
This is part of a new series in which I am posting excerpts from reader emails and my responses in hopes of helping more people who may have the same questions or concerns.
I received an email from a Brazilian living in Canada recently:
Question:
I will be on my way to Rio, to visit family, next month. I'm going with my spouse ... and I am kind of freaking out. I have been here for so long, I am terrified of all the violence, and high rate of car accidents and things like that. It's all just so different here! I actually don't think twice about going out with my digital camera, iPod and cell phone... whereas I wouldn't dream of doing it in Brazil (granted I haven't been there in nearly 3 years... but still).
Now I am sure I am amping it all up... I did live there for 20 years and was never even mugged... but still! Heh. I was just wondering if you had any thoughts on that, as a foreigner in Rio. I can't talk to my relatives or friends about that as they just wouldn't understand why I'm so scared. So yeah...
My Response:
I just flew back to Rio from Canada myself. I understand how you feel, and had a lot of the same feelings myself coming back this time, especially with having a daughter now, but I think when you arrive you will feel okay. I understand not wanting to talk to your relatives/family about it as they could take it the wrong way. Just be sure to take precautions - and walk around like you own the place - I think body language is a huge thing! Also remember that much of the violence is segregated into the favelas, which is not the case withgang violence in other cities! You have to remember that things can happen no matter where you are in the world, so we always need to be careful but to try to live without too much fear. I hope this helps?
Posted at 11:44 AM in Back Home: The Ties that Bind, FAQ's, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Rio Tourists | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)
Just had to share this little story with you...
Many of my friends and acquaintances work for a company that I will only refer to as "The Firm".
In my opinion, The Firm controls a few too many details of their lives, mostly disguised as perks (mortgages, invasive medical exams, drivers who monitor and restrict their movements, safety training that scares the heck out of people, and rules rules rules). Don't get me wrong, some of these things are incredibly nice and convenient and I have certainly appreciated when I've benefited from my friends' situations, but the reality for them is that there are times when they come at a cost (mostly privacy).
The Firm has a policy for everything, and from what my friends tell me, there is very little deviation from the policies. Meaning, every situation is not handled individually, with a brain.
My example: a friend came to Rio to live in temporary housing (which is another story altogether... after living here much longer than a year she and her husband, daughter and large dog are still in cramped temporary furnished housing, simply because they were not initially intended to be here longer than a year... as per the Firm's policies, can't make an exception...) which meant she was not sending a shipment of furniture. Her family did, however, want to have bicycles in Rio. Shipments = expensive. Our friends suggested to the company that perhaps it would be more cost effective to just purchase them some bikes (which could then be company property, or whatever). Instead, the Firm shipped their three bikes in a container which cost $5,000.
I realize that to buy the family bikes could have set a precedent that could get out of control, but personally I think this is the kind of stuff that should make shareholders livid. I could give endless examples. Expats are NOT cheap.
Mr. DRL works for a small company and we are the only expats. There are benefits and drawbacks to this. The benefits are that the expat policy is basically nonexistant so we make it up as we go and as needs arise. The drawbacks are that there are very limited resources for us, but that has meant we've just had to get resourceful ourselves!
However, as I've mentioned once or twice before, one never knows quite what to expect in Rio. The views she has the opportunity to take in are not limited to these panoramic scenes.
One day, she was looking out the window towards the mountain and she saw a man. Er, maybe I should mention that he was NAKED. At the time, she thought he may have hung himself in fact, but it turned out he was just doing some sort of yoga pose or exercise.
Knowing that it would be difficult for people to picture this naked mountain man, she decided to document the experience.
I thought about blurrinng these photos in select places but then decided that it would be best to show the mountain man in his true form. You know, maintain some sort of "journalistic integrity". Consider this your warning that there is FULL FRONTAL male nudity below.
It wouldn't be the last time she saw the mountain man. He reappears every once in a while, showing off his moves (he exercises in the nude on the mountain). My friend who sees the mountain man speculates that he does have to pick and choose which times of year to appear, as he wouldn't want to get a, well, sunburn...
So after hearing about this mountain man for over a year we were all quite tickled to see that he'd made the paper:
The article calls him the hermit of the lake, claims he lives alone in a cave, climbs trees to pick fruit, and is disconnected when spoken to (talks about God and the Devil).
Posted at 08:49 AM in Borrowed Content, Exercise, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Only in Brazil..., Rio Neighbourhoods, Understanding Brazilians | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
I think I'm getting fairy accustomed to the expat life. If I seem particularly weary lately, keep in mind that I have not been home in a year, (going home for 4 days for a funeral does not count, in my books. I didn't even get to see my parents!) and have a new baby I want to share with my friends and family. Most expats I know here go home MUCH more frequently (4-5 times a year in many cases, often spending 2-3 months of the year back home).
Having many visitors has helped with the homesickness. As it is the people we miss, not the things. Well, mostly. There are a few exceptions, namely (this list can also be known as the "what DRL will be hitting up upon landing back home):
Posted at 02:34 PM in Back Home: The Ties that Bind, Food and Drink, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, What to Bring | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBack (0)
She has her dress picked out:
but will she get to wear it? (Dress is from Fabula - a children's boutique here in Rio).
Canadoca's aunt is getting married two weeks from today somewhere in Canada. Will we and the Canadoca be there to show off her mad air guitar skills (aided by mom)? Not sure. Why? No Brazilian passport yet.
To be fair, this should have been a fairly easy process. IF we had already received our Residency Cards, which we applied for over a year ago.
I was told by other gringoes to make an appointment at Shopping Leblon at the passport office and that from there on it would be quite simple and we'd have the passport within days. Our appointment was in mid-June.
We arrived at the appointment accompanied by an agent from the company my husband's firm employs to take care of passport and visa issues. When our name was called, we were told that since we didn't have our Residence Cards yet, we could not be issued a passport at that office and rather we would have to go to the Federal Police at the International Airport. This was frustrating for two reasons: 1) Mr. DRL took the day off work for this appointment, but more importantly, 2) Our agent should have realized that this was the case since they were involved in applying for our residency cards.
