Daily Life in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Moon over Ipanema

I meant to post this on Saturday to my twitter feed but something went wrong. Terrible quality shot but you can see how HUGE the moon was on Saturday night (one day after the full moon).

Moon over Ipanema

I meant to post this on Saturday to my twitter feed but something went wrong. Terrible quality shot but you can see how HUGE the moon was on Saturday night (one day after the full moon).

Arvore de Natal - Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas - Rio de Janeiro

Tonight is the lagoa tree lighting, or as one friend put it: the world's largest artificial floating Christmas tree makes its way onto the Lagoa and the lights are turned on in a dramatic fashion surrounded by a blaze of fireworks....

If you're in Rio, head down to the lagoa today, it is truly a spectacle to see. The fireworks are set to start at 8 pm.

 

My little Brazilian likes her nails CLEAN, thank you very much.

I may have mentioned in the past the obsession Brazilian women have with their nails. The Canadoca is no exception. It used to be really difficult to get her to sit still long enough to trim her little nails. Actually, I've even referred to it as the weekly dogfight in the past. Not so much anymore now that I've discovered something about that little Canadocers. She's even more Brazilian than I thought. Can't stand even a little bit of dirt under her nails. This - along with her obsessive teeth brushing - is not a bad thing. I can think of several worse stereotypically Brazilian qualities she could have. But we won't talk about those today.

So the recipe for giving an 18 month old a manicure without any whining, screaming, or even wriggling? Feed child acai for breakfast, let her play with it with her fingers, let her realize the purple under her nails is not going to go away on her own no matter how many times we wash hands (in Canadoca's case it bothered her so much that she apparently pointed it out to the babysitter all morning! Even tried to convince us it was hurting her!), then enjoy the peace and quiet of having her relaxed and cuddly in my arms while I cut her nails without any fuss...

I love my little Brasileira.

 

Royal Couture Connections...

Even the royal engagement has a Brazilian twist - the Issa dress Kate Middleton wore for her engagement announcement to Prince William is by a Brazilian designer, Daniella Helayel:

In Rio, Issa items can be purchased at from the store Alberta, which has locations in Shopping Leblon and in Ipanema (Visconde de Piraja 302). In the states, it can be purchased at Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus. 

Strangely enough, on a similar note, I just discovered that a friend is designing men's clothing for Hardy Amies, known as the couture house of the Royal family... maybe he will be designing some things for the royal wedding....

Found: A Great English Speaking Hairdresser in the Zona Sul!

I have had a ton of requests for a good English speaking, reasonable hairdresser in Rio de Janeiro. Until today, I really couldn't help out with that, had two previous experiences, and in one case received a truly terrible cut, in both cases it was terribly expensive. Finding a good hairdresser here is very exciting because it is not an easy endeavour. When I moved to Rio I had a short bob hairstyle and went to the person who was written up in a bunch of publications as being the best at cutting short hair in Rio. Let's just say I left completely disappointed - a major mess was made, which luckily I was able to have fixed in short order upon reurning to Canada.

Today was a much different experience. A great experience! I had my hair cut by Tatana (pronounced like Tatiana) at HBD Spa in Ipanema. She did a fantastic job. She is an incredibly attentive stylist and very genuine person as well, I really enjoyed her and she seems very passionate about what she does. 

So do go see her! When you do, tell her you read about her on the blog. 

Tatana:

HBD Spa
Rua Barao de Jaguaripe 182
Ipanema
2513-5293 or 2522-0669
www.hbdspa.com.br

 

Things to Learn From Brazilians

Some things I've picked up - for which I'll be forever grateful...

- The value of well-designed closets. They've figured it, as I've mentioned before in a prior post. The Canadoca actually has a play area in my closet! No, you do not need to call social services, the closet is just that sweet.

- The importance of fibre in the diet. Feijoada, fruit, acai, quinoa, say no more.

- Essential oral hygiene. After-meal teeth brushing parties in the office bathrooms and dental floss in public washrooms. I have mentioned the Canadoca's brazilianness in her food choices but forgot to mention until now her absolute obsession with brushing her teeth. "Teeth" is also one of her favorite words of the moment...

- Smaller swimsuit bottoms somehow actually seem to make your butt look better/smaller. Funny how that works...

- Stand by your woman. After reading about this, I might need to Brazilianize my hubby a bit in this department! I bet there's not a couple in the world who hasn't had an argument about how one did not properly stand up for the other some awkward social or family situation. Well, maybe not this couple... What's am I talking about? It seems as though two US air marshals arrested the wife of a Brazilian judge on a flight to Rio recently. Why? She was reportedly intoxicated, unruly, and trying to break into the galley looking to score more booze. Before we judge, let's remember it's a 10 hr flight from anywhere in the states ;)  I guess I SHOULD mention that she assaulted and, um, bit one of them. She happened to be on the same Houston-Rio Continental connection that I normally take.... now why can't anything as interesting as this happen when I'm on board! Like I said - a 10 hr flight - could use some entertainment! She has her husband not only just give someone a piece of his mind upon her arrival in Rio, but ARREST the air marshals for assault, took their passports and everything! They ended up FLEEING the country (and the bogus charges).  So, fellas, let this be yet another lesson to you from the Brazilians - next time your wife asks you to speak up for her when your mother throws her a rotten dig, just do it, and remember it's not as though she asked you to initiate an international relations crisis on her behalf. I get that this guy may have taken Honor Thy Wife  a bit over the top.... But who wants to argue with a biter?  You can read more about this incident here.

 

There is a Brazilian expression that Elizabeth Gilbert (Eat, Pray, Love) has been known to share:

If you’re smart, you learn from your mistakes, but if you’re a genius, you learn from other people’s mistakes.

Cobal!

Though it's not far from where I live, I visited the market at Cobal for the very first time last week. Amazing! Many hard-to-fin items and gourmet treats. I'll let the photos do most of the talking...

Gorgeous (albeit a bit pricey) flowers...

Amazing looking treats...

Which can be found here:

Now I know it has been keeping you up at night, folks... wondering where to buy sour cream in Rio? Look no further than Delly Gil at Cobal... 

