the passport will be issued with a limited validity with no extension of validity.

Passport fees:

- R$37,00 for a 24 pages passport (for applicant under 3 years)

Passports are now issued in Canada in 15 working days, when all requirements are completed. Please note that fees are paid in Reais, in cash, to the Consular Department when the application and documents are submitted.

The Consular Department opening hours to the public are: from Monday to Thursday, from 08:30hs to 12:00hs and from 14:00hs to 17:30hs and Friday from 8:30hs to 14:00hs.

Consulate General of Canada/Consulat Général du Canada
Av. Atlântica, 1130 - 5th /ième floor/étage
22021-000 - RJ - Brazil/Brésil
Tel: (55 21) 2543-3004
Fax/Télec: (55 21) 2275-2195
www.brasil.gc.ca

My note: it was of particular interest to us that our daughter will not be a Canadian Citizen for at least a year (this is how long it takes to process), and the passport she will be given now is just temporary because she needs it to travel.

English Speaking Private Schools in Rio

Sending kids to English private school in Rio is NOT CHEAP. Most expats I know who have children include school fees in their compensation packages. See below, it's quite the perk...

Here is the link for the American School http://www.earj.com.br/

Escola Americano Tuition schedule for the upcoming school year:

2009-10 Academic Year

Monthly tuition payments due the 5th  of each month, to be paid in 12 monthly installments:

3 day per week Toddler program:                      R$ 1.585,00
Pre-school half-day:                                            R$ 2.171,00
Pre-school   extended day:                                 R$ 3.193,00
Lower School (Kindergarten to 5th Grade):      R$ 3.942,00
Middle School Fees (Grades 6 – 8):                   R$ 4.281,00
Upper School Fees (Grades 9 – 12):                 R$ 4.873,00

Capital Fee: US$ 6,500.00

The Capital Fee, paid once for every child who is enrolled in 1st grade or above, is used to support investments in technology, facility renovations or other special projects.

Bus fees currently range from R$ 293,00 to R$ 408,00, depending on the route.

Lunch ticket: R$ 11,00 per day or R$10,00 for monthly contracts.

British School: http://www.britishschool.g12.br

2009 Monthly Fees
Pre-Nursery (Part-Time)     R$ 1.963,00
Pre-Nursery (full time) & Nursery     R$ 3.007,00
Reception to Class 4     R$ 2.759,00
Class 5 to Class 11     R$ 3.367.00

Entrance Fees

An Entrance Fee is charged at the time a child enters the school. Entrance Fees contribute to the school’s Development Fund which is maintained strictly for major development projects. Use of this fund is controlled by the Board of Governors. Entrance Fees are as follows:
Entrance Fees
(1st January – 31st December 2009)
First child     R$ 16.747,00
Second child     R$ 10.766,00
Third and subsequent children     R$ 8.374,00

My Guestbook - Part 8 - What has changed about Mr. DRL & I since Moving to Brazil

Part 8 of a series of questions I asked my guests after their Brazilian vacations.

Question 8: What, if anything, has changed the most about Mr. DRL & DRL since leaving Canada?

My Mom: They are more relaxed, even though I am sure Mr. DRL's work can be quite a challenge, they are enjoying the experience and will never be the same again!!! Also, a bit of a change with preparing for baby's arrival.

My Bridesmaid & Her Boyfriend: Um, well aside from them both speaking another language and learning how to live in a completely opposite society they are still the same people we all know and love!

My Mother-in-law: We love the self-confidence they have attained by having to deal with Latin energy and language issues.  Such an interesting life they lead, when a breakfast meeting with a politician is just another day at the office.  Again, DRL's Portuguese is amazing.

Engaged Couple Friends: About 3 kilos!   :-) We were so excited to hear the news!  (DRL Note: at the point of their visit, 3 kilos was the extent of the baby weight gain!)

My Dad: Hard to see in two weeks but hopefully they've realized how fortunate they are to be from a country like Canada.

Baby DRL's Arrival & Reception in Brazil

My mom and sister arrived today from Canada to visit us and meet our new daughter. (Let's get serious, there's just one reason there's here...)

Having a baby away from home was easier than I thought. I thought it would make me incredibly homesick. It hasn't. Maybe that's because I knew my mom & sister were coming?

The expat community in Rio have been fabulous to us.  We've had dozens of meals delivered, many visits, and there is even a baby shower planned. It sure makes it easier to be away from family and old friends back home with this kind of support.  Amazing.

My husband's coworkers have also been incredibly supportive and generous. Although one thing did really surprise me - as I've written about before, since arriving over a year ago there have been VERY FEW gestures or efforts made towards social contact with us by his coworkers. Ok, fine, fair enough. But then I have a baby and all of a sudden everyone makes us a priority. We had to pretend to check out of the hospital earlier than we did to prevent a bunch of his coworkers from coming to see us there. I found this very interesting - it seems to be a cultural difference. Back home, new hospital rules restrict anyone other than the baby's parents, siblings and grandparents from visiting the hospital unless they are a "birth coach" support person. Here, it's a free for all and everyone you've ever met shows up, it seems. 

I was not exactly okay with having these people there for such intimate moments, considering that in the past they could not have even been bothered to ask me to lunch when I was new in town, but yet expected to come to the hospital to be among the first to see my new baby when we were exhausted and enjoying our own alone time. I didn't see any need for it! Yes I did have friends visit us in the hospital, but they were invited by us. And it was great to have them.