The next day, we headed to the international airport. A different agent met us there and asked us what we were there for (!! I am not even going to go there.... I am just not...) and basically stood around. Mr. DRL dealt directly with the officials, who told us that our presence wasn't really required, we could have motoboyed in some forms, and that they would need to launch an investigation into our daughter's birth since we don't have our residence cards yet. We were told that this would take about 30 days. Around this time the agency also admits that there was some sort of error or mix-up on their part with our application for residency cards. Strike three.
We are now applying for permanent citizenship based on the fact that we have a Brazilian child. Which will apparently take about another year, but allows us to work here, for any company, rather than being tied to the company because it holds our visa. Nice to have flexibility for sure.
However, currently we are waiting to hear if the signatures from FOUR doctors present in the delivery room are enough to prove that Canadoca is ours. I have heard horror stories of people having to undergo DNA testing in this scenario so we are hopeful that their word will suffice (I guess I should have opted for the birth video at the hospital!).
Clearly our agency dropped the ball. I just hope that it can be retrieved in time, so that we can attend Mr. DRL's sister's wedding, and so that he can be there when his family first sees Canadoca. (I'm going home once the passport is issued, regardless, but he is only going to go if he can attend the wedding).
Lessons learned:
1) If you are a foreigner having a child in Brazil, make EVERY effort to ensure you receive your residence card before the child is born. It will save you a lot of hassle.
2) Carefully check the reputation of any agency you entrust with these matters. This particular agency deals with many companies here and seems to do a great job with the actual workers' visas/passports, etc. but drops the ball when it comes to the dependants/families. I know another woman whose husband works for another company who was stuck in the US for WEEKS earlier this year because the same agency made mistakes with their family's visas.
After learning to play canasta with a group of expat ladies, I started noticing that there are people playing canasta everywhere in Rio. On the streets, it is not unusual to spot tables of four playing the game, or alternately, dominoes.
I then learned that Canasta does in fact have South American roots - it was invented in Uruguay. So now I feel like we're being "all cultural" when we attend... haha.
Canadoca has sort of become an unofficial Canasta Mascot (or Canascot...) for our group.
To read more about the history of Canasta, click here.
Posted at 01:22 AM in Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)
I'll soon get into the wild goose chase tale that outlines the adventure of getting Canadoca her Brazilian passport... until then, here are the details for obtaining a Canadian Passport/citizenship for children born to Canadian Citizens in Brazil.
The Application for Canadian Citizenship can be downloaded and printed out of the CIC website: www.cic.gc.ca form CIT0001.
Besides the application, we will:
- 02 photos (following sizes and instructions provided on the form);
- original birth certificate of the child in Portuguese;
- translation of the birth certificate by a Sworn Translator (available at www.atprio.com.br);
- original proof of Canadian citizenship (Birth Certificate or Canadian Citizenship Card) of the applicant (mother or father of the child);
- marriage certificate (not mandatory);
- original document of mother and father (passport or ID with picture and signature);
- processing fee R$140,00.
Please note that in order to apply for a Canadian Passport you need a proof of travel. No Canadian Passport will be issued without it.
For the passport the application can be downloaded and printed out of the Passport Canada website: www.passportcanada.gc.ca form PPTC 042 (For Children under 16 years of age English).
Please note that the back of one of the pictures need to be sign by a guarantor (refer to the instructions).
Form PPTC116 will be signed at the Consulate General, as the passport will be issued with a limited validity with no extension of validity.
Passport fees:
- R$37,00 for a 24 pages passport (for applicant under 3 years)
Passports are now issued in Canada in 15 working days, when all requirements are completed. Please note that fees are paid in Reais, in cash, to the Consular Department when the application and documents are submitted.
The Consular Department opening hours to the public are: from Monday to Thursday, from 08:30hs to 12:00hs and from 14:00hs to 17:30hs and Friday from 8:30hs to 14:00hs.
Consulate General of Canada/Consulat Général du Canada
Av. Atlântica, 1130 - 5th /ième floor/étage
22021-000 - RJ - Brazil/Brésil
Tel: (55 21) 2543-3004
Fax/Télec: (55 21) 2275-2195
www.brasil.gc.ca
My note: it was of particular interest to us that our daughter will not be a Canadian Citizen for at least a year (this is how long it takes to process), and the passport she will be given now is just temporary because she needs it to travel.
Posted at 12:26 PM in Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Having A Baby in Brazil | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)
Sending kids to English private school in Rio is NOT CHEAP. Most expats I know who have children include school fees in their compensation packages. See below, it's quite the perk...
Here is the link for the American School http://www.earj.com.br/
Escola Americano Tuition schedule for the upcoming school year:
2009-10 Academic Year
Monthly tuition payments due the 5th of each month, to be paid in 12 monthly installments:
3 day per week Toddler program: R$ 1.585,00
Pre-school half-day: R$ 2.171,00
Pre-school extended day: R$ 3.193,00
Lower School (Kindergarten to 5th Grade): R$ 3.942,00
Middle School Fees (Grades 6 – 8): R$ 4.281,00
Upper School Fees (Grades 9 – 12): R$ 4.873,00
Capital Fee: US$ 6,500.00
The Capital Fee, paid once for every child who is enrolled in 1st grade or above, is used to support investments in technology, facility renovations or other special projects.
Bus fees currently range from R$ 293,00 to R$ 408,00, depending on the route.
Lunch ticket: R$ 11,00 per day or R$10,00 for monthly contracts.