A New Experience with Selaron

I went to the steps with a friend and her sister visiting from the states a couple weeks ago, and it proved that every experience in Rio is a little different. I take guests to Centro all the time, and do many of the same things over and over again, but there is always something slightly different and new, this time was not exception!

Selaron let us work on his masterpiece with him!

 

 

 

 

As you can see, he kept a close eye on us to make sure it was just right! What a character he is!

Casa Cor

First thing's first. Who can tell me what kind of little critter this is that I spotted at Casa Cor last weekend?

Kind of like a big chipmunk but a small tail - anyway!

What the heck is Casa Cor? It's basically a huge showhome of living spaces both outdoor and indoor put together by a range of designers, plus restaurants and a few stores. Held in the Palacete Modesto Leal in Laranjeiras - gorgeous. Info on the residence itself can be found here. 

We went last Sunday, quite a nice little outing which we concluded with Chinese food at the Chinese Cultural Center in Tijuca.

If you've been - what was your favorite space or decorative feature? Mine was the striped wall when you come upstairs with the variety of photos on it. I found a photo of it online, which made me happy since I decided to play by the rules for once and obey the no photos please policy...  I want to recreate something like that when we settle eventually.

Mr. DRL liked the ambiance of the large blue living space on the first floor with the big windows. We both also liked the framed TV set in the upstairs living room. We both liked how many of the living spaces included desk spaces which were both functional and inclusive to the room yet not a focal point. My desk would definitely have to get tidier to be included in such a space ;)

Go check it out for yourself! It's a big gorgeous mansion in Laranjeiras, all decked out.On the 13th, many of the featured pieces will be sold....

Runs: until October 13, every day with the exception of October 11th.

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 12-10. Sunday, 10-8. 

Location: Rua das Laranjeiras, 304 - Laranjeiras.

Tix: At the door. Tues-Friday, R$30  Weekends & Holidays, R$35

Parking: Valet available, R$15

Santa Teresa Art Walk

Mr. DRL and I seem to miss this every year - a great chance to check out some different artists in Santa Teresa, this weekend and next, click here for more details. 

 

The Playground at Jardim Botanico

Though I had been to the Jardim Botanico on a number of occasions and had even taken the Canadoca there plenty, my first time at the playground there was just a couple of weeks ago. I'll be back soon! What a gorgeous park - and they have PROPER BABY SWINGS, people!!! Not something that you come across often in Rio.

As a funny little aside that struck me as typical - when I entered the park that particular day, a fellow approached me and asked if I would like to have a guided tour as he knew all about the park, it's history, he could really show me around, etc. Politely declining, I asked him if he might be so kind as to point me in the direction of the playground. He didn't know one existed! Eek! Glad I didn't take that tour...

Without further adieu, here are my photos of the playground at Jardim Botanico.

 

Brazilians of all ages LOVE babies - check out my friend getting swarmed by some older kids. Her baby IS adorable....

Follow up that playdate with lunch at Da Graca (typical Brazilian fare) on the other side of the Jardim - Rua Pacheco Le�o, 780 and you have a very nice little day on your hands!

 

From the Camera of...

Dear unsuspecting people who inadvertently leave their camera with me,
I am nosy. I will snoop. I will also ruthlessly take whatever content you might have for my blog. When I scroll through your photos you'd better believe I am hoping there are no late night home videos on there, if you catch my drift. Luckily in this case there weren't, just some gorgeous shots that show off some of the best of what Rio has to offer. Thanks, Tia Pandy! I hope you don't mind ;)  

 
 

Waterfall Waterslides & More: Our weekend in Visconde de Maua

Recently we went away for the weekend to Visconde de Maua. We enjoyed the cooler temperatures, had a fire in our room, ate a lot of fondue, watched the world cup game with the locals, and most importantly: went on the waterfall waterslide. Best waterslide EVER.

What to tell you about V de Maua... well the scenery is gorgeous, it's quiet and feels super safe, there is plenty to do if you like hiking/waterfalls/the outdoors, the roads are HORRIBLE (windy, bumpy, steep dirt roads with gigantic potholes). It's definitely worth seeing, in fact we'd like to return sometime.

Deciding where to stay having not been there before was also not easy. Now, having been there, I'd stay one of two places: 1) RIGHT beside the waterfall waterslide or 2) within walking distance of the two little towns called which are connected by a footbridge (and or on either side of the Rio-Minas Gerais border). I liked the MG side better. We stayed in the middle of nowhere which was nice and quiet but not exactly convenient, especially with the state of the roads and how much driving was required to go there and see the waterfalls as it was. Here is a map.

 

Other highlights: our meal at Gosta Com Gosta Comida Mineira in Vila de Visconde de Maua. One of the best Brazilian meals I've had. Reportedly the best Minas food in all of Brazil (and it's not even in MG). The Canadoca also enjoyed herself there and I don't think I've ever seen her eat so much in one sitting...   Here's the web site. 

Below: Cachoeira Santa Clara

   

From above the main falls of Santa Clara
 

Jungle shot
 

Finally we are at the waterslide: Escorrega
 

This guy was fun to watch. Here he is going down the slide on his feet.

 

The full slide.
 

Here Mr. DRL is getting plunged into the icy cold water. Remember, I'm from Canada. When I say icy cold water, that water is cold. The pressure of the water from the falls pushes you down pretty deep!
 

We watched the Brazil-Ivory Coast game at this little place. The people were wonderful.
 

Rachel over at Rachel's Rantings in Rio did a little post "For the Canadians" this week where she mentioned our national love for Homo Milk (as in homogenized or whole milk). We now also love Homo Bikers (see below). Just a couple of little things from the stack of brochures we returned home with...

 

Some of the many waterfalls you can visit:

Before we visited, I looked through all of our Brazil/S.A. travel books for recommendations/suggestions. Not a one! Didn't even think to crack open our Danusia Barbara or Circuito Elegante books but was flipping through the other day and they both had some, which I'll share:

In the area, Danusia Barbara recommends:

• Babel
• Bistro das Meninas
• Capril Deville
• Capril Maluvito's
• Gosto com Gosto (I also recommend!)
• Pousada Casa Bonita
• Pousada No Caminho do Marimbondo
• Pousada Terra da Luz
• Pousada Terras Altas
• Pousada Tijupa
• Pousada Verde Que Te Quero Ver-Te
• Warabi

Circuito Elegante recommends:

• Rosamarinus
• Champignon
• Serra Fluminense

Rio Feira Antigo - Lapa Antique Fair

Finally after over 2 years of Rio living, we made it down to Lapa on the first Saturday of the month for the antique fair. This past Saturday was a great day for it - sunny but not too hot.