I definitely was a bit put off by this attitude by the coworkers. Even when Mr. DRL first shared the news of my pregnancy with the coworkers, a few offered tips/suggestions/to have their wife call me/get together. I was not interested. By that time I'd made my own friends and after having been completely ignored by all of these people when we were new in town I felt like - now that I'm pregnant I'm all of a sudden important? Strange.  Where were you people when I needed to find out where to buy meat? haha!

All of that aside, baby's reception has been very positive here in Brazil, be it our friends, the coworkers, strangers on the street, you name it. Although everyone does think she is a boy (she does not have pierced ears).

I will write soon about my hospital experiences! Until then, I am hanging with baby, nana & auntie...

(It's a good thing I am the only one who can feed little baby DRL otherwise for the next couple weeks I doubt I'd even get to hold her!)

More Anniversaries

This week marked one year since we'd moved into our apartment. While I am pretty happy with our place, this anniversary also brings to mind exactly how long it can take for things to be accomplished here in Rio.

For example, here is a list of items that were not "taken care of" when we moved in and we were assured would be fixed/provided immediately. Note that these do not include all of the things that went wrong after we moved in.

• Walls under AC units repaired - moisture damage (we ended up contracting this ourselves a few months ago).
• Keys provided for closet doors - they do not close properly without the keys. (We finally found purchased some replacements last month). 
• Island and additional cupboards/storage installed in the kitchen (ummm... yeah don't even get me started. I am not holding my breath). 
• Touch up painting throughout the apartment (we ended up contracting this ourselves a few months ago).

I'm sure that there were more things but I have probably surpressed the memories over the past year in order to survive. The moral of the story? If possible, do not take possession of your apartment until all of these little things are taken care of. OR, be prepared to take matters into your own hands. In our case, we finally just contracted the work out that had to be done, and took it off our rent.

Worried? Who's Worried?

Many friends and family back home have expressed concern about us having a baby "so far from home" - who will help us? Won't it be lonely? You won't have anyone checking in on you!

Here is the reality of the situation.

I am not going to name names but there are three ladies in particular who I have met down here, all fairly new-Gramma's, who keep me in line. As in, make me go to bed. Don't allow me to lift anything in their presence. Cook a lot of good food...  Examples? Sure, I have examples.

Exhibit A) I was in Buzios for the weekend with some friends, and emailing back and forth with one of these friends who was back in the US at the time, about a few (okay a tonne of) items I had shipped to her home which she had so kindly offered to bring down (thanks again!!!).  At some point in our texts back and forth she indicated that she had calculated the time difference and it was high time I should be in bed!  It was about midnight.  (As a sidenote, I must stay up most nights to even see my husband - he gets home at like 10:30 at night! I find it very funny slash depressing to be skyping with friends and family back home and realize that most people there arrive home before Mr. DRL does - and we are 3 or 4 hours ahead of these people, depending on which timezone they are in).  The same woman asked me early on in my pregnancy if I was taking enough vitamins when I was tired one day :)

Exhibit B) I returned an email to another friend I'll call "L" at 10:25 pm a couple of weeks ago.

The response came within moments:

On 25-Mar-09, at 10:29 PM, L wrote:

What are you doing up this late? A pregnant woman needs her sleep!

Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:34 PM
To: L
What, now you! (Harassing me about my bedtime!) haha I love it, so funny.

Minutes later, the actual topic of the email was answered, and I was left with this closing:

Go to bed!

Exhibit C) This one is the funniest and most persistent. Last week I hosted the weekly "Canasta" game.  I was asked repeatedly if I was up to it in "my condition" and I honestly wonder if people were discouraged from going in fears of putting me out, as we had a small turnout! Anyway I was quite spoiled with help and now some items are at my house which we will need next week and I emailed this woman, the next hostess (K), saying I would bring these items by her place.  Here is the response I received today (picture a very strong Southern accent, it makes it better):

From: K
Date: April 9, 2009 12:22

I can have my driver pick them up I DO NOT WANT YOU TO CARRY THEM AROUND!!!!!  Do you understand that.

I also have received the following emails from "K"

From: K
Date: March 10, 2009
You be careful walking around and watch the area you are in.  Got it!

From: K
Date: Feb 18, 2009
I will not be at the beach on Thursday, but if you go don't get to much sun!  And don't get around L,  don't want you to get the bug she has had.

I saved these emails in my baby emails folder and they totally crack me up every time.

So anyone who was worried shouldn't be - these ladies have it covered! And the concern is well-appreciated.

Have Your Say

HSBC surveys expats annually - I figure the best way to keep these surveys accurate is for us to all participate, click here to link to the survey.

Leaving on a Jet Plane...

We expats rely heavily on those jet planes! A cute article on the actual travel part being the bane of an expat's existence can be found here.

Airline service just seems to be getting worse and worse. Although my recent trip home with Continental went very smoothly on the way there, the way back was a different story, with inept on-board servers, a piece of the plane falling off the ceiling and nearly hitting me in the head during take-off, topped off with the crew discussing recent plane crashes during a particularly turbulent takeoff.  I exaggerate not. Which seems grossly unfair considering a regular passenger would probably be arrested for choosing to go on about that particular topic of conversation. At 27 weeks pregnant and exhausted, I didn't exactly have unlimited patience by the time the last incident occurred...although I certainly had more patience than this guy!

But really, what matters is that we get there in one piece, right? Which is why a law is being put forward to change the amount of time pilots and crews have to rest between flights. I'm all for pilots being well-rested. Read more here. 

