Daily Life in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

2009 Rio Expat Survey: Advice for those moving to Rio!

This entry concludes the results of the 2009 Rio Expat Survey that I conducted. I hope it's been helpful for some of you, particularly those considering a move to Rio!

My final question: If you could give a single piece of advice to someone moving to Rio next month, what would it be?

• Bring sheets and comfort foods atleast to cover you untill you adapt and are able to make your own comfort foods.
• Bring more money than you thought you might need.
  Learn some Portuguese before you get here!
• Learn the language.
• Call and talk to someone when you are determining what to bring and what area to live in. Discussion can provide you with information that you might not have known would be useful to you
• enjoy it - the Brazilians do
• Come with an open mind because you will NOT find all the familiar brands you have back home, but their equivalent is sufficient to compensate!
• ake language lessons seriously in the beginning and speak to several other expats to find a good local support network for housing issues (searches, repairs, cleaning, etc). accept the sunga as your beach attire and really research your visa consultants.
• try to learn some of the language before you arrive
• Bring good walking shoes: sneakers or sandals.
• time has a different meaning in Rio, take it easy, lower your expectations and enjoy the wonderful landscape!
• Study Portuguese before moving here + participate in an intense cultural training
• Make the most of your time here. Keep yourself busy and involved in as many things as impossible. Embrace the Rio life, it is fun, but you have to make it fun and make the most of it.
• Open your mind, there is not just your way of getting along with life!
• Your visa may take about 6 months, so be prepared not to see your shipment for a while.
• Done enough research on what need to brings.
• Consider twice.
• Relax and be prepared for the unexpected.
• learn portuguese asap
• BUY BUY BUY...
  Buy what you can't live without...for women, bras or other personal items you need from day to day. For men, a nice pair of running shoes. For families with children, buy anything you can think of that you will need or need to restock. Having things shipped with your container beats having to travel and deal with customs at the airport.
• Be open-minded, venture out to see the sites, and try new things at least once -- from the odd-looking Amazonian fruit to skimpy Brazilian swimwear!
• Have a look at the things that you use daily, and bring a lot of them as a stockpile.
• Learn Portuguese
• Get in touch with the American and British Society's and the Canasta Group. Be active, make yourself get out and explore.
• If you like biking, attend Kraft Bikes free weekly rides. Safer to bike with a group, and the shop owner (Alberto) is friendly and knowledgeable.
• Pack light
• Be prepared to fall in love with Rio, don't judge the city until after you have spent at least 2 full months living there.
• Enjoy the simple things. Use your common sense and when things get too be too much, have a beer at a breathtakingly beautiful spot!
• Enjoy and relax
• Find a friend who knows the code here and relax. Be careful. Let go of your timing and take advantage of one of the most beautiful cities the world has to offer!
  Do your research well, so it will be less of a shock. Also, learn some of the language before coming.
• Do you research on everything--housing, schools, etc.
• Expect things to get better after 6 months
• Relax and get ready to enjoy, you should be as careful here as you would be in New York or Miami.
• place where you'll need a lot of a patience.... but you can really enjoy life
• PORTUGUESE, PORTUGUESE, PORTUGUESE.
• Move all of your major appliances from home- all local made machines break weekly! Also bring your furniture if the company is not buying it for you- it is very expensive here and not well made.
• think about what you enjoy and continue
• This is a really hard question.
  I think my advice would be to learn the language as quickly as possible. Speaking and understanding the language is the key to really enjoying the richness of carioca culture.
• Don't live in Barra!
• Learn Portugese in a group setting like IBEU.
  Don't live in Barra
• Be open and excited. It's a magical place.
• Take the sun oil with you.

2009 Rio Expat Survey: The Difficulties

I asked survey participants what is the most difficult thing about living in Brazil as a foreigner. This is not meant to be Brazil-bashing, of course living everywhere has advantages and disadvantages. it is meant to be helpful to those considering a move to Brazil. The responses are as follows:

• language barrier (multiple mentions!)
• Family is in America
• difficulty cooking because lack of ingredients and finding everyday things especially in Leblon...and getting things fixed, furniture delivered...EVERYTHING seems harder except there is delivery to my kitchen from Zona Sul which is so great!
• The cops
• lousy pay
• Not mastering the language and rarely having a conversation... though I guess new moms have that problem no matter where they are....
• Brazilians tend to tell you what they think you want to hear, which is not always the truth. They want to please, but do not always come through with what they promise, schedule, etc. They don't like to say they can't do something.
• the price of everything and the summer weather and the poor quality/price of and lack of apartments in leblon/ipanema area
• general hygiene of the streets! ugh!
• taxi drivers, people not asking for help or stating that they do not know how to do things, the quality of how certain things work, safety issues, lack of community initiatives, lack of standardization
• the people and the lack of respect for others (being late, not calling, etc)
• Security issues and a fairly low quality of housing (compared to what you would get back home for the same price).
• The craziness (buses, taxis, noise, chaos) and the bureaucracy.
• Far away from home, Security situation
• Language barrier. Safety issues. Not feeling fulfilled at all times. Culture is different to what i am used too to.
• Language, crime, it's not home
• Restrictions for the kids
• Language / lack of luxuries / flight time home
• The availability of decent appartments, most of them are obselete and the landlord do not put enough effort to refurbish
• Language, traffic jams, lack of security.
• My husbands company, because we never know how long we may stay and the almost non-existent operationg time of light bulbs.
• violence and paranoia that comes with high crime
• things happen on their own time and not N. American time
• Nothing, really.
• The pollution and congestion and lack of good places to ride our bikes and train like we used to. My husband is working a lot more and is more stressed, and he is on call on the weekends so we can't go anywhere. Also, I do not have a work permit (although I volunteered then worked at THRio for six months), so some days that drives me nuts.
• Difficulty in getting anything done right, regardless of how long you might be willing to wait
• Langauage barrier, but my fault. Crime.
• Noise and concern over personal safety
• Concerns about security, finding work for other-half
• Rain, Rain, Rain. Language, Being away from family, cost of certain goods (electronics, clothes)
• Lack of personal commitment in business and the utter chaos and self-serving approach to societal behavior
• Crime and Dirt
• relaxed schedule
• General security fear, schools not as good as I could get in the States, and its hot hot hot
• I drive all my past maids and present maid crazy with it. Constant battle and will never get use to it, although we use air all the time, it is still present
• Very expensive and not too easy to get around. The expat women's group (INC) wasn't really set up like other international groups
• Missing family and rain
• crime... I am trying not to get over-paranoid.... but the danger is there and it would be silly to ignore it
• crime
• Hmm, that gets less and less with every year. I would say being so far away from family and friends. You need a lot of patience to live here. You need to get accostumed to seeing a lot of people living in conditions much less than your own. Rio can be bad, but I have seen far worse in the NE and North of Brasil...makes favelas here look desirable
• so many people - I realize the big city life isn't that great.
• 1. Paperwork
  2. Language
  3. Incredibly high cost of electronics
• Insecurity although I think Brazilian and international media tends to sensationalize things. If you watch the news, you'll see hundreds of violent cases in Rio (some of them extremely trivial or at really distant, marginalized neighborhoods) and you won't hear much from other cities, although Rio is not one of the five cities with the highest crime rates. Weird...
• When it rains there is nothing to do!
• The language
• traffic, crime
• The constant feeling unsafe. I didn't think I was too worried while I was in Rio, but upon returning I realized how unconsciously afraid I had been the entire time I was there. It is nice to go running down the street with my ipod at dusk in my mid-western town.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Join the Club?