   

We strolled through the streets listening to the sounds of Brazilians watching the Argentina - Germany game. I didn't realize the extent of the rivalry between Brazil and Argentina until I saw hoards of Cariocas jumping up in down gleefully roaring with laughter each time Germany scored... 

There are quite a number of antique stores in the area - I will certainly return! I would like to find a few pieces to take with us when we move.

 

Lapa's architecture is quite impressive.
 

I really wanted these oversized bottle openers. Until I found out they were R$200 each (or the three for $R500).




 

There are so many amazing ornate pieces in Brazil.
 

Some unique very-Rio bags at the Fair.

 

Mr. DRL and I often have "if we had a cabin" musings... such as: "If we had a cabin, we'd want to put a table like this in the kitchen..."


 

On my list of things to take back: Ornate headboard. You'll find them in every antique store here and I imagine painting them a bright glossy color for a kids' room...
 

Many antique stores I've had luck in are set up like this. The best stuff is usually buried in the back under 2 inches of dust and 2 stories worth of furniture stacked on top of it.

Maclaren & Anthropologie's Rio Sets

I was online looking for an umbrella stroller for the Canadoca yesterday morning when I came across this photo on Maclaren's web site:

Shot in Rio! Distinctively Copacabana.

I'd also been told months ago about this catalogue from Anthropologie (April) that was shot here, it's gorgeous... here are some of my favorite photos from it:

In Lapa below the aqueduct

I think the one on the left is in Santa Teresa, the one on the right is of course somewhere in Ipanema or Leblon.

On the left we have the escadaria selaron, anyone know where the one on the right was taken?

Dois Irmaos.

The clothes are pretty darn cute too...

Rio the Movie

I MUST see this when it comes out. (Though from what I found on the internet the release date is nearly a year away). Looks so cute from the preview and I love how realistic the mountains look!

Click here to watch the trailer.

What you DON'T see in Rio

Topless women. Sorry guys, hope that does not impact your Brazilian vacation plans? You won’t see it here, unless you go to a specific nude beach down the coast... Reportedly women are regularly arrested for attempting it on Copacabana and Ipanema.

You will also be hard pressed to find:

• Underwire or support of any kind in a bikini top.
• Bikini Bottoms that cover 50% of each cheek. Just doesn’t seem to happen.

Window Shopping in Ipanema

For those wondering what current fashions are like in Brazil, what to wear in Rio, and the like. The Canadoca and I did a little window shopping the other day and thanks to the camera on my blackberry, you can feel like you came along for the walk (sem getting caught in the rain like we did!)....

Enjoy~

Bigamia:

Mercatto:

ATEEN:

ANIMALE:

 

bumbum:

FOLIC:

Blueman:

British Colony:

 

Body Up

Chifon:

Sandpiper (the guy's shirt says "Don't Waist Your Time I'm Ready")

Myth:

Cavendish:

Checklist:

Totem:

Sacada:

Oh, Boy!

Shop 126

Of course I included some shoes as well but really these should be a separate post... will get on that soon! Just the window at Mr. Cat for now:

Notes from Readers

I receive emails daily from readers of this blog. I really appreciate it all! Yes, even the ones that criticize the blog. For they too have their purpose...

This email in particular I wished to share with my readers, (its author OK'd it).

Trying to better understand Brazil, its culture and its citizens is a huge part of my journey. Emails like this help. So without further adieu...

"As I said in my commentary I found your blog on the site expat-blog. I was searching information about Canada (what a coincidence!), I study architecture at university and I’ve read somewhere that in Canada, as in Brazil, there is a huge market of work for people in my area (architecture/engineering). So that’s why I have interest in move for Canada. I was thinking if I should or not send this e-mail to you, but I decided it isn’t a big deal, if I had a blog I’d love to receive some of my readers.

Foremost I’d like to introduce myself, my name is X (18) and I study English for few years (about 3), so be tolerant with my English. I’ve read all your blog since the first post, and some comments of the visitors in the most “polemic” ones, I’m happy because I understood around 70% of everything you wrote. Of course I didn’t agree with every single opinion of yours, but I think you were very fair and exact in the most of the things you said, and that’s something very rare for a foreign – I say this by self experience. I “worked” as a volunteer in an Interchange company called AFS. For me it would be a good way to improve my English skills and make a kind of cultural share, I also hosted a boy from Germany for one year (the worst experience in my whole life). I can say I talked with many kind of people from many countries: Sweden, Canada, Australia, Germany, Italy, France, Indonesia, Iceland etc. Talk with them about Brazil was a frustrating experience, it was the same stereotyped vision (I’m truly tired of this), I think they weren’t mature enough for an experience like that.

In one of your posts you said something about Brazilians be very negative with their own country, I think it is absolutely true (with some exceptions), I usually say the patriotism of Brazilians is limited to football, for sure it is the only thing Brazil is 100% good in the world. It is very easy understand why Brazilians are very negative with Brazil. We see the problems of Brazil every day on TV: corruption, urban violence, drugs, pollution etc, add to this the fact of really few people say good things about Brazil, so it created a culture of “complaint”, people sit on their chairs in front of the TV, or in bar, hear the problematic news and just shake their heads (the most of times rolling their eyes) and say: “Oh, it just happens in Brazil, in a developed country it would never happens” or worst “This country isn’t a serious country… tsc tsc”, well, in my opinion it is the most typical Brazilian, and it is the type of Brazilians that Brazil doesn’t need. The most of people here ignores the situation of our “neighbors” in South America, mostly of them with a worst situation than Brazil. My uncle works in a oil company, he lived in Angola (also speaks Portuguese) for two months, and he said he looks different for the Brazilian poverty after know the real poverty there, the favelas in Brazil are bad, but I dare to say it is a better situation than the mostly slums in Africa and India, for exemple, here the favelas has a small (but present) structure, with sidewalks, small hospitals, schools, a modest trade, lan houses and also banks (the example in the bank Bradesco in the Heliópolis favela, São Paulo)! While in the other countries they literally lives over their garbage. I can be wrong, but it is how I think.