Worried about delays? This article details the destinations with the most delays. The quick version - airports in India, Casablanca, Orio al Serio Airport near Bergamo, Italy, New York LaGuardia, Newark Liberty International, Birmingham Airport in England, London's Luton and Heathrow Airports. Just FYI - Some South American airports were omitted from consideration for this survey ;)

Air Canada is notorious for being early to jump on the bandwagon for charging customers for items previously provided, but now they are apparently changing their tune, offering to pay you to get bumped from your flight, via Optiontown.com.  Not surprisingly, it is anything but an easy quick process.

Ah, well.  We just feel fortunate to get to go places, right?  Especially if you're in North America, flights to Europe are cheaper than ever! New York tempts me more and more every day and the looks of this new $10 million Lufthansa Lounge in JFK airport just make for one more reason to go... 

Finally, to close on the topic of air travel, has anyone watched Bravo's "First Class All the Way" ?  Travel reality show?

Canada Complaints

I came across an article for expats moving to Canada the other day and it inspired me to do a bit of research about what frustrates expats about living in Canada, to put myself in their shoes.   Which in this case means switching from Havaiana's to Sorels...

 

This is the time of year when everyone in Canada seems to be complaining, because they are ready for winter to be over! (It's one facebook status whining about the weather after another).

I wanted to see if I would get as defensive about Canada's shortfalls as some Brazilians have about frustrations or just experiences that I have commented on. I started reading the blog So, Are You New Here, which is about an American girl living in Calgary. I like her observations and certainly can't say I've been offended.

It's true that I have not finished my research - I still need to read my Will Ferguson books that I brought back this summer to get the full picture...

I also purchased his hits How to Be a Canadian and Beauty Tips from Moose Jaw ...

But the real dirt was found on the boards...  On the British Expat Boards under the topic "What's Wrong With Canada?": (My comments are italicized in brackets).

1. They wear their trousers too short. (LMAO & Hadn't noticed this myself!)
2. Public bathrooms have big open spaces between the wall panels. (Hadn't noticed this myself, but find it funny because everyone finds Canadians to be such prudes!)
3. People will not tell you what they really think of you - they are way too polite.
4. Too many immigrants. (This on a board for potential expats!)
5. Its got a right wing Prime Minister who has George W Bush as his political hero. (sic)
6. Fast food servers who couldn't get your order right if their life depended on it. (Totally agree)
7. Horrendous cell / mobile phone costs. I mean come on, who pays to receive a call. (Multiple mentions of this and all are justified, totally true).
8. Too much deadly fast food. (True, but also a choice to eat it...)
9. Cinnamon with everything. (Really? I am HOPING this is true, maybe then I can find that cinnamon ice cream that I love so much here in Rio!)
10. If I may state the obvious, it's ****ing cold here. (True! But a person hopefully would know this before moving there!)
11. They don't have proper bacon here. Just the streaky stuff. (There were a NUMBER of mentions of this - now I want to know what UK Bacon is like!)
12. Orange cheese....Whats that all about?
13. The radio. I now live in a place where they play Heart and other eighties soft rock on the radio. And not on golden oldie shows - as a normal part of the playlist. (Uh oh I am totally that demographic they are serving... I love Heart!)
14. All pizza features meat in some form. (Ok I am pretty sure this is just simply not true. All pizza joints I've ever been to have had a vegetarian or just plain cheese option).
15. There's still snow on the ground in April. (True story! But again... see #10.)
    
16. Tim Hortons coffee is pretty bad. (Agreed! Ok, not that I drink coffee, but everything there is awful besides a bagel.  I am Canadian and do not understand the Tim Horton's thing. The person who wrote #6 must have been talking about Timmy's...)
17. The standard of driving is dreadful, canadians may be polite to your face, but become rude arrogant &%#%# when in a car! (Agreed! Holy road rage. Don't even get me started on the tailgating truckers on mountain roads).
    
18. Poutine is truly gross. (I have actually never had poutine).
19. Inappropriate use of the "awesome" (Haha I believe it.)
20. Shops that dont open til noon on sundays.
21. eh! (No comment... )
22. The incessant droning of community helpers, unions, quangos, not-for-profit NGOs and special interest groups trying to get you to do something a particular way. (I've said many times that in my opinion, Canada is too socialist...)
23. Phone charges, homeless people, bank charges, crap driving, gangland violence, everywhere shutting early, interventionist government, institutional racism, jobsworth attitude, RCMP corruption, more homeless people.
24. Maple syrup in baked beans (I have not experienced this myself, but I am not big on the baked bean thing).
25. The KFC isn't as good.  (Ok I believe you.)
26. Cream cheese icing on cinnamon buns. (Now that you mention it, I miss this. Love cream cheese icing, but like cheesecake, not to mention baked beans and poutine, it's not for everyone.)
27. There's humour but it's different. Corner Gas, Little Mosque on the Prairie, etc. (Personally I don't watch these shows so can't comment).
28. Banks are the biggest rip of merchants out, all 5 big CDN banks I beleive are in the top 7 most profitable in the world. (True story!)
29. As much as it says you must be fluent in English or French to get in here its amazing how many people can get a job in the GTA with a complete crap grasp of the English language to the point you cant understand them, if your going to move to a country learn the lingo! (So true!)
30. I wish Canadians were more supportive of their own culture. (Another legitimate point!)
31. Canadians are obsessed with community events, helping their neighbours, and going overseas to contribute to/help less-fortunate people.