Rio has a number of clubs for foreigners to join - though over 40% of my respondents belonged to none of them! 40% belong to the International Newcomer's Club, and 30% to the American Society (which apparently accepts other nationalities as well). A few also belong to the British Commonwealth Society.

Note that it is possible to attend the events of these organizations without actually joining, as I frequently do.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Treats and Daytrips

Some of the pleasures of Brazil...

I asked the expats - what is your favorite Brazilian treat? Here is what they said:

I left space for them to fill in other answers, which included several mentions of fruit, feijoada, chopp, salgados, petit gateau, churros, warm sweet caramel popcorn, sao paulo pizza...

I also asked what was their favorite daytrip from Rio. Here are the responses, ranked by popularity:

1. Buzios
2. Petropolis
3. Beaches past Barra (such as Recreio, Prainha, Grumari)
4. Itaipava
5. Niteroi
6. Tijuca Forest
7. Santa Teresa
8. Ilha Grande
9. Angra
10. Sailing around the Bay
11. Cabo Frio
12. Paraty
13. Vargem Grande
14. Boa Esperanca
15. Paqueta
16. Serrinha
17. Fazenda Vargem Grande

FInally, I asked participants where their favorite place is in Brazil. Here are the answers ranked by popularity:

1. Buzios
2. Rio - with specific mentions of Arpoador, the beach, Santa Teresa, Tijuca Forest, The Jardim Botanico, Posto 10, Barra Beach Post 8, Ipanema, and finally "My apartment in Flamengo! It provides me a wonderful retreat from my work and a great place to entertain my friends and associates." 
3. The NE, specifically Old City Centre of Recife, Recife, Natal, Fernando de Noronha, Salvador, Itavare, Morro de Sao Paulo, Itaparica
4. Ilha Grande
5. Paraty
6. Ouro Preto
7. Foz de Iguacu
8. Florianopolis/Santa Caterina
9. Pantanal
10. Sao Paulo
11. Teresopolis
12. Arraial d'Juda
13. Pernambuco
14. Bosque da Barra

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: All about those Cariocas

I frequently get emails and comments from Brazilians letting me know that I've got it all wrong and that my perceptions are way off, I anticipate that this post may attract some attention of the sort. Try not to be offended. Most of these comments are very positive! Keep in mind that these are the results of a survey (which, by the way, I did not actually participate in!). I wanted to know what the expats think of the Cariocas they have come across. Specifically, I asked: Based on your encounters and experiences, what are your thoughts about Brazilians, or Cariocas? Are they friendly? All observations welcome!

Here is what the expats had to say:

• Based on only 5 months of living here I would say I have a split decision on this. Some Brazilians that I meet are friendl and willing to struggle through a conversation in rough Portuguese and others dont even try.
• I feel they are friendly and outgoing especially if you have a baby with you.
• God love em
• Warm, open, encouraging and with a commitment to joyfulness
• An incredible mix of people that create a culture that is vibrant, welcoming and exciting. I plan to retire here now. I keep a group of close friends in the US, but my friends in Rio have become more than 'friends' - they are family, and embrace me as such.
• Cariocas are very friendly once you get to know them. The trick is getting/having the opportunity to meet them.
• Friendly, helpful especially if i run into communication difficulties
• Very polite and helpful on the surface but rarely actually go the extra mile and develop true relationships. That may be due to the fact Rio is such a large city, so people are less patient with others sometimes and also that possible friends live so far away (especially through traffic) that it is hard to invest time in relationships. I think there is also a level of prestige through the city and closes people's minds to certain relationships, but hard to say.
• Brazilians are the friendliest people in the world by far!
• I have a 5-month old baby... YEAH, friendly! "Ay meu deus, que bonitinho, que coisa mais linda, que fofa," and then that psspsspsspsspss sound that drives him wild. Can't imagine a friendlier spot for a baby.
• they are very casual, a bit more than I wuld like; this translate on being late, talking a lot louder than other nationalities, not caring for lanes or lines, not being consider for the non-smoking ones,
• Sometimes, they need some time to warm up with foreigners but then they are very friendly and interested in the other.
• In general, they are friendly people and are very helpful. However, when making friends with them it's difficult. Many are so attached to their existing friends and especially family (most have never lived outside of Rio). They are quick to criticize anything about their own or other countries ( and are a very passive people and don't seem to protest), but get extremely defensive if you insult theirs.
• Generally Carioca's are friendly however they can interfering too.
• Extremely friendly and are happy to assist as I cannot speak their language.
• Very friendly and helpful, somewhat too relax and takes time
• Very friendly, in particular if you speak Portuguese.
• Cariocas are an incredible mixture of beeing very friendly, always helpful, most affectionate with kids, relaxed, easy with laughing, but at the same time beeing ignorant, selfish and not able to use the indicators when driving their car. Walking in the lowest pace ever seen, but for what ever reason always in a hurry when crossing the streets? Not able to let you through with your stroller in this tiny supermarket alleys and never punctual. But I love the hugging and kissing and that they always take their time to chat.
• outgoing, open, friendly, sometimes insincere, straightforward about your appearance, talkative, malandros, fun, arrogant, beautiful
• Cariocas are generally friendly and informal. They do lack what Europeans and North Americans would consider "common courtesy" of saying "excuse me" or "I'm sorry" for pushing through a crowd or bumping into someone. They also are extremely reluctant to acknowledge a mistake and would instead argue with you, offering one excuse after another. This can be quite frustrating, particularly in the service industry. Also, traffic is chaotic because of the "me first" attitude combined with ignorance of traffic rules. Otherwise, life is good in Rio!!
• Brazilians don't seem to like to do things on their own - they seem to like to do everything in groups. The wealthy seem to grow up thinking that no rules apply to them and there is always a way around things. Personal responsibility seems to be a totally foreign concept. The poor seem to work really hard and get nowhere and the rich seem to get richer. Yes, in general, Cariocas are friendly and appreciate smiles and chatting.
• Cariocas (who definitely are different than many other Brazilians) are extremely cordial and friendly but only on the surface. It is nearly impossible to develop a friendship with a Carioca.
• Friendly with the ones that are co-workers, not so friendly if you do not speak their language and that is understandable.
• Very friendly and helpful especially if you test your portuguese on them :-)
• Open minded, open hearted, well traveled, fun loving, bothered by the security issues of there beautiful city, very proud of Brazil, in-direct about embarassing or confrontation topics, ie they would never tell you that your zipper is open
• Generally very friendly, although they generally have a low grade of commitment. Once you're in the family, you're in and will be "adopted' much more than is likely in Europe or North-America.
• Very friendly but it is difficult to form great relationships because of the language barrier.
• very friendly, but language is a challenge
• Love Rio and for the most part people are very friendly.
• Cariocas have a basic "unawareness" of others. Not necessarily rude, but just completely unaware.
• Yes, very friendly and helpful. Also, those that I met and became friends with, still keep in touch now that I've returned home.
• friendly, but offer unsolicited advice
• Super friendly, not straigth to the point like we are used to in the US
• Very friendly. But from what I hear - Brazlilians does not equal Cariocas - who are (I was told) different. My Brazilian friend from Sao Paolo once told me: when Paulista suggests 'let's have a dinner soon' you can be sure he/she will call you next week to fix the date. When Carioca tells you the same.. you can be sure he/she will never call you...
• Yes, I would say they are mostly friendly. The ones who you know will be very polite and thoughtful towards you, will invite you to their homes, to go out and do things, they make you feel comfortable and valued. They also will be quite honest with you, and sometimes might even ask a favor, or pop in on you unexpected.
  
  People on the street, just passing by are a little different. Some are kind and will help you if you drop something, etc. Yet there are others who instead of moving out of the way, will plow right into you (even if you are 8 months pregnant). The people who we know that work at the different stores and restaurants that we frequent are always very kind and talkative, know our names, make us feel like regulars. And as you know, having a child is a huge plus...everyone, really without exception, seems to adore young children. Even the some of the camelos at the beach who sell globo biscoitos or picoles, etc., some remember my son and always stop by to say hello and talk to him. Not to try to sell anything, but just to say "oi", a lot of them even remember his name (and his team of course). The sales people that work on commission at a lot of retail stores are annoying but try to be helpful.
  
  Another thing is that Cariocas are very fun-loving. I have never seen so many sunrises in my life as I have living here...before child, we used to go out to the beach in the afternoon and meet friends, and then that would turn into a sundown drink somewhere, and that would lead to another place, and another...the endless "saideira" (the last one) and sometimes we just never made it home until the next morning, still in our beach attire... here it is SO diffficult to plan on what you should wear or bring...because you never know what a simple drink or beach day can end up being. They love to be spontaneous. They are are also uninhibited...they don't have the body issues that americans have. They are more at home in their skin. At the beach, everyone wears a bathing suit...no shorts or cover-ups...they are not shy about their bodies. And people are comfortable to dance or sing and not feel silly or embarassed. And they love to greet you warmly, with two kisses, sometimes a hug, holding your hands or putting arms around you...very warm, and so different from the US. Friends calls each other "amor"... I am still learning a lot from this, it took a while to relax, but it is a great thing.
  
  Beauty/upkeep is a huge and annoying thing here too. Sometimes I wish I could just leave the house looking like crap but people just don't do that here. How you look, how you dress, how your nails are, really does matter here. On one hand, that is a good thing...but on the other, it is so much time and money and energy.
  
  Interesting thing...I have met a great many Brasilians/Cariocas over the past 7 years (since my husband is Carioca and lived here his whole life) and one of the LAST things they want to discuss is what they do for a living or what you do for a living. I have no idea what a lot of relatives here and friends of friends do, simply because it is not talked about very much. People like to talk about anything...except work it seems. Work doesn't define "you".
  
  One last thing to close...a funny observation. Living here, a least once or twice a day we get solicitors calling...usually from a company or place that we use or deal with. It is annoying. However, if my husband answers the phone, he will sit on the phone for 10 minutes, just listening to the pitch...too polite to hang up. I see this with friends and inlaws too, they don't want to be rude to these phone solicitors. Where I say "nao posso falar agora" and hang up... most people will talk to them, even on their cell phones when they are paying money for the incoming call. It is funny.
  
  Ahh, must add, I did live in the North East of Brasil (Fortaleza) for 4 months a few years ago. The people there are nowhere as nice and fun as the Carioca's...there is no comparison. Life in Rio is better and people are lighter and happier.
• Friendly until they get behind the wheel!
• Nice but immature, meaning that as a society cariocas seem to have stopped developing socially as teenagers. I know that is a bit critical, but.....To interested in the superficials to have a meaningful conversation.
• Extremely friend and nice although not very punctual (punctuality is a bigger issue in Rio than in the rest of the country although be on time is not very popular anywhere)
• They are extremely friendly and amazing with children. They are unreliable socially - they either don't turn up or turn up very late with no notice. They are open-minded and helpful. They are very body conscientious!
• Friendly, lovely people on a superficial basis. Very different to Europeans, so hard to know on a deeper basis. Terrible drivers.
• Friendly, polite, helpful
• I thought they were very friendly and excited to share their culture with me.