It’s difficult be proud of Brazil (and it is not my case, I love my country and I know the exact position of Brazil in the world) when the people has the addiction of say bad things about the country, minimizing the good things and maximizing the problems. Many Brazilians has the puerile fantasy that the other countries in the world, specially Europe and North America are just perfect, and the wrong/bad things just happens in Brazil. We know that’s not true, I visited Portugal and I were really impressed with the newspapers, it could be perfectly a Brazilian newspaper, the same things: corruption, violence, poverty etc (in Portugal 18% – data of 2009 – of the population lives in misery, something difficult to understand, Portugal is member of EU). The corruption in Italy is the same or bigger than in Brazil, but nobody knows about it, right? We think Brazil is a very corrupted country (I’m not saying it isn’t true) because the people know it, the newspapers say the “secret” cases all the time, and in my opinion this freedom of expression is one of the positive things in Brazil. Some people say: “Oh, in the government of Lula there was much corruption”, I simply don’t agree, the difference of the Lula’s government and the government of the previous president (Fernando Henrique Cardoso) was because in Lula’s time we knew all the cases, while in the other government many of the news were censured or hidden. Your father said the drivers here are mad, well in Italy is twice worst, and Italy is a developed country.

In beginning I didn’t agree of Rio hosts the Olympic Games in 2016, for the same reasons of all people that were against: favela. Slums are the most shaming thing for me about Brazil, but now I’m 100% into the idea of those games here, and I totally agree with Lula when he said those games could make better the low self-confidence of the Brazilian people and their relationship with the nation. I am very impressed with all the projects for Rio, that goes beyond the stadiums and arenas. The security project let me with my mouth wide open, they will contract a company of NY to project the security system of Rio, this company is the same that made the project of the New Yorker security system in the government of Rudolph Giuliani. I know the current security in NYC isn’t the same of the Canadians cities, but ask any New Yorker and you will know the big difference of this before and after his government. Rio is planning with the help of the federal government the most modern department of public safety that already existed in Brazil. For you have an idea, they will install pickups sound of shots throughout the city. Just a shot sound be captured, the center will be immediately activated and the next cameras will monitor the location of the shot and within minutes a car will come to the site. This system exists only in Israel and in U.S. (If I’m not wrong). It is just about the security, the public transport (don’t forget the high speed train) and many other things will be improved.

When Rio de Janeiro won the games many television reporters of many countries arrived in the city to make a “special” about it, and the biggest example was given by an Australian television, they came here and just showed the worst side of Rio, the most deprived areas. OK, it will help a lot Rio with tourism. When I knew it, I were very sad, because as a writer said “being Brazilian is an ache”, this ache begins without much fanfare, partly in the belly, partly through the stomach. Then it goes and settles in the left breast. So It’s how the pain of being Brazilian looks like. Give up of Brazil is easy, but the pain of being Brazilian that’s more complicated. I just hope this e-mail don’t look very tireful for you, I liked very much your blog and how you write, and it is good to know your baby is partly Brazilian! But I want to say, before you move from Brazil, you need to travel to the historical cities in the state of Minas Gerais, such as Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, São João Del-Rey, Diamantina, etc."

I replied to my reader and asked him what he thought would help his country. Here is what he had to say:

"Well, I don't think there is a thing that can help, Brazil is in the right way to development now, if you read more about PAC you will find out, it is a program to improve many areas: health, education, security etc, it is like a list of goals, and some of those goals are already being made. This year it will be the presidential elections, an important step for the future in this moment we are living."

Shoes!

I get a lot of hits from people looking for information on Brazilian shoes. So I thought I should feature some of the newer additions to my closet..

The first pair is from a new spot called Ferni, they have a flagship store in Ipanema (Rua Visconde de Piraja, 493 A). Gorgeous store with an over the top pushy sales staff (even for Brazil). Very reasonable prices, especially for the quality. www.ferni.com.br

Next up we have a neutral colored pair of heels from Andarella. Shoes in this color are very popular here and it's easy to see why - they go with virtually everything (and, apparently make your legs look longer!) www.andarella.com.br

 

Finally, a pair I picked up in Buenos Aires in October from Sibyl Vane:
 

Went back to BA last weekend, and picked these up from Prune.

I'll tell you all about my trip tomorrow.

Where to Buy Flowers in Rio

Now, I haven't personally been there, but enough of my friends have - and rave about it - for me to recommend the Cadeg Flower Market. Apparently it is where a lot of the flower vendors buy their stock, and the prices are fantastic and the selection and freshness can't be beat. It is recommended to visit there in the morning.

Click here to visit the official site.

Address: Rua Capitão Félix, 110 - Rio de Janeiro, RJ
By Metro: get off at Triagem station + bus 474
Flowers: Galpão (annex- Feira das Flores): Mon-Sat from 04:00am - noon; Sun closed.

Dresses of Nuance

It's been awhile since I posted one of these:

 

Brazilian Bride

No groom in sight, but this bride was having photos done at the Jardim Botanico the other day when I was there. I thought that all of that bling was an interesting contrast with the natural surroundings.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: All about those Cariocas

I frequently get emails and comments from Brazilians letting me know that I've got it all wrong and that my perceptions are way off, I anticipate that this post may attract some attention of the sort. Try not to be offended. Most of these comments are very positive! Keep in mind that these are the results of a survey (which, by the way, I did not actually participate in!). I wanted to know what the expats think of the Cariocas they have come across. Specifically, I asked: Based on your encounters and experiences, what are your thoughts about Brazilians, or Cariocas? Are they friendly? All observations welcome!