Interesting, for sure.

From the very tongue-in-cheek blog "Stuff White People Like" - #75 Threatening to Move to Canada

So, what was the verdict? Well honestly the complaints were pretty boring, except for the short pants one.  The rest of them - things I complained about myself when I lived there!

Passports and Babies...

At the event we attended on Thursday night, we spoke at length with a woman from the Canadian Consulate. It turns out she will be the one we need to speak with once our baby is born, about getting our baby its Canadian citizenship and passport.

We had been planning to take the little one on a vacation to Canada once it turned 3 months old (the most widely-recommended youngest-safe-to-fly-a-newborn-14-hours age I can seem to find) to meet our families. 

We assumed (why oh why would we? I know, I know) that we could initially just get our baby a Brazilian passport and a visa to enter Canada. We were wrong. We will need for the baby to already at that point carry both Brazilian and Canadian passports.  Apparently Brazil will not let the baby out without a Brazilian, and Canada will not let the baby in without a Canadian. I specifically asked about the "visa" to visit Canada with option on a Brazilian passport but was assured we'd be denied.

Once the time comes I will of course keep you all posted on how long this in fact will actually take. I am keeping my fingers crossed that our child gets to meet its family before its first birthday ;)

Feedback: I am very interested in any of your comments as always, but specifically would find comments on experiences with first long-haul travel with babies helpful, as well as any experiences anyone might have with how long this passport issue has taken in the past if you've had to do it.

Tipping/Gratuity/Gorjeta for Christmas

I have heard a bunch of different information on this topic from different people so I thought I'd throw it out there for discussion, help & advice... What is customary in Brazil when it comes to Christmas tipping or gifts?

For example for...

• Your hairdresser (assuming you had one in Brazil. I don't.)
• Your maid or empregada or fauxineira
• Your doorman or porteira
• Your nanny or baba
• Your Portuguese teacher or professora portuguese
• Your yoga instructor
• Your kid's Capoiera instructor...
• Your secretary (clearly this is more of a bonus or gift situation than "tip" but you get the idea)

What I've heard:

• Brazilians don't tip these people
• Brazilians provide these people with a "13th salary" (or extra month's wages) this time of year

See why I am confused?

I look forward to your comments and I will post again soon letting you know what we did with ours, just for interest's sake.

Small Town Rio

It never fails to amaze me how small the world is. And I am the type to get really excited about coincidences so I live for this stuff...

The first person I met in Rio was a fellow Canadian. One of a total of two I have met since moving here, I might add. She was an enormous help to me when I first moved here and I highly doubt I would have any of the social life I do now if I had not met her.  I was put in touch with her before I moved down here.  Her father and my best friend's father-in-law are close friends and when they learned of two Canadian girls headed for Rio, they figured we should meet. 

The weird connections and coincidences don't end there.  She married her husband on the same day I married mine, and her husband also bought her the same gift that my husband looked at to buy me as a wedding gift (weird!). They have sadly since relocated to Australia, but we do keep in touch, and I am still finding out how small a world it is - I recently found out she even knows my sister-in-law, back home.  So strange!

Our visitors are always amazed at how in a city of several million, we see people we know just walking down the street here in Rio.  It's not that we are winning any popularity contests, really, there are factors I think play into it, specifically:

• It's an "out & about" society - we walk everywhere! So does everyone else.  So we see each other.
• Everyone who we know in Rio pretty much lives in one of about 4 communities. Although many many people call these communities home, they are really not very big as Rio is densely populated.

I met a woman two weeks ago who spends half the year here in Rio and the other half in Connecticut. As she shared more of her story, I was reminded of an article I'd read in the New York Times - which I posted on the blog on May 31st - about a couple who wintered in Rio. Sure enough - same couple!

This one is pretty funny too... I met a girl in the past month or so who keeps cropping up everywhere I am - she left her umbrella at the same table we were sitting at at Parque Lage last weekend, we saw her at the Hippie Fair the next day, we joked we were following one another.  Then I went to the doctor this week and mentioned the people who had referred me to her, she asked if I also knew this girl, as she'd been in the day before... so funny! Then yesterday I found out she really is following my lead - she is expecting too! Yay!

I always thought the best story of "small worlds" was from my fourth grade teacher, Mr. McCormick.  He travelled to Japan and was on the subway, and realized he was back to back with a guy he went to highschool with back in Canada....

So let's hear it - in your experience, is it a small world after all??

Back to Brazil

Because, of course, THAT is what this blog is actually about. Well, supposed to be.  When I am not talking about myself, my baby, my family, my husband, international politics, or, er... food.

So today I went to the physiotherapist, which is actually always a lot of fun.  It's more massage-like than the physio I've had back home, and the two physio's I go to both speak a smattering of English and Portuguese so it's kind of like a mini Portuguese lesson for me and mini English lesson for them.

They were telling me about places to buy baby things here in Rio, and we got talking about bedding. Specifically, sheets.

One of them knew what sheets were but the other thought we'd somehow got onto the topic of diapers. Why? Well in the cute little Portuguese accent, sheet, and sh*t pretty much sound the same! (Kind of like gringoes saying coco and coco...)

So then we got into this pronunciation demo where I tried to show them how to pronounce the difference, about 10 times, so then they each repeated me about 15 times, so you can really see how a bystander walking in might have thought someone really sh*t the bed...

Sheet! Sh*t! Sheet! SH#t!

It was quite amusing...