Another question I asked was in regards to how many Brazilian friends each expat had made. Brazilians tell me all the time that they are the friendliest people in the world, but the numbers suggest otherwise! Nearly 50% of people surveyed have been befriended by less than five Brazilians. 5% have not made any Brazilian friends at all. Note: if I had completed the survey, my response to the question about what surprised me most upon moving here would have been how few Brazilian friends we have. It still surprises me! I can relate to those who responded saying that the language barrier makes meeting Carioca's very difficult.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: How Have You Changed?

I asked how living in Rio has changed participants, if at all?

• Immense changes. More adaptable now, cultural norms here are norms to me now, more flexible. Im sure the list goes on and on.
• i think I definitely have more of an open mind about living in different countries.
• It has blown my mind to smithereens
• More peaceful, calm, patient
• I'm more open. I am more social. I seldom spend a weekend nights at home. I have a higher sense of self, community and spirit.
• I have become more laid back about getting things done.
• happier
• It has made me aware that there is life...a whole new world OUTSIDE of the US culture
• more focus on exercise, realizing that commuting really sucks, managing people, really appreciating how well things work in a first world country
• Life is too short, so travel and see the world!
• Too soon to say and all mixed up with having a baby, but maybe I'm relaxing a little about some things. Especially in interactions with strangers. I feel less static between people.
• thought me to be more spefic about things and to be more flexible about expectations
• I define myself less through my job and appreciate more other (personal) things of my life.
• I appreciate things a whole lot more back home, things I used to take for granted - like it driving and getting to your destination quickly. I've also become a whole lot more PATIENT.
• Hasn't really. Not yet anyway...... Well makes me appreciate the things i have back home more.
• I now have a greater appreciation of my home country.
• I am much more relaxed
• Next time we move I will ensure we have all the info and visa issues sorted before we leave our existing country. Rio has changed me as we thought previously that we had company support. Not every country is the same !
• More relax
• Patience
• Improvising and always have a back-up plan.
• made me much more street-smart.
• Still the same me.
• I have learned another language and been fortunate to live and experience yet another country, it's culture, customs and culinary delights!
• This is the first time that I haven't worked for an extended time period and I no longer feel that my self-worth is determined by my job and am more happy to just "be". I think that I take more pleasure out of life in general. But that has taken me a long time - the first year we moved here I was very depressed and angry....
• It has taught me patience that I never knew I had.
• Spoiled me.
• I've realised that I am very adaptabile and don't miss home as much as I thought I would.
• I enjoy the days more.
• I am able to communicate in another language!
• I am much more relaxed and less over-scheduled
• Style - I've got a more stylish look as a result of living here. Family - I see how Brazilians put a great focus on family life and hope to emmulate that.
• I am still me and so is the family, if anything more laid back.
• Appreciate the good ole USA.
• It made me closer to my family.
• I am a happier person
• well, I had to learn another language... already my 5th one
• Way more laid back!
• I have been humbled. I am more patient. I value living life and enjoying life like never before. I find more joy in smaller things. I need less. I want fewer things. I think I have become a little simpler. Oh, and I have relaxed a lot! I don't try to plan-out and organize every second of my life anymore.
• I am much more easygoing now and don't let things stress me out anymore.
• it hasn't changed me, just made me realize how I don't want to live
• It sounds cheesy, but I think I've learned how to enjoy the simple pleasures of every day life... a great day at the beach, a fresh fruit juice, meeting with friend to have a beer without needing to plan a party or invent a reason. Before, all I thought about was my commute, my job, my stress.
• I think it made me more relaxed
• I'm not sure it has.....
• I've 'learned' another language, become lazier, and a more hardened drinker (if that were possible). I'd say open minded, but I think that's part of being an expat anyway, and as we lived in Nigeria before....
• Meeting people from all over the world has strengthened my understanding of how wonderfully different and special we all are. The more I learn the more I want to know.
• I think I am much more open to new things and that I now want to see much more of the world.
• it changes me for sure during the stay but not afterwards

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Safety and Restrictions

I think every expat living in Rio and every person considering potentially moving here has had concerns about safety and security in Rio. Rio has quite a reputation internationally...

But really what it comes down to is how people are affected personally on a daily basis. So I had to ask the questions: Have you been personally affected by crime in Rio? Have you witnessed crime in Rio?

71% of respondents have not been the victim of any sort of crime in Rio.

Just 25% have WITNESSED crime in Rio. (DRL's note - public urination, prostitution and littering are not considered crimes here!)

I thought that this was pretty good/encouraging. I provided space for participants to leave comments, and here is what they had to say (most are descriptions of what the crimes people have encountered have been):

• a thin gold necklace was ripped off my father-inlaw's neck by a guy jogging.
• simple pick-pocketing at the beach
• My best friend was kidnapped for one day. She was waiting for a real estate agent to see a house in Barra.
• It was not random, but by house staff... thief!
• We got mugged - 3 guys took friend's bag and my shopping bag.
• Plainclothes police holding someone at gunpoint.
• Credit Card was copied, saw a mugging, nothing serious just inconvenient
• Mugged at knifepoint
• Bike theft
• theft in stores, purse stolen, and vendor being robbed
• I was with two people that had necklaces taken. Do not wear gold or gems.
• Witnessed assault on two british tourists (involving a very large knife), no one injured, but scary.
• late night mugging
• Mugged in Leblon
• I witnessed someone being shot a street corner near Lapa while riding in a cab

Now, in an attempt to protect employees from such incidents, some employers impose restrictions on expat employees. I asked respondents if they were subject to such restrictions. 77 percent were not. Of those who were, these are some of the restrictions they have:

• Restricted movement
• Not allowed to drive
• Certain activities restricted
• Only allowed to live in certain areas
• Not allowed to go to the Zona Norte or favelas

Stay safe out there!