British School: http://www.britishschool.g12.br
2009 Monthly Fees
Pre-Nursery (Part-Time) R$ 1.963,00
Pre-Nursery (full time) & Nursery R$ 3.007,00
Reception to Class 4 R$ 2.759,00
Class 5 to Class 11 R$ 3.367.00
Entrance Fees
An Entrance Fee is charged at the time a child enters the school. Entrance Fees contribute to the school’s Development Fund which is maintained strictly for major development projects. Use of this fund is controlled by the Board of Governors. Entrance Fees are as follows:
Entrance Fees
(1st January – 31st December 2009)
First child R$ 16.747,00
Second child R$ 10.766,00
Third and subsequent children R$ 8.374,00
Part 8 of a series of questions I asked my guests after their Brazilian vacations.
Question 8: What, if anything, has changed the most about Mr. DRL & DRL since leaving Canada?
My Mom: They are more relaxed, even though I am sure Mr. DRL's work can be quite a challenge, they are enjoying the experience and will never be the same again!!! Also, a bit of a change with preparing for baby's arrival.
My Bridesmaid & Her Boyfriend: Um, well aside from them both speaking another language and learning how to live in a completely opposite society they are still the same people we all know and love!
My Mother-in-law: We love the self-confidence they have attained by having to deal with Latin energy and language issues. Such an interesting life they lead, when a breakfast meeting with a politician is just another day at the office. Again, DRL's Portuguese is amazing.
Engaged Couple Friends: About 3 kilos! :-) We were so excited to hear the news! (DRL Note: at the point of their visit, 3 kilos was the extent of the baby weight gain!)
My Dad: Hard to see in two weeks but hopefully they've realized how fortunate they are to be from a country like Canada.
Posted at 09:47 PM in Back Home: The Ties that Bind, Better in Brazil, Deep Thoughts, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Learning Brazilian Portuguese, Making the Big Move: What to Know Before You Come, My Guestbook/Visitor Reviews, The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
My mom and sister arrived today from Canada to visit us and meet our new daughter. (Let's get serious, there's just one reason there's here...)
Having a baby away from home was easier than I thought. I thought it would make me incredibly homesick. It hasn't. Maybe that's because I knew my mom & sister were coming?
The expat community in Rio have been fabulous to us. We've had dozens of meals delivered, many visits, and there is even a baby shower planned. It sure makes it easier to be away from family and old friends back home with this kind of support. Amazing.
My husband's coworkers have also been incredibly supportive and generous. Although one thing did really surprise me - as I've written about before, since arriving over a year ago there have been VERY FEW gestures or efforts made towards social contact with us by his coworkers. Ok, fine, fair enough. But then I have a baby and all of a sudden everyone makes us a priority. We had to pretend to check out of the hospital earlier than we did to prevent a bunch of his coworkers from coming to see us there. I found this very interesting - it seems to be a cultural difference. Back home, new hospital rules restrict anyone other than the baby's parents, siblings and grandparents from visiting the hospital unless they are a "birth coach" support person. Here, it's a free for all and everyone you've ever met shows up, it seems.
I was not exactly okay with having these people there for such intimate moments, considering that in the past they could not have even been bothered to ask me to lunch when I was new in town, but yet expected to come to the hospital to be among the first to see my new baby when we were exhausted and enjoying our own alone time. I didn't see any need for it! Yes I did have friends visit us in the hospital, but they were invited by us. And it was great to have them.
I definitely was a bit put off by this attitude by the coworkers. Even when Mr. DRL first shared the news of my pregnancy with the coworkers, a few offered tips/suggestions/to have their wife call me/get together. I was not interested. By that time I'd made my own friends and after having been completely ignored by all of these people when we were new in town I felt like - now that I'm pregnant I'm all of a sudden important? Strange. Where were you people when I needed to find out where to buy meat? haha!
All of that aside, baby's reception has been very positive here in Brazil, be it our friends, the coworkers, strangers on the street, you name it. Although everyone does think she is a boy (she does not have pierced ears).
I will write soon about my hospital experiences! Until then, I am hanging with baby, nana & auntie...
(It's a good thing I am the only one who can feed little baby DRL otherwise for the next couple weeks I doubt I'd even get to hold her!)
Posted at 10:54 PM in Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Having A Baby in Brazil | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)
This week marked one year since we'd moved into our apartment. While I am pretty happy with our place, this anniversary also brings to mind exactly how long it can take for things to be accomplished here in Rio.
For example, here is a list of items that were not "taken care of" when we moved in and we were assured would be fixed/provided immediately. Note that these do not include all of the things that went wrong after we moved in.
I'm sure that there were more things but I have probably surpressed the memories over the past year in order to survive. The moral of the story? If possible, do not take possession of your apartment until all of these little things are taken care of. OR, be prepared to take matters into your own hands. In our case, we finally just contracted the work out that had to be done, and took it off our rent.
Posted at 05:34 AM in Finding a Home in Rio, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Making the Big Move: What to Know Before You Come | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
Many friends and family back home have expressed concern about us having a baby "so far from home" - who will help us? Won't it be lonely? You won't have anyone checking in on you!
Here is the reality of the situation.
I am not going to name names but there are three ladies in particular who I have met down here, all fairly new-Gramma's, who keep me in line. As in, make me go to bed. Don't allow me to lift anything in their presence. Cook a lot of good food... Examples? Sure, I have examples.
Exhibit A) I was in Buzios for the weekend with some friends, and emailing back and forth with one of these friends who was back in the US at the time, about a few (okay a tonne of) items I had shipped to her home which she had so kindly offered to bring down (thanks again!!!). At some point in our texts back and forth she indicated that she had calculated the time difference and it was high time I should be in bed! It was about midnight. (As a sidenote, I must stay up most nights to even see my husband - he gets home at like 10:30 at night! I find it very funny slash depressing to be skyping with friends and family back home and realize that most people there arrive home before Mr. DRL does - and we are 3 or 4 hours ahead of these people, depending on which timezone they are in). The same woman asked me early on in my pregnancy if I was taking enough vitamins when I was tired one day :)
Exhibit B) I returned an email to another friend I'll call "L" at 10:25 pm a couple of weeks ago.
The response came within moments:
On 25-Mar-09, at 10:29 PM, L wrote:
What are you doing up this late? A pregnant woman needs her sleep!