GPS in RIo

I strongly urge people to be careful if driving in Rio and relying on GPS. Ever seen the episode of the Office where Michael drives into a lake because the GPS tells him to? Well, let's just say you could get yourself into a lot more trouble than that in Rio.

Recently, three Norwegian men had their GPS set to "quickest route" on their way back to Rio from Buzios, the GPS led them into a favela, and their car was shot at, the driver was wounded but luckily survived.  The incident is being blamed on a faulty GPS system but I think it probably genuinely did show them the "fastest route"... not that it was a safe one!

Incidentally I know some people who were making the drive to Buzios and accidentally had their GPS set to "no tolls" so it directed them to go all the way around the bay rather than taking the Niteroi bridge. They quickly realized this and saved themselves several hours of travel in the process! (The toll is definitely worth it!!)

Air Conditioning

I think my in-laws had trouble believing us when we told them how difficult it can be to get even the simplest things accomplished here in Brazil. Luckily for me, I think they gained a bit of appreciation for the situation after this week!

About a month ago I purchased a new air conditioner unit for the master bedroom. The A/C we had in the bedroom was turbo powered and missing the switches which allowed it to be set anywhere in between off and full wind ahead. This led to many sleepless nights where we were either roasting, freezing, or getting up every half hour to turn the unit off or on.  Also led to me waking up with windswept hair on more than one occasion...

The plan was to move this turbo unit into one of our guestrooms which did not have a/c, and put the new one in our room.

After several calls and attempts to get someone in to install the new unit and re-install the old one, and time after time having no one show up (!!!AUGHHHH!!! Will I EVER get used to this?) again on Tuesday, when my housekeeper's son, a plumber, was here doing some odd jobs, I figured, what the heck why not ask if he wants to install the a/c's?

Of course he wanted to.

So he starts by ripping apart the ac spots in the walls in both rooms, during which process he broke a pretty little towel hook that perfectly matched everything in the guestroom.... (no big deal, I tell myself, thinking of the uninterrupted sleep that will soon be mine).  So we have two rooms without a/c installed, but the big square holes for the units exposed.  He then realized he did not have the tools to complete the job that day. I still do not understand this - how does one rip everything apart and then realize something like this.... anyway...at this point my house was a disaster with shreds of packing material, styrofoam packing, sawdust everywhere but he managed to try and tidy up his mess and get the holes covered for the night with a promise to return to finish the job the next day.

The next day he shows up (!!) and installs both units, seals them in, paints around them, I am thoroughly excited.  While he is doing some other little projects I found for him, I happen to go into my bedroom to test out the new a/c unit.  Plugged it in, and went to turn it on and nothing happens.  I assume that he must have been clever and flipped the breaker as to not electrocute himself, and ask him about this and tell him that the unit was not working.  He then comes in and spends at least an hour trying to figure it out, flipped the breakers, tinkered with the outlet, the whole bit.  He THEN informs me that he has of course done everything right, but the air conditioner unit is flawed and needs to be returned to the store.

I am flabbergasted. 

He shrugs, says that this happens all the time. 

Um, if this happens all the time, then why did you not test it before installing it and painting around it and sealing it in and everything???

I pay him and send him along his way.

ANYWAY.

I call my husband and say that I am FINISHED dealing with this A/C unit and it's now in his hands.  He tells me not to worry about it, is sympathetic for my two days just this week I'll never get back that I spent trying to fix this issue (not to mention several others when people didn't show up before!), comes home from work, flips the breaker, turns the A/C on, and finds that it works just fine.

How am I, as a Woman, Treated in Brazil?

This is a topic I hate to generalize on because everyone's experiences are obviously different.  A person who has had a horrible experience in Brazil will generalize differently than I will.  So I will stick to my stories and would like to hear yours too.

First of all, I think I have been treated differently in Rio than I have in other parts of Brazil.  In Rio, in our neighbourhood, I think I have it pretty good.  I don't feel as "harrassed" on a regular basis as I have in other parts of the world (such as Mexico, etc.), and remember, I am the girl who wanders several kilometers on foot every day by herself (if ever there were an opportunity for harrassment). 

I am not saying that men do not show their approval for one's appearance here.  They are not shy.  They do make comments, stare (mostly at your butt rather than your chest, though, which is different than North America!) and some do this hissing thing that kind of freaks me out.  They hiss in the way that people sometimes do to get a neighbour's irritating cat out of their yard, and really put their whole body into it.  After 8 months here, it is still very foreign to me, I find it almost scary. But the hissers are not as common in this area (Leblon) - however whenever I go to Centro to the markets I seem to get hissed at a lot more.

Men on the street often compliment me in English - ie)  "beautiful" - in these cases I get the feeling this might be one of their only English words.  I have light colored hazel-green eyes which often are commented on in Brazil (much more than back home, where my eye color is more common).

I will note as well that the first day my friend J & I got our bikes, as we cruised down Ipanema beach on them we were catcalled more than we ever were walking, maybe men find women more approachable when they are on a bike and "far away" or just don't want to scare you when you are walking right by them?

I would like to mention that in all my time in Rio, I have only been groped by a stranger on the street once, walking along the sidewalk on the beach in Ipanema, he was a vendor.  Luckily I was not alone, I think it would have been much scarier! And really, since that is the worst thing that's really happened to me, I feel pretty lucky.  That could have happened anywhere!

I have read in guidebooks that women should not feel strange about eating out alone in Rio, that it would be treated as completely normal - I agree with this. I feel more comfortable doing this here than I do at home.