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: How the Expats Shop

1) I asked where they most frequently buy food/groceries in Rio - they were allowed to list up to 3 options:

Zona Sul was most popular by far, followed by Hortifruti, Feiras (the open air markets), Sendas, Pao do Acucar, Extra, Carrefour and Wal-Mart.

2) I asked which creature comforts Rio expats bring back with them from home countries on a regular basis.

83% bring back beauty products and toiletries

73% bring food products

56% bring electronics

30% bring other household items (DRL note: I know of several people who bring in garbage bags and dish soap!)

Other items participants specifically listed with this question:

• Baking soda
• facial creams
• peanut butter
• coffee maker, dvd player, kids' cereal, candy
• oriental herbs and spices, dutch treats
• syrup, granola bars, peanut butter
• spicy food, spa treatments
• chips chips and more chips
• Perfume, Clinique, Mac, -makeup in general. Ipods, car stereo, telephone, answering maching, computers, printers, cameras, children's toys, strollers, bedding, and lots of clothes, adults and kids clothes/shoes/accessories...the list goes on!
• Walkers Salt and Vinager Crisps

3) Not what the folks at Shopping Leblon want to hear...  when asked where they buy their clothing, ex-pats in Rio responded that they buy most of their clothing back home:

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: What you miss

I asked respondents what they missed back home (besides the obvious answer of the people - family and friends). Here is what they said, somewhat categorized:

Intangibles:

• The easiness of everything familiar.
• not having to worry about money
• efficiency and reliability
• Immediate networks from city to city. I'm building my newtworks now... it's challenging, but exhausting at 46 - a bit like starting over.
• familiarity
• The efficiency of things back home.
• The conveniences and easiness about life - everything here is a bit more of a struggle.
• Efficiency.
• less bureaucracy
• accountability
• Having things work the way they are supposed to.
• Orderliness.
• The average level of education.
• intellectual interaction with friends
• Ease of everything
• conveinence
• Rio is NOISY, I miss the silence

In the tummy-ables:

• Mexican food. I'm from Houston, and there aren't any Mexican food places that I know of here. (DRL note: There is Rota 66 and Blue Agave - try them out!) 
• Brooklyn bodegas
• the food :)
• The food...The healthy food (Whole Foods, Trader Joes), yummy salads, good avocados and sour cream!
• The grocery stores
• Good, real bread!
• Food and comforts.
• Organic food - always, everything and almost everywhere.
• food (from New Mexico)
• The wide variety of tasty, inexpensive ethnic foods (Indian, Thai, Ethiopian, Italian, Mexican, Chinese...)
• chili dogs, pizza, dunking donuts
• mexican food
• american desserts
• Chips .. LOL They are not the same here in Rio
• Chinese food and Indian food.
• Mexican food
• Vietnamese food
• Being able to order a cappucino and have it arrive without sweetened condensed milk, chocolate, sugar, or all of the above mixed in.
• curry, salt and vinegar crisps
• Donor kebabs and curry

Infrastructure:

• community spaces
• Availability of anything!
• my public library

In the Weather/landscapes:

• seasons
• Hikes in the woods.
• I miss the cold.
• Cool weather.
• Fresch crisp air of autumn
• Fresh air.
• grass
• different seasons... I hate cold...but I like the diversity

In the Ring:

• watching a sport event with friends over cold ones
• watching American Football
• Pubs and warm beer

In English!

• I miss speaking English as my first language.
• News in english and general TV.
• communication
• to speak my birth language
• BBC tv
• UK TV

In Matters of Taste and Culture:

• Good music.

All In the Family:

• my family
• Nothing. Home is where the family is together.

"Housekeeping" Items:

• cleaniness
• I miss the puncuality of service men back home.
• my lovely garden
• my house

Freedoms/Security:

• The freedom to get in my car and drive myself where ever I want to go, whenever I want to go there without any logistical work
• A life without such great security worries, i.e. for me personally: to be able to just "be" (without having to previously think about what to wear, when to go, if possible to walk, etc.)
• I miss being able to walk freely around my town without having to worry about the dangers.
• My independence.
• Driving
• strolling at night without concern
• Reasonable driving.
• Driving a nice car
• The safety and cleanliness.
• Personal freedom
• back yard with no walls, suburban lifestyle
• Nicer cars
• Driving in the car with no known destination...just getting lost without worrying about safety.
• Flying small planes in the US, the US is a pilot's country...here it is very different.
• Being able to walk on the street with my camera in plain view without worrying about being robbed.
• Good driving
• Freedom to go where I want, when I want without concern.
• Being able to get or do anything I want, any time.

Shopping:

• online shopping
• access to things
• SHOPPING SHOPPING SHOPPING and then there's SHOPPING -- more specifically, discount/off price shopping and high quality products for a reasonable price
• Dillards, Macy's, the Galleria, Kroger's
• Stupid UK soaps that I can't see online. I'm getting over it.
• H&M clothing stores
• my favorite stores
• Marks and Spencer, topshop
• cheap candles...a lot of everyday little things.

Other:

• I miss the medical care!
• not much, that is why I am an expate - I do love going home to visit though.
• cheap international flights

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: More Demographic Info

Here is some more demographic info about participants in my survey:

61% originated from North America,

33% originated from Europe, with the remainder from places scattered around the globe. 

Brazil is the first international assignment for 41% of respondents. It is the second or third for as many respondents, meaning that less than 20% have had four or more international assignments.

34% of respondents volunteer their time in Rio on a regular basis.

There is still quite a bit of information to share with you from the survey - watch for posts in the next couple of weeks.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Empty Nesters?

15% of those surveyed have kids but the kids do not live here in Rio. Empty nesters for the most part, I think, although I do know of at least one couple here who have children away in private boarding school while they live here.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Length of Assignment

The majority of expats surveyed expect to be here two to three years. Makes sense to me, in fact I would not recommend anyone come here for less than 2 years on a work assignment. The learning curve is too steep!

2009 Expat Survey Results: Escolas

I asked participants with kids in Rio (which by the way make up 48% of the participants) which school they send their kids to.