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:34 PM
To: L
What, now you! (Harassing me about my bedtime!) haha I love it, so funny.
Minutes later, the actual topic of the email was answered, and I was left with this closing:
Go to bed!
Exhibit C) This one is the funniest and most persistent. Last week I hosted the weekly "Canasta" game. I was asked repeatedly if I was up to it in "my condition" and I honestly wonder if people were discouraged from going in fears of putting me out, as we had a small turnout! Anyway I was quite spoiled with help and now some items are at my house which we will need next week and I emailed this woman, the next hostess (K), saying I would bring these items by her place. Here is the response I received today (picture a very strong Southern accent, it makes it better):
From: K
Date: April 9, 2009 12:22
I can have my driver pick them up I DO NOT WANT YOU TO CARRY THEM AROUND!!!!! Do you understand that.
I also have received the following emails from "K"
From: K
Date: March 10, 2009
You be careful walking around and watch the area you are in. Got it!
From: K
Date: Feb 18, 2009
I will not be at the beach on Thursday, but if you go don't get to much sun! And don't get around L, don't want you to get the bug she has had.
I saved these emails in my baby emails folder and they totally crack me up every time.
So anyone who was worried shouldn't be - these ladies have it covered! And the concern is well-appreciated.
Posted at 04:34 AM in Children and Brazil, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Having A Baby in Brazil, The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBack (0)
HSBC surveys expats annually - I figure the best way to keep these surveys accurate is for us to all participate, click here to link to the survey.
Posted at 03:10 PM in Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
We expats rely heavily on those jet planes! A cute article on the actual travel part being the bane of an expat's existence can be found here.
Airline service just seems to be getting worse and worse. Although my recent trip home with Continental went very smoothly on the way there, the way back was a different story, with inept on-board servers, a piece of the plane falling off the ceiling and nearly hitting me in the head during take-off, topped off with the crew discussing recent plane crashes during a particularly turbulent takeoff. I exaggerate not. Which seems grossly unfair considering a regular passenger would probably be arrested for choosing to go on about that particular topic of conversation. At 27 weeks pregnant and exhausted, I didn't exactly have unlimited patience by the time the last incident occurred...although I certainly had more patience than this guy!
But really, what matters is that we get there in one piece, right? Which is why a law is being put forward to change the amount of time pilots and crews have to rest between flights. I'm all for pilots being well-rested. Read more here.
Worried about delays? This article details the destinations with the most delays. The quick version - airports in India, Casablanca, Orio al Serio Airport near Bergamo, Italy, New York LaGuardia, Newark Liberty International, Birmingham Airport in England, London's Luton and Heathrow Airports. Just FYI - Some South American airports were omitted from consideration for this survey ;)
Air Canada is notorious for being early to jump on the bandwagon for charging customers for items previously provided, but now they are apparently changing their tune, offering to pay you to get bumped from your flight, via Optiontown.com. Not surprisingly, it is anything but an easy quick process.
Ah, well. We just feel fortunate to get to go places, right? Especially if you're in North America, flights to Europe are cheaper than ever! New York tempts me more and more every day and the looks of this new $10 million Lufthansa Lounge in JFK airport just make for one more reason to go...
Finally, to close on the topic of air travel, has anyone watched Bravo's "First Class All the Way" ? Travel reality show?
Posted at 03:45 PM in Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Rio Tourists, Television, The Life of the Expat Wife, Travel | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)
I came across an article for expats moving to Canada the other day and it inspired me to do a bit of research about what frustrates expats about living in Canada, to put myself in their shoes. Which in this case means switching from Havaiana's
to Sorels...
This is the time of year when everyone in Canada seems to be complaining, because they are ready for winter to be over! (It's one facebook status whining about the weather after another).
I wanted to see if I would get as defensive about Canada's shortfalls as some Brazilians have about frustrations or just experiences that I have commented on. I started reading the blog So, Are You New Here, which is about an American girl living in Calgary. I like her observations and certainly can't say I've been offended.
It's true that I have not finished my research - I still need to read my Will Ferguson books that I brought back this summer to get the full picture...

I also purchased his hits How to Be a Canadian
and Beauty Tips from Moose Jaw ...
But the real dirt was found on the boards... On the British Expat Boards under the topic "What's Wrong With Canada?": (My comments are italicized in brackets).
Interesting, for sure.
From the very tongue-in-cheek blog "Stuff White People Like" - #75 Threatening to Move to Canada
So, what was the verdict? Well honestly the complaints were pretty boring, except for the short pants one. The rest of them - things I complained about myself when I lived there!
At the event we attended on Thursday night, we spoke at length with a woman from the Canadian Consulate. It turns out she will be the one we need to speak with once our baby is born, about getting our baby its Canadian citizenship and passport.
We had been planning to take the little one on a vacation to Canada once it turned 3 months old (the most widely-recommended youngest-safe-to-fly-a-newborn-14-hours age I can seem to find) to meet our families.
We assumed (why oh why would we? I know, I know) that we could initially just get our baby a Brazilian passport and a visa to enter Canada. We were wrong. We will need for the baby to already at that point carry both Brazilian and Canadian passports. Apparently Brazil will not let the baby out without a Brazilian, and Canada will not let the baby in without a Canadian. I specifically asked about the "visa" to visit Canada with option on a Brazilian passport but was assured we'd be denied.
Once the time comes I will of course keep you all posted on how long this in fact will actually take. I am keeping my fingers crossed that our child gets to meet its family before its first birthday ;)
Feedback: I am very interested in any of your comments as always, but specifically would find comments on experiences with first long-haul travel with babies helpful, as well as any experiences anyone might have with how long this passport issue has taken in the past if you've had to do it.
I have heard a bunch of different information on this topic from different people so I thought I'd throw it out there for discussion, help & advice... What is customary in Brazil when it comes to Christmas tipping or gifts?
For example for...
What I've heard:
See why I am confused?