When shopping - particularly for big ticket items - I find it handy to throw on a ring on my ring finger.  (I do not normally wear a ring at all here, as I don't really have one I like to wear, mine are back home in Canada in safety deposit). I found that I was given much more attention and help at the stores when I was wearing it vs. not. This was certainly no scientific experiment but I found it to be pretty consistent.

Most of these examples apply to how I am treated when I am alone in Rio (which admittedly is most of the time!), however, when my husband is around and we are out & about, I do notice that he becomes the main focus of the attention of others.  When shopping for furniture with him (one store, after I had spent several weeks scouting things out alone!) the sales person refused to make eye contact with me, answer my questions or even address me.  Big mistake, buddy. Needless to say, we did not buy anything there.  I have also posted in the past about stories about people I know & their drivers, etc. (The husband rules the roost and is the big "chefe" as far as staff is concerned...)

A year and a half ago we were in Salvador at the Sofitel for a week while Mr. DRL was working.  I was on my own at the hotel during the day, and as it's not really in an area one can wander around in, I was kind of trapped there.  Although the two of us had great service anytime we went anywhere in the hotel together, once he was gone for the day it was as though I was invisible.  It would usually take 4 or 5 attempts to be served for lunch.  It was terrible.  I noticed in general while in Bahia, that women really seemed to take a backseat to the men compared to in Rio or Sao Paulo, when it came to service in restaurants (I was always poured wine last, when at a table of all men!).

Although Brazil is known as a macho society, and in many ways it is, happily I don't feel it really affects me on a daily basis. 

Accomplishments

Living abroad has changed my view of what it means to accomplish, well, just about anything.  In my old life, I'd find a sense of accomplishment in being part of a team and accomplishing something like... keeping a company from going bankrupt, landing a stellar new client, hosting a fantastic event, landing a fantastic meeting for a client, or not getting an investment banker to slam the phone down in my ear...

Note: yeah I am pretty glad I no longer work in finance these days... just for the record.

On Friday, I picked our vehicle up from the car dealership where it had been getting a tune-up, drove it to sendas, parked in the parking lot, went in and found turkeys for my Thanksgiving dinner I hosted last night, and drove home - on a Friday night in Rio - in the dark - yes it was my first driving experience in Brazil and therefore why this seemingly mundane event is garnering a blog post of its own...

I felt VICTORIOUS after this event! In fact, I called some of my family in Canada, who were ALL together for Thanksgiving, and shared my accomplishment and joy with them. (And and and...! I found TURKEYS! TWO of them!! And... I saw someone I knew at the store!)

After that conversation, I imagine that much of the turkey dinner conversation may have been speculation about what kind of drugs we are on down in Brazil...  The excitement about seeing someone I knew at the store would have really thrown them for a loop as some of them live in a small town where it's impossible to go buy a litre of milk without having about 9 conversations with people you know who you've run into.

Moving to a foreign country is almost like being a baby again or a small child.  Confusing as hell, and every milestone feels as though it needs to be photographed and written down in the baby book blog. Like... learning to say hi, first full sentence spoken, first full conversation in Portuguese without having to scrunch face to convey confusion, where to buy meat that doesn't smell funny, where to find x,y,& z...

There are so many firsts, and each of them feels like a major accomplishment even though they are all small things we took for granted back home. Thank goodness there are others to share these events with because back home, they are like, yes, kind of like I've seen you do it 1,000 other times?

Iguazu: Visa's, Business & Dogs

The reason we went to Iguazu was to pick up our 5 year visa's so that we can legally be in Brazil and so that Mr. DRL can legally work here (yay!) and start paying taxes in Brazil (boo!).

Our agent picked us up at the airport and took us to the hotel in Argentina.  When crossing the border we did not need to get out of the car nor did anyone come to the car to ensure we were in fact the people on our passports... the agent then asked us to fill out some paperwork that looked suspiciously like preliminary paperwork for a visa application.  Despite the fact that our visa application has been in the works since last November and we have had to prove Mr. DRL's expertise and jump through various hoops already, we thought this could be worrisome yet we decided not to let it rattle us.  We filled out the paperwork the next morning at the consulate, where exactly no one spoke with us, then our agent told us we could leave and he would bring our passports to us at the hotel with the visas in them later that day.  Okay by us!

When it came time to cross the Brazilian-Argentinian border again the following day, again the agent went to the counter and left us in the car.  This time, a fellow came about three steps out of the office to ensure there were in fact two people sitting in the car, but certainly could not have proven our identities from the distance at which he stood.

After jumping through so many hoops and waiting for such a long time it seems laughable to me that we pretty much could have sent stand-ins to pick up our visa's for us.  But I will not complain about something in Brazil being "too easy!" I'll just take it.

I must also comment on the number of cars being waved through the border without even stopping to check in.  It was disturbing particularly when a person considers the amount of illegal arms trading that goes on between South American countries.

Many foreigners living in Rio brought their pets from home.  This process is I would argue more complicated than bringing a child.  It is expensive, time consuming and emotional especially considering people often have to wait to bring their pets down which means a separation from them for a time, or even just sedating the pet for the flight, and apparently not all flights will bring animals down. Watching a number of dogs run wild through the Argentinian - Brazilian border (right at the office!) made me think of these people and their struggles to bring their pets down...

All observations, hoop jumping and surprises aside, we are now legally in Brazil which is a good feeling!

This concludes my little series on Iguazu/Iguassu - if you have any questions feel free to email me or ask in the comment fields.