Here is what the expats had to say:

• Based on only 5 months of living here I would say I have a split decision on this. Some Brazilians that I meet are friendl and willing to struggle through a conversation in rough Portuguese and others dont even try.
• I feel they are friendly and outgoing especially if you have a baby with you.
• God love em
• Warm, open, encouraging and with a commitment to joyfulness
• An incredible mix of people that create a culture that is vibrant, welcoming and exciting. I plan to retire here now. I keep a group of close friends in the US, but my friends in Rio have become more than 'friends' - they are family, and embrace me as such.
• Cariocas are very friendly once you get to know them. The trick is getting/having the opportunity to meet them.
• Friendly, helpful especially if i run into communication difficulties
• Very polite and helpful on the surface but rarely actually go the extra mile and develop true relationships. That may be due to the fact Rio is such a large city, so people are less patient with others sometimes and also that possible friends live so far away (especially through traffic) that it is hard to invest time in relationships. I think there is also a level of prestige through the city and closes people's minds to certain relationships, but hard to say.
• Brazilians are the friendliest people in the world by far!
• I have a 5-month old baby... YEAH, friendly! "Ay meu deus, que bonitinho, que coisa mais linda, que fofa," and then that psspsspsspsspss sound that drives him wild. Can't imagine a friendlier spot for a baby.
• they are very casual, a bit more than I wuld like; this translate on being late, talking a lot louder than other nationalities, not caring for lanes or lines, not being consider for the non-smoking ones,
• Sometimes, they need some time to warm up with foreigners but then they are very friendly and interested in the other.
• In general, they are friendly people and are very helpful. However, when making friends with them it's difficult. Many are so attached to their existing friends and especially family (most have never lived outside of Rio). They are quick to criticize anything about their own or other countries ( and are a very passive people and don't seem to protest), but get extremely defensive if you insult theirs.
• Generally Carioca's are friendly however they can interfering too.
• Extremely friendly and are happy to assist as I cannot speak their language.
• Very friendly and helpful, somewhat too relax and takes time
• Very friendly, in particular if you speak Portuguese.
• Cariocas are an incredible mixture of beeing very friendly, always helpful, most affectionate with kids, relaxed, easy with laughing, but at the same time beeing ignorant, selfish and not able to use the indicators when driving their car. Walking in the lowest pace ever seen, but for what ever reason always in a hurry when crossing the streets? Not able to let you through with your stroller in this tiny supermarket alleys and never punctual. But I love the hugging and kissing and that they always take their time to chat.
• outgoing, open, friendly, sometimes insincere, straightforward about your appearance, talkative, malandros, fun, arrogant, beautiful
• Cariocas are generally friendly and informal. They do lack what Europeans and North Americans would consider "common courtesy" of saying "excuse me" or "I'm sorry" for pushing through a crowd or bumping into someone. They also are extremely reluctant to acknowledge a mistake and would instead argue with you, offering one excuse after another. This can be quite frustrating, particularly in the service industry. Also, traffic is chaotic because of the "me first" attitude combined with ignorance of traffic rules. Otherwise, life is good in Rio!!
• Brazilians don't seem to like to do things on their own - they seem to like to do everything in groups. The wealthy seem to grow up thinking that no rules apply to them and there is always a way around things. Personal responsibility seems to be a totally foreign concept. The poor seem to work really hard and get nowhere and the rich seem to get richer. Yes, in general, Cariocas are friendly and appreciate smiles and chatting.
• Cariocas (who definitely are different than many other Brazilians) are extremely cordial and friendly but only on the surface. It is nearly impossible to develop a friendship with a Carioca.
• Friendly with the ones that are co-workers, not so friendly if you do not speak their language and that is understandable.
• Very friendly and helpful especially if you test your portuguese on them :-)
• Open minded, open hearted, well traveled, fun loving, bothered by the security issues of there beautiful city, very proud of Brazil, in-direct about embarassing or confrontation topics, ie they would never tell you that your zipper is open
• Generally very friendly, although they generally have a low grade of commitment. Once you're in the family, you're in and will be "adopted' much more than is likely in Europe or North-America.
• Very friendly but it is difficult to form great relationships because of the language barrier.
• very friendly, but language is a challenge
• Love Rio and for the most part people are very friendly.
• Cariocas have a basic "unawareness" of others. Not necessarily rude, but just completely unaware.
• Yes, very friendly and helpful. Also, those that I met and became friends with, still keep in touch now that I've returned home.
• friendly, but offer unsolicited advice
• Super friendly, not straigth to the point like we are used to in the US
• Very friendly. But from what I hear - Brazlilians does not equal Cariocas - who are (I was told) different. My Brazilian friend from Sao Paolo once told me: when Paulista suggests 'let's have a dinner soon' you can be sure he/she will call you next week to fix the date. When Carioca tells you the same.. you can be sure he/she will never call you...
• Yes, I would say they are mostly friendly. The ones who you know will be very polite and thoughtful towards you, will invite you to their homes, to go out and do things, they make you feel comfortable and valued. They also will be quite honest with you, and sometimes might even ask a favor, or pop in on you unexpected.
  
  People on the street, just passing by are a little different. Some are kind and will help you if you drop something, etc. Yet there are others who instead of moving out of the way, will plow right into you (even if you are 8 months pregnant). The people who we know that work at the different stores and restaurants that we frequent are always very kind and talkative, know our names, make us feel like regulars. And as you know, having a child is a huge plus...everyone, really without exception, seems to adore young children. Even the some of the camelos at the beach who sell globo biscoitos or picoles, etc., some remember my son and always stop by to say hello and talk to him. Not to try to sell anything, but just to say "oi", a lot of them even remember his name (and his team of course). The sales people that work on commission at a lot of retail stores are annoying but try to be helpful.
  
  Another thing is that Cariocas are very fun-loving. I have never seen so many sunrises in my life as I have living here...before child, we used to go out to the beach in the afternoon and meet friends, and then that would turn into a sundown drink somewhere, and that would lead to another place, and another...the endless "saideira" (the last one) and sometimes we just never made it home until the next morning, still in our beach attire... here it is SO diffficult to plan on what you should wear or bring...because you never know what a simple drink or beach day can end up being. They love to be spontaneous. They are are also uninhibited...they don't have the body issues that americans have. They are more at home in their skin. At the beach, everyone wears a bathing suit...no shorts or cover-ups...they are not shy about their bodies. And people are comfortable to dance or sing and not feel silly or embarassed. And they love to greet you warmly, with two kisses, sometimes a hug, holding your hands or putting arms around you...very warm, and so different from the US. Friends calls each other "amor"... I am still learning a lot from this, it took a while to relax, but it is a great thing.
  