I look forward to your comments and I will post again soon letting you know what we did with ours, just for interest's sake.
Posted at 09:16 AM in FAQ's, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Making the Big Move: What to Know Before You Come | Permalink | Comments (5) | TrackBack (0)
It never fails to amaze me how small the world is. And I am the type to get really excited about coincidences so I live for this stuff...
The first person I met in Rio was a fellow Canadian. One of a total of two I have met since moving here, I might add. She was an enormous help to me when I first moved here and I highly doubt I would have any of the social life I do now if I had not met her. I was put in touch with her before I moved down here. Her father and my best friend's father-in-law are close friends and when they learned of two Canadian girls headed for Rio, they figured we should meet.
The weird connections and coincidences don't end there. She married her husband on the same day I married mine, and her husband also bought her the same gift that my husband looked at to buy me as a wedding gift (weird!). They have sadly since relocated to Australia, but we do keep in touch, and I am still finding out how small a world it is - I recently found out she even knows my sister-in-law, back home. So strange!
Our visitors are always amazed at how in a city of several million, we see people we know just walking down the street here in Rio. It's not that we are winning any popularity contests, really, there are factors I think play into it, specifically:
I met a woman two weeks ago who spends half the year here in Rio and the other half in Connecticut. As she shared more of her story, I was reminded of an article I'd read in the New York Times - which I posted on the blog on May 31st - about a couple who wintered in Rio. Sure enough - same couple!
This one is pretty funny too... I met a girl in the past month or so who keeps cropping up everywhere I am - she left her umbrella at the same table we were sitting at at Parque Lage last weekend, we saw her at the Hippie Fair the next day, we joked we were following one another. Then I went to the doctor this week and mentioned the people who had referred me to her, she asked if I also knew this girl, as she'd been in the day before... so funny! Then yesterday I found out she really is following my lead - she is expecting too! Yay!
I always thought the best story of "small worlds" was from my fourth grade teacher, Mr. McCormick. He travelled to Japan and was on the subway, and realized he was back to back with a guy he went to highschool with back in Canada....
So let's hear it - in your experience, is it a small world after all??
Posted at 07:00 PM in Deep Thoughts, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (9) | TrackBack (0)
Because, of course, THAT is what this blog is actually about. Well, supposed to be. When I am not talking about myself, my baby, my family, my husband, international politics, or, er... food.
So today I went to the physiotherapist, which is actually always a lot of fun. It's more massage-like than the physio I've had back home, and the two physio's I go to both speak a smattering of English and Portuguese so it's kind of like a mini Portuguese lesson for me and mini English lesson for them.
They were telling me about places to buy baby things here in Rio, and we got talking about bedding. Specifically, sheets.
One of them knew what sheets were but the other thought we'd somehow got onto the topic of diapers. Why? Well in the cute little Portuguese accent, sheet, and sh*t pretty much sound the same! (Kind of like gringoes saying coco and coco...)
So then we got into this pronunciation demo where I tried to show them how to pronounce the difference, about 10 times, so then they each repeated me about 15 times, so you can really see how a bystander walking in might have thought someone really sh*t the bed...
Sheet! Sh*t! Sheet! SH#t!
It was quite amusing...
I strongly urge people to be careful if driving in Rio and relying on GPS. Ever seen the episode of the Office where Michael drives into a lake because the GPS tells him to? Well, let's just say you could get yourself into a lot more trouble than that in Rio.
Recently, three Norwegian men had their GPS set to "quickest route" on their way back to Rio from Buzios, the GPS led them into a favela, and their car was shot at, the driver was wounded but luckily survived. The incident is being blamed on a faulty GPS system but I think it probably genuinely did show them the "fastest route"... not that it was a safe one!
Incidentally I know some people who were making the drive to Buzios and accidentally had their GPS set to "no tolls" so it directed them to go all the way around the bay rather than taking the Niteroi bridge. They quickly realized this and saved themselves several hours of travel in the process! (The toll is definitely worth it!!)
Posted at 10:50 AM in Brazil in the International Media, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Rio Tourists, Travel: Tips, Web/Tech | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)
I think my in-laws had trouble believing us when we told them how difficult it can be to get even the simplest things accomplished here in Brazil. Luckily for me, I think they gained a bit of appreciation for the situation after this week!
About a month ago I purchased a new air conditioner unit for the master bedroom. The A/C we had in the bedroom was turbo powered and missing the switches which allowed it to be set anywhere in between off and full wind ahead. This led to many sleepless nights where we were either roasting, freezing, or getting up every half hour to turn the unit off or on. Also led to me waking up with windswept hair on more than one occasion...
The plan was to move this turbo unit into one of our guestrooms which did not have a/c, and put the new one in our room.
After several calls and attempts to get someone in to install the new unit and re-install the old one, and time after time having no one show up (!!!AUGHHHH!!! Will I EVER get used to this?) again on Tuesday, when my housekeeper's son, a plumber, was here doing some odd jobs, I figured, what the heck why not ask if he wants to install the a/c's?
Of course he wanted to.
So he starts by ripping apart the ac spots in the walls in both rooms, during which process he broke a pretty little towel hook that perfectly matched everything in the guestroom.... (no big deal, I tell myself, thinking of the uninterrupted sleep that will soon be mine). So we have two rooms without a/c installed, but the big square holes for the units exposed. He then realized he did not have the tools to complete the job that day. I still do not understand this - how does one rip everything apart and then realize something like this.... anyway...at this point my house was a disaster with shreds of packing material, styrofoam packing, sawdust everywhere but he managed to try and tidy up his mess and get the holes covered for the night with a promise to return to finish the job the next day.
The next day he shows up (!!) and installs both units, seals them in, paints around them, I am thoroughly excited. While he is doing some other little projects I found for him, I happen to go into my bedroom to test out the new a/c unit. Plugged it in, and went to turn it on and nothing happens. I assume that he must have been clever and flipped the breaker as to not electrocute himself, and ask him about this and tell him that the unit was not working. He then comes in and spends at least an hour trying to figure it out, flipped the breakers, tinkered with the outlet, the whole bit. He THEN informs me that he has of course done everything right, but the air conditioner unit is flawed and needs to be returned to the store.