The overwhelming majority (74%) send their kids to the American school, EARJ. 17% send them to the British school, and the remainder send their kids to institutions such as:

• Rio International Christian School
• EAC
• Brazilian Creche
• Colegio Notre Dame
• Vilhena de Moraes
• Escola Parque
• Lady of Mercy

2009 Expat Survey Results: Working in Brazil, the rewards and frustrations

55% of respondents said they work more hours here in Brazil than they did in their previous job.

I also asked what was the most rewarding thing about working in Brazil and the most frustrating. Let's start with the frustrations and finish on a positive note with the rewards:

Participants reported that their biggest frustrations working in Rio de Janeiro are:

• getting people to do something "right now" is almost impossible. Everything takes more time here
• I teach English largely to rich kids. Some of their attitudes and sense of entitlement drives me nuts.
• the cost of living, quality of apartments available for rent
• Working in Brazil is more work as a expat...longer hours.
• because of lack of standardized bureaurcracy, I find that people sometimes neglect common sense in making decisions as they are always trying to make it fit the process instead of designing a process that solves the issue
• too much to do in too little time
• resistency against changes
• There is always expression for para manha...
• inefficiency
• low pay
• you need to micromanage here in Rio.
• the language barrier - I worked with 5 people who spoke no English so it was pretty much an immersion experience.
• For me, language... I'd like to speak more portuguese to help improve my work relationships here.
• Time difference with US and UK markets, government red tape (you will know what I mean about this after you attempt to get any work papers, open a bank account, get clarification on any laws, etc.
• Lack of commitment, inability to separate main issues for side issues the role of large egos that need stroking above the "greater good" of the deal/business.
• how slow things can be sometimes
• The most frustrating thing is that Brazilians are not direct, they beat around the bush like you wouldn't believe it!
• (DRL's note: I'm guessing this person is a teacher): the parents
• not being able to buy/fix camera equipment here in Rio because it's too expensive.
• The most frustrating thing is dealing with overly dramatic Brazilians!
• The most frustrating was the lack of quality teaching materials. A lot of basic supplies that I use here in the states were not available there. I had to get very creative to effectively teach.
• simplicity (commitment to a deal, agreement or date)

Participants commented that the following makes working in Rio de Janeiro the most rewarding:

• Teaching the local staff new things. The desire to learn is very strong.
• How passionate Brazilians are about their work and life in general...
• making lifelong friends
• having the opportunity to be in another country
• Closeness of the team
• long lunches, long holidays
• rio lifestyle
• Reward is that you get to experience a new culture and that for me is priceless.
• working with a lot of talented Brazilians
• speaking more and more portuguese, basic experience and challenge.
• Getting past the language barrier
• (DRL's note: I'm guessing this person is a teacher): the kids
• The warmth of clients when they are pleased with my work.
• It allows me to get to know Brazilians and it pays much better than being in the UK.
• It was great to be around young children who were bi-lingual. They were so fluent in English at such a young age (1st grade).
• simplicity (take it easy)

2009 Expat Survey Results: Misconceptions

People "back home" often don't get it. They think we expats sit around eating bon bons, working on sunning our bundas while barking orders at our maids and making lunch plans at the Copacabana palace. Every experience is what you make of it and you could make the above your reality if you wished but the truth is there are challenges to living in any city, whether you are an expat or a "lifer"... I think the trick is to try and find the beauty in whatever place you live in. Anyway! I asked Rio's expats what they think the biggest misconceptions are about what it is like to live in Rio, and here is what they had to say:

On Safety:

• It is not as dangerous as everyone makes it out to be.
• one misconception I had was that there would be a lot of mosquitos and if you even go outside without repellent, you will certainly be bitten, get Dengue fever and die.
• that zona sul is as dangerous as zona norte
• We live in fear and have to duck the gunfire
• That it's nonstop crime and samba
• The violence. It generally occurs in the suburbs.
• That it's scary.
• That the crimes are every where and you have to be alert all the time
• Not everyone gets shot at/stabbed/robbed and left naked on the street if you follow common sense, avoid known bad areas, don't carry valuables or otherwise stand out from the crowd looking like a tourist.
• People think there is a criminal with a machine gun on every corner
• That the city is paralysed by violence. People were very concerned when I said we were moving to Rio. While I accept there is a problem, in Zona Sul life goes on as normal.
• Crime is over exagerated (mostly limited to the flavela's)
• That it is too dangerous to walk the city. One must be careful about the time and location of ones walk.
• It is constant danger.
• That it is so dangerous. I felt very safe.
• Crime exageration
• the real impact of the crime on the daily life... peoplethink you can not walk in the streets normally,not mentioning carring your handback with you
• The majority of violent crime is usually in the suburbs and favelas and drug related. Things do happen, but not like what people imagine. When my mother first came here, she was shocked to see people walking on the streets, because she assumed that we all lived in fortresses. Especially in Leblon, I feel extremely safe and comfortable to walk pretty much anywhere at anytime.
• That is is always sunny and that it is very dangerous. Neither, in my experience, is true!
• That it is dangerous all of the time. You can't let yourself be so frightened that you miss out on experiences.

On Development and Amenities:

• That it is a normal First-World city
• People think life here is more glamorous than what it really is. People think Rio is more "up-to-date".
• Glamorous and easy being an expat; beautiful weather all the time.
• That it is an internatonal city that caters well to tourists. It is neither of those things.

On the Cost of Living:

• People think it will be cheaper than back home -- not on the local economy!
• its cheap
• That it is cheap to live here
• that it is cheap
• That it is cheap and that it is an easy place to live.
• The large colonial property, surrounded by lush green tropical gardens are most likely not where you will be living. Chances are it will be an appartment.

On the Brazen Brazilian Beach Party Culture:

• That women sun bathe naked on the beach.
• Pictures make it look like all the people here do is go to the beach everyday. People back home think this is all fun and games.
• women go topless on the beach
• life here is a big party....itsn't really..
• Rio is not only carnival, samba, soccer and Copacabana where everybody is the same but it has great very strict classes and hierarchies (not only rich and poor).
• It's not all sun and sand. Living day to day can be a huge headache. Workmen don't turn up and generally processes "take time".
• That it would be all sun, beach and beautiful views.
• That the sun is always shining and all carneval dancers are naked.
• That we are on vacation all the time
• That it's one big party. NOT!
• People think women go topless on Ipanema beach.
• Women don't go around topless.
• party, party, party
• Party 24/7 or something along the lines of what you watch in "City of God".
• Most people think this is a big never ending party place and is nothing but fun day and night with no worries at all.