  Beauty/upkeep is a huge and annoying thing here too. Sometimes I wish I could just leave the house looking like crap but people just don't do that here. How you look, how you dress, how your nails are, really does matter here. On one hand, that is a good thing...but on the other, it is so much time and money and energy.
  
  Interesting thing...I have met a great many Brasilians/Cariocas over the past 7 years (since my husband is Carioca and lived here his whole life) and one of the LAST things they want to discuss is what they do for a living or what you do for a living. I have no idea what a lot of relatives here and friends of friends do, simply because it is not talked about very much. People like to talk about anything...except work it seems. Work doesn't define "you".
  
  One last thing to close...a funny observation. Living here, a least once or twice a day we get solicitors calling...usually from a company or place that we use or deal with. It is annoying. However, if my husband answers the phone, he will sit on the phone for 10 minutes, just listening to the pitch...too polite to hang up. I see this with friends and inlaws too, they don't want to be rude to these phone solicitors. Where I say "nao posso falar agora" and hang up... most people will talk to them, even on their cell phones when they are paying money for the incoming call. It is funny.
  
  Ahh, must add, I did live in the North East of Brasil (Fortaleza) for 4 months a few years ago. The people there are nowhere as nice and fun as the Carioca's...there is no comparison. Life in Rio is better and people are lighter and happier.
• Friendly until they get behind the wheel!
• Nice but immature, meaning that as a society cariocas seem to have stopped developing socially as teenagers. I know that is a bit critical, but.....To interested in the superficials to have a meaningful conversation.
• Extremely friend and nice although not very punctual (punctuality is a bigger issue in Rio than in the rest of the country although be on time is not very popular anywhere)
• They are extremely friendly and amazing with children. They are unreliable socially - they either don't turn up or turn up very late with no notice. They are open-minded and helpful. They are very body conscientious!
• Friendly, lovely people on a superficial basis. Very different to Europeans, so hard to know on a deeper basis. Terrible drivers.
• Friendly, polite, helpful
• I thought they were very friendly and excited to share their culture with me.

Another question I asked was in regards to how many Brazilian friends each expat had made. Brazilians tell me all the time that they are the friendliest people in the world, but the numbers suggest otherwise! Nearly 50% of people surveyed have been befriended by less than five Brazilians. 5% have not made any Brazilian friends at all. Note: if I had completed the survey, my response to the question about what surprised me most upon moving here would have been how few Brazilian friends we have. It still surprises me! I can relate to those who responded saying that the language barrier makes meeting Carioca's very difficult.

In the Jardim

I fell in love with these trees at the Jardim Botanico a couple weeks ago. Thought the blossoms would make a good Valentine's Day entry! By the way, since it is not Valentine's Day until June here in Brazil, yes, Mr. DRL DOES have to celebrate it twice with me :) here's hoping he is reading the blog today, haha...

It's called a Lecythidaceae.

The Bundchen Baby

Although many people come to Brazil thinking that they will find 100 million clones of Gisele Bundchen, there are even more reasons than ever to assure you that this is not at all the case. 

In fact, after reading this article in People, I am starting to wonder if she is Brazilian at all! She did not use any painkillers during the birth of her son (this is pretty much unheard of according to my OB, who also tells her expat clients regularly that they should give Brazilians lessons on "how to behave during childbirth"), opted for a natural birth (again, Brazil has one of the highest C-section rates...), and didn't NAME her child for several days after his birth (most Brazilians I have met who are pregnant find out the sex of the baby as soon as possible via blood test - before the ultrasound results are possible - then promptly name their child and start referring to them by their name from that point on!) 

Are we sure she is Brazilian?

Obrigada, Selaron!

Selaron has included Grampa's tile in his famous staircase! It is near the bottom of the staircase on the left hand side. We took some family photos there and framed one of Canadoca with the tile for Mr. DRL's mom (it was her dad's tile, and he passed away exactly one year ago today).

Here it is!

Swanky Christmas and New Year's Plans in Rio - Copacabana Palace

If you are looking to blow some cash have a fine dining experience over the holidays in Rio, here are some of your options at the Copacabana Palace:

Christmas:

Copacabana Palace - Christmas Eve Dinner starts at R$420 per person.  Christmas Day Brunch is $R220 per person. Includes drinks.

New Year's:

Copacabana Palace - room rates start at US $1,040 per night.

Dinner/Parties at the Copacabana Palace start at R$1,200 per person including drinks. Click here for more details.

My quote of the day...

Although I have never dated a supermodel, I think living in Rio is probably a lot like it. Meaning? You put up with a lot of crazy sh*t because it is just so darn gorgeous.

Brazilian Diet Secrets

These are all diet tips I have been told/friends of mine have been told by Brazilians. You be the judge...

1) The crust of bread is good for you but the middle, soft part is fattening.

2) Mangoes and acai should be avoided because they are too high in calories (this was told to me by someone with a plate full of deep fried salgados in front of them...)

3) When you are on a diet you should eat minas cheese and processed turkey breast with bread for breakfast. 

Tonight, On Oprah...

If you are here in Rio, try and catch The Oprah Winfrey Show on GNT at 8 pm. It will feature a segment on Rio de Janeiro. As Oprah runs about 2 weeks behind here in Brazil, I've already heard different things about this episode from a number of people back home, and therefore have had to try not to form too many opinions about what was featured until I see it for myself...  it is an episode about women around the world, and apparently a woman from Ipanema and her maid were interviewed for the Rio portion. To view some "after the show" questions asked, click here.

Also on Oprah's site about Rio - a guide to traveling here (there is one for each of the Olympic 2016 Candidate cities) 

I'm hoping some of you come back and let me know what you thought of the episode and how Rio and its women were portrayed. Can't wait to watch!

Pretty Pretty Nuance

It's been awhile since I posted a Nuance photo

Keepsake of the fruit in Brazil?

In my survey of Rio expats, I ask what everyone's favorite Brazilian treat is but inadvertently forgot to include the fruit as an option. Luckily many of you reminded me by adding the option.