I am flabbergasted.
He shrugs, says that this happens all the time.
Um, if this happens all the time, then why did you not test it before installing it and painting around it and sealing it in and everything???
I pay him and send him along his way.
ANYWAY.
I call my husband and say that I am FINISHED dealing with this A/C unit and it's now in his hands. He tells me not to worry about it, is sympathetic for my two days just this week I'll never get back that I spent trying to fix this issue (not to mention several others when people didn't show up before!), comes home from work, flips the breaker, turns the A/C on, and finds that it works just fine.
This is a topic I hate to generalize on because everyone's experiences are obviously different. A person who has had a horrible experience in Brazil will generalize differently than I will. So I will stick to my stories and would like to hear yours too.
First of all, I think I have been treated differently in Rio than I have in other parts of Brazil. In Rio, in our neighbourhood, I think I have it pretty good. I don't feel as "harrassed" on a regular basis as I have in other parts of the world (such as Mexico, etc.), and remember, I am the girl who wanders several kilometers on foot every day by herself (if ever there were an opportunity for harrassment).
I am not saying that men do not show their approval for one's appearance here. They are not shy. They do make comments, stare (mostly at your butt rather than your chest, though, which is different than North America!) and some do this hissing thing that kind of freaks me out. They hiss in the way that people sometimes do to get a neighbour's irritating cat out of their yard, and really put their whole body into it. After 8 months here, it is still very foreign to me, I find it almost scary. But the hissers are not as common in this area (Leblon) - however whenever I go to Centro to the markets I seem to get hissed at a lot more.
Men on the street often compliment me in English - ie) "beautiful" - in these cases I get the feeling this might be one of their only English words. I have light colored hazel-green eyes which often are commented on in Brazil (much more than back home, where my eye color is more common).
I will note as well that the first day my friend J & I got our bikes, as we cruised down Ipanema beach on them we were catcalled more than we ever were walking, maybe men find women more approachable when they are on a bike and "far away" or just don't want to scare you when you are walking right by them?
I would like to mention that in all my time in Rio, I have only been groped by a stranger on the street once, walking along the sidewalk on the beach in Ipanema, he was a vendor. Luckily I was not alone, I think it would have been much scarier! And really, since that is the worst thing that's really happened to me, I feel pretty lucky. That could have happened anywhere!
I have read in guidebooks that women should not feel strange about eating out alone in Rio, that it would be treated as completely normal - I agree with this. I feel more comfortable doing this here than I do at home.
When shopping - particularly for big ticket items - I find it handy to throw on a ring on my ring finger. (I do not normally wear a ring at all here, as I don't really have one I like to wear, mine are back home in Canada in safety deposit). I found that I was given much more attention and help at the stores when I was wearing it vs. not. This was certainly no scientific experiment but I found it to be pretty consistent.
Most of these examples apply to how I am treated when I am alone in Rio (which admittedly is most of the time!), however, when my husband is around and we are out & about, I do notice that he becomes the main focus of the attention of others. When shopping for furniture with him (one store, after I had spent several weeks scouting things out alone!) the sales person refused to make eye contact with me, answer my questions or even address me. Big mistake, buddy. Needless to say, we did not buy anything there. I have also posted in the past about stories about people I know & their drivers, etc. (The husband rules the roost and is the big "chefe" as far as staff is concerned...)
A year and a half ago we were in Salvador at the Sofitel for a week while Mr. DRL was working. I was on my own at the hotel during the day, and as it's not really in an area one can wander around in, I was kind of trapped there. Although the two of us had great service anytime we went anywhere in the hotel together, once he was gone for the day it was as though I was invisible. It would usually take 4 or 5 attempts to be served for lunch. It was terrible. I noticed in general while in Bahia, that women really seemed to take a backseat to the men compared to in Rio or Sao Paulo, when it came to service in restaurants (I was always poured wine last, when at a table of all men!).
Although Brazil is known as a macho society, and in many ways it is, happily I don't feel it really affects me on a daily basis.
Living abroad has changed my view of what it means to accomplish, well, just about anything. In my old life, I'd find a sense of accomplishment in being part of a team and accomplishing something like... keeping a company from going bankrupt, landing a stellar new client, hosting a fantastic event, landing a fantastic meeting for a client, or not getting an investment banker to slam the phone down in my ear...
Note: yeah I am pretty glad I no longer work in finance these days... just for the record.
On Friday, I picked our vehicle up from the car dealership where it had been getting a tune-up, drove it to sendas, parked in the parking lot, went in and found turkeys for my Thanksgiving dinner I hosted last night, and drove home - on a Friday night in Rio - in the dark - yes it was my first driving experience in Brazil and therefore why this seemingly mundane event is garnering a blog post of its own...
I felt VICTORIOUS after this event! In fact, I called some of my family in Canada, who were ALL together for Thanksgiving, and shared my accomplishment and joy with them. (And and and...! I found TURKEYS! TWO of them!! And... I saw someone I knew at the store!)
After that conversation, I imagine that much of the turkey dinner conversation may have been speculation about what kind of drugs we are on down in Brazil... The excitement about seeing someone I knew at the store would have really thrown them for a loop as some of them live in a small town where it's impossible to go buy a litre of milk without having about 9 conversations with people you know who you've run into.
Moving to a foreign country is almost like being a baby again or a small child. Confusing as hell, and every milestone feels as though it needs to be photographed and written down in the baby book blog. Like... learning to say hi, first full sentence spoken, first full conversation in Portuguese without having to scrunch face to convey confusion, where to buy meat that doesn't smell funny, where to find x,y,& z...
There are so many firsts, and each of them feels like a major accomplishment even though they are all small things we took for granted back home. Thank goodness there are others to share these events with because back home, they are like, yes, kind of like I've seen you do it 1,000 other times?