What must Brazilians make of me?

So earlier this week Mr. DRL asked me to get our cable up and running.  When we first got into our place we had a bundle deal (read: cable hooked up immediately, phone after about 2 weeks, internet after a whopping MONTH.  Um, opposite order would have been JUSTFINE with me!) but ended up getting really ripped off on the phone part and weren't happy with the internet so we switched companies.  But apparently were keeping the cable (and continued to be billed for it) but I guess it didn't work. I wouldn't really know. (I actually do not even know how to turn on our TV... just ask the cable guy...)

So the cable guy comes, I let him in, try to show him around our entertainment system... he gets it all up and running in no time flat and says he didn't see any problems with it.  (Which irritates Mr. DRL who I console by saying - they must have flicked a switch at the head office and turned our cable back on or something!) So then I go to let the fellow out of the building as the porteria was on his lunch break, and I cannot for the life of me get the door unlocked from the inside to let him out.  The cable guy clearly thinks I am nuts.  I end up having to go upstairs and get my remote opener for the big garage door to let him out through there.  When I asked the porteria about it later he said he had oiled the locks after his lunch break... I see.

So basically guy comes to our house to fix the cable which apparently functioned just fine on its own and then gets locked in the building because the crazy Gringa can't get the door unlocked.

What must he make of this...

Attention all Canadian Expats!

For a look at the flip side... the blog of an "expat in Canada" - personally I am calling this research/preparing myself for "repatriation" when I visit home later this summer!

Also - the Canadian Expat Network (an online community for Canadian expats) has announced a "Canada Day Expat Giveaway" - all you have to do to enter is sign up for the network (prizes include flights from Air Canada, gift certificates from NHL, Lululemon, The Bay, Indigo Books, etc.) Click here to sign up! Of course you need to enter before Canada Day, July 1st.

Quote

Life in a Foreign Country...
"...is a dance of submission and resistance. Self-knowledge comes in small repeated shocks as you find yourself giving in easily, with a struggle, or not at all." -Rhiannon Paine

Currently Reading...

a fantastic book.  I would highly recommend it to anyone who is looking into doing a stint as an expat slash foreigner working abroad.  It's called "As the Romans Do" by Alan Epstein, it's about an American family who relocates to Rome.  I haven't been to Rome but after reading this book (well, two thirds of it so far, to be accurate), I am struck by the number of similarities to Rio.  Such as the cafe culture, the way laundry is done, children are treated, meals are eaten, meetings are held...  So, basically I think it would be a good read for someone moving here!  Or for anyone for that matter, as it is very well written.

Manners in Brazil

What’s rude at home is apparently a-ok here (and in some cases vice versa)... we've already covered the "a-ok" hand symbol - considered rude here... 

Some of my other observations:

Things considered very rude in Brazil:

• Picking your teeth
• Touching food with your hands at any time
• Getting  "straight to the point" without warm-up chit-chat
• Dirty fingernails
• Eating in places not "designated" for eating
• Not lining up - I can't believe the order in which people line up to get on the BUS! So organized.
  

Things not considered rude in Brazil (in fact you see these things all the time):

• Picking your butt/nose/genatalia (the  Carioca  book calls it "testicular jiggling")
• Spitting on the street (I can’t tell you how many WOMEN I have seen do this, I am talking about little old ladies!)
• "Snortling" (the loud sound people make like sniffing but worse to clear the snot out of the back of their nose. Apparently not rude here)
• Being late
• Not calling if don't plan to show up for an appointment
• Frequent, long, public displays of affection
• Being direct when receiving services - even just how things are phrased - "I want" instead of "could I please have" etc.
• Not cleaning up after animals... if you catch my drift
  

Business/Cultural Differences and "Good to Know's"

• Avoid wearing green & yellow together as it's the color of the Brazilian flag?
• Purple flowers are used for funerals, so be careful in giving them as gifts
• Greetings (hello's and goodbye's) are much more lively

Other Differences:

• People are much "touchier" here, personal space does not really exist.  People stand very close to you on the street, when speaking to you, and are much more likely to touch your arm or back in conversation than in North America
• Friends and family are priority one.  I think we North Americans can learn from this!

Any additions in the comments section are appreciated as always!

 

 

Cultural Differences with the Help

Although if you read my previous post about the maids and how demanding they are when it comes to cleaning products (they sure seem to have their favorites!), believe it or not I do sympathize with them. Although I am happy that we are "being good citizens" and employing many people, and supporting the Brazilian economy while we are here, I tend to feel guilty when other people are doing things for me, it's taking some time to get used to this.

I feel guilty for having a driver or chauffeur wait while I run errands. This is one of the many things I wonder if I will ever get used to - and one of even more things I don't want to get used to because what kind of person will that make me, I wonder?

Then I think about the alternative for these people...  jobs can be hard to find.
You don't understand gratitude until you live in a developing country, at least I don't think I fully did.

Locals do not seem to have the same attitude towards the help.  I have encountered many who are rude publicly to the help, and to service people in general.  Of course, this does happen in North America as well. But here it seems borderline abusive. There aren't many thank you's either.

I think it's fear.  Fear of acknowledging their presence, fear of becoming them by acknowledging their existance as a human being.

When we were in the aparthotel, we had daily maid service. Every day when she would come, I would wonder why I was so lucky to have the life I do.  And feel guilty for wondering if she took my lululemon capri's that mysteriously went missing.