Although the fruit will never be as fresh tasting back home, there is a way to preserve its beauty in your memory. Jann La Pointe is one of Rio's most talented photographers (we had our maternity photos done with her and have had a couple of sets of portraits of Canadoca done with her as well), and she has put together a beautiful book of photos of Brazil's tropical fruit treats - check it out here. 

To schedule your own portrait session with Jann, or to see more of her work, access her site here.

Lots to do...

My to do list is long these days, as is the list of things to do in and around Rio this weekend. Two high profile picks:

• Oi Fashion Rocks Rio. The event features a performance by Mariah Carey, and a show by Calvin Klein, who apparently spends a lot of time here in RIo. At the Jockey Club.
• If you want to then escape the city, the Buzios food festival is on this weekend as well. So many great spots in Buzios to eat, so this is sure to be stellar.

Travel Notes

A few random thoughts after about half of my 24 day trip in Southwestern South America:

• Finally, it's not just in Brazil that everyone insists on standing pretty much TOUCHING the luggage carousel. I think that I might have to make an instructional video on how to behave at the luggage carousel and sell it to airports here. It will start with obvious things like don't climb on it and finish with what you'd think would be obvious things like if everyone stands 2 feet away from it and simply steps forward to pick up a piece of their luggage when it is actually coming down the carousel, it would make a lot more sense and be a lot more courteous... until then I loudly yell com licensa and then brute in between the people and yank out my luggage...
• It seems to me that in Rio we really have the short end of the stick when it comes to grocery shopping. It was shocking to me that PERU has FAR SUPERIOR grocery stores to Rio. Not at all what I expected.
• Traveling with Canadoca ROCKS. Not only do we have constant entertainment, but people are so much nicer to us, especially the airlines. We get put in special lineups everywhere - wonderful service.
• I have yet to be on any flight in South America where I haven't been fed. Even if it's just cookies. It's a good thing.
• The variety of consumer products and vehicles available in different countries in South America is really something... what dictates this exactly? Relationships with other countries? Import taxes?
• The more cities I see in South America, the more wild I think Rio is...

Rio 2016 video

I knew this would be good. Here is Rio's little promo video as part of the submission for hosting the 2016 games. I remember when I watched Vancouver's a few years back and it brought tears to my eyes it was so beautiful. Rio's doesn't disappoint. One observation I do have is that it seems incredibly tranquil - and given Rio's reputation internationally, I venture to guess that this is deliberate. Check out the video, it's beautiful, and I am proud to say that I've been almost everywhere that is featured.

Back in Rio

I'm currently re-acclimatizing to the "Daily Rio Life"... back in Rio after a great trip home. Canadoca met a number of our friends, three of her four sets of grandparents, one set of great-grandparents and numerous members of the extended family as well. She did a bit of a tour of Western Canada, starting in Calgary then heading into the interior of BC, Vancouver and Vancouver Island.

Traveling alone with a 4 month old was easier than one might think. She was a trooper no matter where I took her or how many new people mauled her in one day (I think the record was 45).  This kid wants to see the world.

In case you are curious, I traveled with her on a Canadian passport only, since we still do not have a Brazilian one. Initially when we started all these processes the Canadian consulate here in Rio said that we must have both passports in order to travel. However, something recently changed, and now the Brazilian officials are allowing Brazilian born children of foreign descent to travel on the passports of the parents' home country. (Confusing much!?) The airline officials raised an eyebrow but when they consulted the federal police, they said it was a-okay. I did have to have her Brazilian birth certificate along with a letter from Mr. DRL (actually, truth be told it was a court order) saying that I was allowed to leave the country with her.  Whatever works!

So now we are back, safe and sound, and ready for the next adventures... which include Uruguay, Chile, Argentina & Peru! 

Regular posts will follow... and responses to comments and emails, too. Just as soon as I get started on my laundry pile...

It's good to be back.

Kayaking in the Amazon: Part II

Part II of an entry about our friends' kayaking trip in Amazonas in July.

We slept in hammocks and fell asleep each night and woke up each morning to the sounds of the Jungle.




The Urubu river is a black water river. Because of the acidic water mosquitoes were not a problem (I think I got one bite the entire time), but this also meant that the animal and plant life was not as diverse as on the Amazon river.  We were lucky to spot three different types of monkeys, a pig, snakes, frogs, lizards, a multitude of birds, and catch a piranha.  
 



 

The entire experience was magical- we would really recommend the adventure!

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Kayaking in the Amazon: Part 1

Our good friends who visited us in July took a kayak trip in Amazonas - here is the first of two guest posts on their trip:

Our Kayak trip in the Amazon of the Urubu river was fantastic! 

We flew four hours from Rio to Manaus on TAM airlines (although we would not recommend TAM, as they cancelled both of our originally scheduled flights to and from Rio without contacting us).

Manaus a city of almost two million is a manufacturing hub and a jumping off point for Amazon tourism.  The city is not nearly as aesthetic, modern or developed as Rio, but it has a lovely central plaza, some interesting Museums, a large port, and intriguing markets at every corner.  We had two days in Manaus and found that we had more than enough time to explore the city.  Hotels and Restaurants are very limited.  We stayed at the Dez De Julho Hotel. Our room was very basic but was in a good central location, had air conditioning, a fridge and was relatively clean.  Jungle lodges outside of the city are a popular attraction but are expensive (especially if you enjoy hot water) and crowded with tourists. 

The company Amazon Mystery Tours was really great, answering all of our questions and concerns before hand and making us feel safe, comfortable and well taken care of during our time in the Jungle.
We ventured deep into the Jungle, and had an authentic, natural wilderness experience.  It was just us and the animals and apart from meeting a local family we did not see any other people during our five day 4 night adventure. 




Our transportation to the river.  Between our two guides, the two of us, our driver, and all of our gear it was loaded!

We were the only ones on the adventure, along with two highly experienced professional guides.   Fabio spoke English and was a wealth of knowledge and information about the area, plants, animal, history, local customs, traditions and way of life. 

Josue set up our camp, carried many of our supplies in a canoe and cooked us yummy meals, he also made fantastic capahrinas.   After kayaking between 3 and five hours each day, exploring waterfalls, caves and hiking through the jungle we were ready for a drink when we made it to our camp.

Store Windows Series - Cantao

Current window at Cantao...