The reason we went to Iguazu was to pick up our 5 year visa's so that we can legally be in Brazil and so that Mr. DRL can legally work here (yay!) and start paying taxes in Brazil (boo!).
Our agent picked us up at the airport and took us to the hotel in Argentina. When crossing the border we did not need to get out of the car nor did anyone come to the car to ensure we were in fact the people on our passports... the agent then asked us to fill out some paperwork that looked suspiciously like preliminary paperwork for a visa application. Despite the fact that our visa application has been in the works since last November and we have had to prove Mr. DRL's expertise and jump through various hoops already, we thought this could be worrisome yet we decided not to let it rattle us. We filled out the paperwork the next morning at the consulate, where exactly no one spoke with us, then our agent told us we could leave and he would bring our passports to us at the hotel with the visas in them later that day. Okay by us!
When it came time to cross the Brazilian-Argentinian border again the following day, again the agent went to the counter and left us in the car. This time, a fellow came about three steps out of the office to ensure there were in fact two people sitting in the car, but certainly could not have proven our identities from the distance at which he stood.
After jumping through so many hoops and waiting for such a long time it seems laughable to me that we pretty much could have sent stand-ins to pick up our visa's for us. But I will not complain about something in Brazil being "too easy!" I'll just take it.
I must also comment on the number of cars being waved through the border without even stopping to check in. It was disturbing particularly when a person considers the amount of illegal arms trading that goes on between South American countries.
Many foreigners living in Rio brought their pets from home. This process is I would argue more complicated than bringing a child. It is expensive, time consuming and emotional especially considering people often have to wait to bring their pets down which means a separation from them for a time, or even just sedating the pet for the flight, and apparently not all flights will bring animals down. Watching a number of dogs run wild through the Argentinian - Brazilian border (right at the office!) made me think of these people and their struggles to bring their pets down...
All observations, hoop jumping and surprises aside, we are now legally in Brazil which is a good feeling!
This concludes my little series on Iguazu/Iguassu - if you have any questions feel free to email me or ask in the comment fields.
So earlier this week Mr. DRL asked me to get our cable up and running. When we first got into our place we had a bundle deal (read: cable hooked up immediately, phone after about 2 weeks, internet after a whopping MONTH. Um, opposite order would have been JUSTFINE with me!) but ended up getting really ripped off on the phone part and weren't happy with the internet so we switched companies. But apparently were keeping the cable (and continued to be billed for it) but I guess it didn't work. I wouldn't really know. (I actually do not even know how to turn on our TV... just ask the cable guy...)
So the cable guy comes, I let him in, try to show him around our entertainment system... he gets it all up and running in no time flat and says he didn't see any problems with it. (Which irritates Mr. DRL who I console by saying - they must have flicked a switch at the head office and turned our cable back on or something!) So then I go to let the fellow out of the building as the porteria was on his lunch break, and I cannot for the life of me get the door unlocked from the inside to let him out. The cable guy clearly thinks I am nuts. I end up having to go upstairs and get my remote opener for the big garage door to let him out through there. When I asked the porteria about it later he said he had oiled the locks after his lunch break... I see.
So basically guy comes to our house to fix the cable which apparently functioned just fine on its own and then gets locked in the building because the crazy Gringa can't get the door unlocked.
What must he make of this...
Posted at 08:48 AM in Deep Thoughts, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Learning Brazilian Portuguese, The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
For a look at the flip side... the blog of an "expat in Canada" - personally I am calling this research/preparing myself for "repatriation" when I visit home later this summer!
Also - the Canadian Expat Network (an online community for Canadian expats) has announced a "Canada Day Expat Giveaway" - all you have to do to enter is sign up for the network (prizes include flights from Air Canada, gift certificates from NHL, Lululemon, The Bay, Indigo Books, etc.) Click here to sign up! Of course you need to enter before Canada Day, July 1st.
Posted at 09:02 AM in Back Home: The Ties that Bind, Borrowed Content, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
Life in a Foreign Country...
"...is a dance of submission and resistance. Self-knowledge comes in small repeated shocks as you find yourself giving in easily, with a struggle, or not at all." -Rhiannon Paine
Posted at 08:22 AM in Deep Thoughts, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
a fantastic book. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is looking into doing a stint as an expat slash foreigner working abroad. It's called "As the Romans Do" by Alan Epstein, it's about an American family who relocates to Rome. I haven't been to Rome but after reading this book (well, two thirds of it so far, to be accurate), I am struck by the number of similarities to Rio. Such as the cafe culture, the way laundry is done, children are treated, meals are eaten, meetings are held... So, basically I think it would be a good read for someone moving here! Or for anyone for that matter, as it is very well written.
What’s rude at home is apparently a-ok here (and in some cases vice versa)... we've already covered the "a-ok" hand symbol - considered rude here...
Some of my other observations:
Things considered very rude in Brazil:
Things not considered rude in Brazil (in fact you see these things all the time):
Business/Cultural Differences and "Good to Know's"
Other Differences:
Any additions in the comments section are appreciated as always!
Posted at 11:38 AM in FAQ's, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Only in Brazil..., Rio Tourists, Tools You'll Use | Permalink | Comments (8) | TrackBack (0)
Although if you read my previous post about the maids and how demanding they are when it comes to cleaning products (they sure seem to have their favorites!), believe it or not I do sympathize with them. Although I am happy that we are "being good citizens" and employing many people, and supporting the Brazilian economy while we are here, I tend to feel guilty when other people are doing things for me, it's taking some time to get used to this.
I feel guilty for having a driver or chauffeur wait while I run errands. This is one of the many things I wonder if I will ever get used to - and one of even more things I don't want to get used to because what kind of person will that make me, I wonder?
Then I think about the alternative for these people... jobs can be hard to find.
You don't understand gratitude until you live in a developing country, at least I don't think I fully did.