Other thoughts:

• There is more rain than you would ever expect.
• How wonderful it is.
  You need to learn to love this place, it does not just happen.
• A must to speak the language
• People work as hard as anywhere else in the world.
• I'm always suprised when people ask me how my Spanish is after living in Rio for three years. Really, my Spanish!

2009 Expat Survey Results: SURPRISE! What we didn't expect when we moved to Brazil.

I asked participants what surprised them most about moving to Brazil. The answers were quite varied and amusing, here they are, unedited of course, organized somewhat by categories. (Note: Don't shoot the messenger, peeps. I included ALL responses.)

The weather....

• Their love of sushi, the rain, security,
• Rain
• The number of days that it rains
• The rain.
• That it can be cold in Rio.
• Rain

The poverty...

• The Poverty
• The class differences are horrible
• The poverty
• The poverty
• The multitudes of Favelas intertwined in the city
• The amount of flavelas (sic) surrounding the city.
• The number of favelas

The language...

• The ugly bildings (sic) in Rio and that no one spoke English.
• How quickly I would pick up the language
• That noby (sic) speaks english.

The crime...

• The omnipresence of organized crime
• the talk about crime and how close but at the same time how distant it seems
• Much safer than the rumors suggest, more laid back than expected.
• How cosmopolitan life in Rio really is and how exagerated is the histeria (sic) over crime...
• I am surprised that I would adapt to the crime here and become blaise (sic) about sending my child to a school surrounded by an infamous favela.
• Poverty, favelas everywhere. I was shocked by the news (and even the movies) initially but they're not exactly a faithful portrayal of how the situation is really like.

The expense...

• The sheer size of the city and how much everything costs here.
• High cost of living!!!!!!!!!
• How expensive it is to live what I would call a normal middle-class life.
• how expensive the city can be; the contrast of rich and poor
• high prices (e.g. electonic goods and clothes)
• High cost of imported goods.
• How expensive everything is - food, clothing, utilities, etc.
• How expensive things can be and how hard the language barrier would be if you didn't speak Portuguese.
• The cost of living and the hotels that are obselete and filthy

The processes...

• How complicated everything is here
• That you needed a visa before your shipment could leave it's origin.
• having to pay all bills at the bank (back in 2000)

The beauty...

• How beautiful it was
• Nothing, really, except that the city was even more beautiful than I had expected!
• How good it feels!
• That it could still be so beautiful with all that grafitti everywhere.

The people...

• The their love for dogs and the amount of surgeries (boobs being the most obvious then the rest of the body)
• The people not being skinny and good-looking!
• the importance of status to the people
• The friendliness of cariocas. Friendly taxi drivers... where in the world do they exist but in Rio??
• The high number of dark skinned people, the Brazilian "jeitinho", the strong hierarchies
• All of the people I met. I even met other people my age from Ohio who were living in Rio as well.

The randomness...

• That moving with family/kids is so completely different than moving alone.
• Brazilians do not share Americans' love of sandwiches. A proper meal here *must* include rice and beans (vegetables, however, are mostly superfluous).
• Laundry
• The mold..
• the availability of brazilian quality german/austrian style wheat beer
• how much shopping can be done on the internet!
• climate, happy people, good food and athletic people
• Everything.

2009 Expat Survey Results: Activity Levels

So we covered food, and now that it's January, it's on everyone's mind... being active! I asked the survey participants a few questions about keeping active in Rio.

Specifically...

Do you participate in more physical activity and sport than you did before moving to Rio?

47% responded "YES"

12% responded "NO"

41% responded "Same as Before"

I then asked what the scale had to say.

The majority of respondents, 56%, report that they've maintained the same weight as they were before moving to Rio.

26% of respondents reported gaining weight, while 18% have lost weight since moving here.

My comment: there are a TON of not-so-healthy temptations here in Rio (mostly fried stuff and desserts) and it is all readily available on the street. That said, the food is generally not as processed here, and it is just as easy to eat healthy foods especially with the wide variety of amazing fruits and vegetables. Being active is easy here too, with so many places to walk and such a variety of fun activities. Also- obviously as I've disclosed a lot of my respondents are trailing spouses or expat wives - both of which have a lot of time to eat or exercise. Personally I do a lot of both!!! Mr. DRL definitely exercises more here in Brazil, but has apparently put on a few kilos since moving here...

2009 Expat Survey Results: The Best of Living in Rio

I thought I should put a feel-good post up for Christmas Day - I asked participants what the best thing about living in Rio is. My personal favorite things include the beauty, weather, the food, the healthcare, the fact that I can walk almost everywhere and that my friends live so close by, and that every day is a new, interesting adventure.

8 people declined to answer, but here's what the rest had to say:

• The BEACH (mentioned in 21 responses, longer responses featured below)
• The PEOPLE (mentioned in 11 responses)
• NANNY! (two responses)
• Relaxed quality of life
• The people, the weather, the views
• Weather and availablity of great, fresh food tie for the best thing
• The people I have met
• Its a big city and it is a colourful culture
• weather, beautiful vantage points, ease of getting taxis
• chic fashionable living - its cool man
• relaxed schedule
• Amazing and beautiful city, nice people.
• beach, sun, food, music, live in general, people
• beauty of city, social activities, availablity of travel to places close by
• I made some many friends from around the world. I also loved the ocean and mountains. I miss the beautiful landscapes everyday.
• The beaches, the sports facilities,
• The weather, the people, the beach, the lifestyle, the beauty, the help, the travel opportunities, the other expats.
• The people and the beach life
• it never gets REALLY cold
• My family here, the lifestyle, weather, geography, music, it's pretty liberal/open-minded, a happy place. I love that I can hear my neighbors when they are watching a jogo or when they are having parties...I love the energy here. You really feel and hear the excitement.
• The "help" in the house means I can really enjoy spending quality time with my children and husband
• Food, city itself, beach life, and more laid back living.
• Scenery and beauty of the city; beaches
• saving money and the fruit
• Adapting to the Carioca lifestyle...
• Outdoors all the time, beach is a way of life, going to the beach on Christmas day
• Warmth (I come from Aberdeen in Scotland) and swimming in the sea on an almost daily basis
• Home leave--just kidding. The Canasta Group.
• The Expat Community is so welcoming, find them and join things to make friends. But you can't beat living so close to the beach!
• Not living in the rat race of the good ole US of A - more relaxed
• Getting outside more or less easily every day, no car. Being next to the ocean, friendly people.
• the outdoor activities, the fruits and veggies!
• All of the fresh juices, along with a great variety of very tasty fruits and vegetables + many different options for physical and outside-activities
• the beautiful natural geography
• Buzios
• Acai
• Being outdoors so often and enjoying its beautiful setting. In an ironic way the chaos in Rio is also fantastic - rarely have I seen street parties be so much fun.
• Not having to work
• lanchonettes
• the culture
• everything is at your doorstep
• Being close to my husband's family
• The city is absolutely gorgeous. It has everything you can possibly want, beautiful beaches, great dining, all kinds of entertainment.
• Having an empregada, the fruit, the food.
• The pure geographic beauty of the city.
• Drivers, maids, capririnas on the mountain, Copacabana Palace, sitting on the beach with my girls, Canasta.....
• Going out very often!
• the people and the fruits

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Visits Home

'Tis the season...

I'm thoroughly enjoying my visit home - here is some good old Canadian Christmas scenery... from my mom's front porch. Merry Christmas Eve to those who celebrate it.

I asked the participants how often they return home to visit.

ONCE was the most popular answer, with 35%

30% make it home twice, 28% go three times.

5% make it home less than once a year while 2% to four or more times per year.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: The Brazilian Tube

When we moved to Brazil I was told time and again not to get caught up in a "novela" - Brazilian soap opera. I ignored this advice because I figured it would be good for my Portuguese to watch some local television, and proceeded to try to watch novelas, but could not find one that caught my interest. Maybe I should try again - you can get some of them on DVD!

I asked participants if they watch Brazilian television programs. 30% said they did, and I asked them to specify what they watch, here are the responses.

• TV Brasil, TV Cultura
• Faustão - of course!!
• Local and national news, some novelas.
• Infrequently...closer to NO! lol
• Noticias, Filmes
• occasionally watch Globo (literally watch the pictures!)as I don't understand yet.
• fantástico, gnt programming
• News
• Globo when unavoidable, news on Record
• Jornal das Dez
• Anything on GNT, canal 40 (news) canal 19 (mostly jogos or news)
• Irritando Fernanda Young, Os Normais
• novelas occasionaly, jornal nacional
• rede record

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Help Around the House

Most of the participants have help around the house. A mere 7% don't. 36% have help 5 or more days per week. Wow! It seems that most have help one (23%) or two (18%) days per week.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Portuguese

It had to come up at some point!

I asked the participants of the survey how their Portuguese is. About half of the respondents can have a small conversation in Portuguese and get by.

3% chose the "Fala Portuguese? What's that" option, while 27% consider themselves fluent.

22% made efforts to learn the language before relocating to Rio, while 5% have NEVER taken a formal Portuguese class.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Housing

I'm currently traveling, and did not get the blog as organized as I intended to before my big departure. Call me a slacker - it would be one of the nicer comments I've recently received on the blog... but that's another post. Today's is about HOUSING, and what my survey participants had to say about it...

I asked which "bairro" or neighbourhood the participants called home. 

Most participants are either in Ipanema, Leblon or Barra. In case you are wondering, the "other" category included Urca, Santa Teresa, Rio das Pedras, Niteroi, Catete, Miguel de periera, and Leme.

Then came the BIG question - how much??? As in, how much rent do you currently pay per month to live in Rio de Janeiro?

As you can see, the most common response is R$7,500 - R$10,000. I think it is also worth mentioning that more than 35% of the participants are paying R$10,000 or more. Considering today's exchange rate, well... Rio is certainly not cheap! Remember, 88% of the people who responded also said that their compensation package covers rent.

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Where the Expats Like to Eat

Let's start with something good.

I asked my respondants to name their favorite restaurant in Rio - here are the results. 

The following restaurants were mentioned multiple times:

Zuka (five times)
Aprazivel (four times)
Sushi Leblon (three times)
Via Sete (three times)
Gula Gula (three times)
La Ble Noir (three times)
Sawasdee (twice)
Esplanada (twice)
General Kilo Restaurants (twice)
Gero (twice)
Antiquarius (twice)
Celeiro (twice)
Fellini (twice)
Carlotta (twice)
Miam Miam (twice)
Porcao (twice)
Nam Thai (twice)

Other favorite expat restaurants in Rio mentioned in the survey (in alphabetical order)

Alessandra & Federico
Amir
Arabe
Azumi
Barra Grill
Bazzar
Belmonte
Botequim Informal
Cais do Oriente
Conversa Fiada
Copacabana Palace by the pool
Fasano
Focaccia
Fratelli's
Galitos
Galleria 1618
Garcia & Rodriguez
Giusseppe Grill
In House (Rio Design)
Itahy
Juice & Co
Le Pre-Catalan
Liquido
Majorica
Manekineko
Marius
Mini Mok
Mok Sushi
Nik Sushi
Olympe
Parque Lage Cafe
Rascal
Salitre
Santa Arte
Santa Teresa Hotel Restaurant
Satirycon
Terzetto Cafe
Zaza

2009 Rio Expat Survey Results: Part 1 - Demographics

Thank you so much to everyone who participated in my first survey project of Rio's expat community. I received 60 responses to the survey and am excited to share the results with you.

Before we delve into some of the details, let's discuss who these 60 people are from a demographic perspective.

• 75% of my respondants are female, 25% are male.
• 75% fit into the age category of 26-45 years old. 20% fall into the 46-55 age group.
• 84% are either married or common-law
• 69% live in either Ipanema or Leblon.

More results to follow throughout the month...