Ok so I saw a photo of Gwen Stefani wearing pants similar to these hangy-crotch pants that have been a hit here in Brazil since I arrived here like a year and a half ago. Every so often I ask my friends back home if the pants have hit North America yet and the answer is always a resounding "NO! And please don't start the trend!"

But if Gwen is wearing them...

Scary

This isn't a great photo but this little girl could not have been older than 10 years old, and was wearing makeup, little heels, a tanktop and miniskirt... plus a purse. wow.

Selaron's new tile

As I mentioned awhile back, my mother in law sent down a wonderful tile for Selaron that belonged to Mr. DRL's grandfather, who passed away in January. We finally delivered it to the artist himself:

Perfect day in the Peapod Pop Tent!

The Canadoca has earned the "oca" (from Carioca) in her name... she offically loves the beach. Even if it IS "winter"...  Last Friday we took her and our guests out to Recreio to the beach for a little sun, frescoball and R&R. Mr. DRL even took the day off!

We bought the Canadoca a little Peapod Pop Tent/Travel Bed thing that folds up super small and protects her from some elements (sun, wind, insects, etc.) while engaging in outdoor pursuits. Almost like a pack & play but much lighter and smaller (less than 5 lbs, and measures 14x14x5 - easily put in a suitcase)! Friday was the first time we used it so we weren't sure how it would go but she seemed mesmerized by the red interior and with the exception of coming out for feedings, she spent the better part of 5 hours of the afternoon in there!

Pera, anyone?

Pera = pear in Portuguese.

But this post is not about fruit, rather about body types and body image.

You have to hand it to the Brazilians - to generalize, they are incredibly laid back and accepting people. Internationally, the women have the reputation of being the most beautiful in the world and TALL (??) In reality there are as many beautiful people here as there are elsewhere, and literally every one of our visitors is surprised to find that your average Brazilian woman is quite short, and pear shaped. Or should I say - Pear shaped & Proud of it!

Back home, being pear shaped is not something one strives for. (Most prefer an hourglass). It's not seen as being a desirable body type. Here, there are special exercises at the gym that women do to beef up their bums and thighs. Back home, a pear shaped woman would be encouraged to wear a-line skirts. Here they wear a little belt to accent their waist and upper body, and the most skin tight bottoms they can to make their bundas look even bigger. After over a year, I am still not quite used to it.

That said, I think the more accepting Brazilian attitude towards body image is refreshing and much healthier. If I could pass just one "Brazilian" lesson on to my little Brasileira (Canadoca), I hope that's it!

Therapy for Frustrating, Homesick Days

It's sad that people get spoiled. I'm one of them. You know it's bad when you realize what a great place you live in when you look at your guest's vacation photos from when they came to visit:

 

 

Walking to Arpoador is good for the soul.

Signs of Winter in Rio - II

I should also mention that I spotted someone rollerblading in ear muffs recently. To be fair, I believe that day it was a low of +22 (c) with windchill.

Last year around this time, I left Rio to go home to Canada for a few weeks. Mr. DRL joined me later in August, but told me that all of the leaves fell from the trees while I was gone, only to miraculously reappear before I returned. I have always joked with him that he must have been lying and that winter could not possibly have been so short but now the leaves sure seem to have turned and are falling from the trees at a quick pace!

Girls on the Beach

This is a shallow attempt to retain some male readership who are likely getting a bit sick of the "baby coverage"...

Dealing with the Boss' wife

... is apparently much different here in Brazil!

A couple of years ago, I had an idea to do a book about the phenomenon of the boss' wife in small, family-owned businesses. The idea stemmed from observing the behaviour of my boss at the time's wife, and also looking at the wife of a family member's boss and a friend of the family whose husband owned and ran his own company.  In all three examples, the boss' wife was not an integral part of the day to day business activities from the staff's point of view, but felt as though they were because of their contributions in various ways. The stress of owning or running a business is rarely left at work, and often taken home. Usually they "knew too much" - notably the negatives of the staff's performances, as their husbands would vent frustrations at home.  Yet they didn't get the full perspective or both sides, as they weren't in the office on a daily basis.

In my opinion, all three women at times felt as though they did not get enough respect from their husband's staff or acknowledgment for their contributions, sacrifices or involvement. This, combined with only hearing the negatives, caused them to at times treat the staff members coldly. That said, the smart employee in any of these three organizations knew that to mess with her was worse than messing with the boss himself. Not that it stopped people. Soooo not a smart move.

That said, despite their frustrations, I don't think any of these three wives ever experienced what I did on Saturday night.

Here in Brazil, my husband is second in command in the company he works for.  So here, I find myself in the role I was so interested in before - yet from a different perspective - the boss' wife.

Before I get into it - I realize there are some significant cultural differences between women back home and women here in Brazil. I realize it is considered kosher to talk openly and directly about people's weight and looks here in Brazil, whereas back home the same conversation could be considered catty, judgemental, inappropriate and in poor taste.

I can't imagine this ever happening back home: one of my husband's employees asked me how much weight I have gained over the course of my pregnancy. I responded. Her response was that it was too much, I had gained 5 kilos more than I should have. This was in a social setting, in front of several people. Days from my due date.

Maybe it's just me, but back home, I think that most people would be wayyyy too terrified to say something like that to their boss' wife. 

As a sidenote, I have gained more than the Brazilian doctor's recommendations. However, I am still well within the North American recommendations. I realize that I am not exactly looking my best these days, and did not need reminding, especially not from a member of Mr. DRL's staff.

Saaiiiiling

We had pretty much the perfect day yesterday - went sailing to Itaipu (sp?) with friends.... just loved it. I mentioned recently that we'd found a service for those wanting to go sailing in Rio de Janeiro  - I highly highly recommend seeing Rio by boat if you are coming down, it gives you a different perspective, money very well spent - we were out for almost 7 hours!

We stopped in Itaipu to have lunch and swim - the cool, clean, calm water felt incredibly good....

Fort outside of Niteroi
Looking back towards Rio from Itaipu
Love it.
Our neighbourhood & one of the brothers & Pedra de Gavea from the water.
A bit of a different vista of the Cristo on Corcovado mountain.

City lights at night...