Locals do not seem to have the same attitude towards the help. I have encountered many who are rude publicly to the help, and to service people in general. Of course, this does happen in North America as well. But here it seems borderline abusive. There aren't many thank you's either.
I think it's fear. Fear of acknowledging their presence, fear of becoming them by acknowledging their existance as a human being.
When we were in the aparthotel, we had daily maid service. Every day when she would come, I would wonder why I was so lucky to have the life I do. And feel guilty for wondering if she took my lululemon capri's that mysteriously went missing.
I often wonder what if I had been born elsewhere, like here in Rio for example. I think some of the locals are acutely aware of how lucky they are too but instead of expressing it as gratitude choose to separate themselves from it by trying to elevate themselves to a higher level above these people in every way.
Difficult for me is finding a balance between enjoying this time and everything (the perks) that come with it and not being consumed by the guilt I feel for it when constantly faced with those much less fortunate. I also don't want to turn my back on them, I want to help and I intend to help. Where to start is the question. I am alternately tempted to buy expensive beautiful furnishings for the house and to not buy anything and fill the house instead with poor little brazilians to take care of while we're here.
To live the glamorous Rio life, and to fully enjoy it one must first acquire the skill to at all times turn a blind eye. At least, if one has a conscience to begin with.
Other notes on this subject - drivers are not considered to be a luxury. Some of them even seems scared: eager to help but remind me a little of (stock) broker's secretaries who are scared there is to much mayo on their asshole boss' sandwich and he is about to throw it in her face one piece of bread at a time in a fit of rage. They seem scared to make a mistake (it is easy to take a wrong turn in Rio, let's face it) and meek, used to being screamed at or something. I feel sorry for them!
And there does not seem to be an expected start-end time. The day I bought appliances I was acutely aware of the effect that the ungodly length of time it took might have on my driver - was he missing his daughter's ballet recital so I could get that fridge I really wanted? I'll never know.
Then you see the Brazilionaires as I've taken to calling them, luxury penthouse appartments, helicopters, live-in help galore. I saw a bus of kids the other day, a luxury bus in fact with individual tv's, curtains, blankets, the works. The kids could not have been more than 7 yrs old each and came about halfway up the seat. The bus was behind a city bus so crammed that people were pretty much smooshed against the glass of the windows.
So despite my frustration with the apparently still-growing mountain of cleaning products (many many more than I have ever owned before, I tell ya!) I am still grateful for the help and can't imagine treating them the way they are apparently accustomed to.
Posted at 11:26 PM in Brazilian Film, Footprint of the Foreigner Abroad, Only in Brazil..., The Life of the Expat Wife | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)
I had two interesting experiences at Tok & Stok this week which both made me think a lot about how we as foreigners living abroad are perceived. (I now much prefer the term foreigner living abroad than expat. Expat sounds so smug to me for some reason. Plus I am still proudly Canadian although I do not currently reside there). Seeing how Brazilians perceive foreigners living here it makes me think a lot about my own behavior and what kind of footprint we want to leave here in Brazil, and what kind of ambassadors we want to be. I also have commented on this topic before on other blogs such as Emily & Eric's Adventures, see an excerpt below:
I read part of the comments on the blog and found them to be heartwarming, particularly those about your husband's contributions to the Brazilian economy, bringing his expertise here. It is refreshing to see such a positive attitude towards what foreigners can bring to Brazil rather than the assumption that we are all just here to "take"... All we can do is hope we can all leave this country a little bit better than the way we found it, as we would hope to in any community we were part of.
-Back to Tok & Stok.
Both incidents involved issues with payments (which is apparently very common there and seems to be happening to everyone, they really really need to do something about it but that is besides the point...)
With the first incident, I had a very large order and my credit card declined (I just phoned and answered a few questions and it subsequently went through). The fellow I was dealing with spoke very little English, I explained to him - or was trying to - that it was a foreign credit card and so that was the problem and was about ask him to try it again in a minute, and joked and said I was a gringo - when he cut me off and said "I know, I know, you have lots of money." dismissively as though he hears this every day. And maybe he does, given the fact the more time I shop in Barra the more English I hear (I checked out WalMart yesterday, that was interesting!) but I could not help but wonder who these gringoes are who say things like this to people??
I did not have the heart to tell him that if I had what I would call "lots of money" I would NOT be shopping at Tok & Stok (the slightly upscale version of Ikea...)!
The second incident happened last night (again at Tok & Stok) where I had yet another large order and a driver waiting, and the credit card machines were not working. They said they could only take cash or a cheque, I happened to have one of my husband's signed cheques with me, so thought perfect, no problem! They would not accept it even if we got signed permission, etc. etc. no exceptions even though their machines were down. They told me to come back tomorrow. I said I could not, as Tok & Stok is delivering furniture to my house and won't tell me what time they are coming, so I can't come back tomorrow, I can't really leave the house! (Plus in an effort to create some efficiency, since I knew I'd basically have to hang here all day, I scheduled in other tradespeople and appointments too). They brought out a girl who spoke English who incredulously asked me, "Well don't you have people to take care of these things for you?"
Ummmm... no?
Are we as foreigners seen as spoiled rotten helpless people with endless cash, help and mega-attitudes (even bragging about endless cash)... ?
Some people come to a foreign country to learn more about the culture and experience something new and exciting. Yes, some come solely for the financial upside. I think doing anything solely for the financial upside is crazy! The business case for coming is made based upon bringing knowledge and expertise not currently available in-country. In other words, helping a country to become better or do things more efficiently.
But the little things matter too and it matters to me immensely what kind of footprint I leave behind in Brazil, as it does in any community I am a part of. Feedback is a gift that makes us see our actions in ways we do not have the capacity for ourselves.
I don't have any easy answers as to how to make me being here easier on the Brazilians or how to make Brazil a better place. But I am determined to not be "that gringo!"
Brazilians?
How do you perceive foreigners living in Brazil? What makes them more annoying or less annoying?
Foreigners living abroad?
What do you do to make your footprint a "positive one" in your new country?

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