I often wonder what if I had been born elsewhere, like here in Rio for example.  I think some of the locals are acutely aware of how lucky they are too but instead of expressing it as gratitude choose to separate themselves from it by trying to elevate themselves to a higher level above these people in every way. 

Difficult for me is finding a balance between enjoying this time and everything (the perks) that come with it and not being consumed by the guilt I feel for it when constantly faced with those much less fortunate.  I also don't want to turn my back on them, I want to help and I intend to help.  Where to start is the question.  I am alternately tempted to buy expensive beautiful furnishings for the house and to not buy anything and fill the house instead with poor little brazilians to take care of while we're here.

To live the glamorous Rio life, and to fully enjoy it one must first acquire the skill to at all times turn a blind eye.  At least, if one has a conscience to begin with.

Other notes on this subject - drivers are not considered to be a luxury. Some of them even seems scared: eager to help but remind me a little of (stock) broker's secretaries who are scared there is to much mayo on their asshole boss' sandwich and he is about to throw it in her face one piece of bread at a time in a fit of rage.  They seem scared to make a mistake (it is easy to take a wrong turn in Rio, let's face it) and meek, used to being screamed at or something.  I feel sorry for them!
And there does not seem to be an expected start-end time. The day I bought appliances I was acutely aware of the effect that the ungodly length of time it took might have on my driver - was he missing his daughter's ballet recital so I could get that fridge I really wanted? I'll never know.

Then you see the Brazilionaires as I've taken to calling them, luxury penthouse appartments, helicopters, live-in help galore.  I saw a bus of kids the other day, a luxury bus in fact with individual  tv's, curtains, blankets, the works.  The kids could not have been more than 7 yrs old each and came about halfway up the seat.  The bus was behind a city bus so crammed that people were pretty much smooshed against the glass of the windows.

So despite my frustration with the apparently still-growing mountain of cleaning products (many many more than I have ever owned before, I tell ya!) I am still grateful for the help and can't imagine treating them the way they are apparently accustomed to. 

Perceptions of Foreigners

I had two interesting experiences at Tok & Stok this week which both made me think a lot about how we as foreigners living abroad are perceived. (I now much prefer the term foreigner living abroad than expat.  Expat sounds so smug to me for some reason.  Plus I am still proudly Canadian although I do not currently reside there).  Seeing how Brazilians perceive foreigners living here it makes me think a lot about my own behavior and what kind of footprint we want to leave here in Brazil, and what kind of ambassadors we want to be.  I also have commented on this topic before on other blogs such as Emily & Eric's Adventures, see an excerpt below:

I read part of the comments on the blog and found them to be heartwarming, particularly those about your husband's contributions to the Brazilian economy, bringing his expertise here. It is refreshing to see such a positive attitude towards what foreigners can bring to Brazil rather than the assumption that we are all just here to "take"... All we can do is hope we can all leave this country a little bit better than the way we found it, as we would hope to in any community we were part of.

-Back to Tok & Stok. 
Both incidents involved issues with payments (which is apparently very common there and seems to be happening to everyone, they really really need to do something about it but that is besides the point...)

With the first incident, I had a very large order and my credit card declined (I just phoned and answered a few questions and it subsequently went through).  The fellow I was dealing with spoke very little English, I explained to him - or was trying to - that it was a foreign credit card and so that was the problem and was about ask him to try it again in a minute, and joked and said I was a gringo - when he cut me off and said "I know, I know, you have lots of money." dismissively as though he hears this every day.   And maybe he does, given the fact the more time I shop in Barra the more English I hear (I checked out WalMart yesterday, that was interesting!) but I could not help but wonder who these gringoes are who say things like this to people??

I did not have the heart to tell him that if I had what I would call "lots of money" I would NOT be shopping at Tok & Stok (the slightly upscale version of Ikea...)!

The second incident happened last night (again at Tok & Stok) where I had yet another large order and a driver waiting, and the credit card machines were not working.  They said they could only take cash or a cheque, I happened to have one of my husband's signed cheques with me, so thought perfect, no problem! They would not accept it even if we got signed permission, etc. etc. no exceptions even though their machines were down.  They told me to come back tomorrow.  I said I could not, as Tok & Stok is delivering furniture to my house and won't tell me what time they are coming, so I can't come back tomorrow, I can't really leave the house! (Plus in an effort to create some efficiency, since I knew I'd basically have to hang here all day, I scheduled in other tradespeople and appointments too). They brought out a girl who spoke English who incredulously asked me, "Well don't you have people to take care of these things for you?"

Ummmm... no?

Are we as foreigners seen as spoiled rotten helpless people with endless cash, help and mega-attitudes (even bragging about endless cash)... ?

Some people come to a foreign country to learn more about the culture and experience something new and exciting.  Yes, some come solely for the financial upside. I think doing anything solely for the financial upside is crazy! The business case for coming is made based upon bringing knowledge and expertise not currently available in-country.  In other words, helping a country to become better or do things more efficiently.

But the little things matter too and it matters to me immensely  what kind of footprint I leave behind in Brazil, as it does in any community I am a part of.  Feedback is a gift that makes us see our actions in ways we do not have the capacity for ourselves. 

I don't have any easy answers as to how to make me being here easier on the Brazilians or how to make Brazil a better place.  But I am determined to not be "that gringo!" 

Brazilians?
How do you perceive foreigners living in Brazil? What makes them more annoying or less annoying?

Foreigners living abroad?
What do you do to make your footprint a "positive one" in your new country?